which West system epoxy?

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Dec 4, 2001
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I'm just about out of Acraglass and thinking of going with West Systems, but not sure which is best, or if I should just get more Acraglass?

Suggestions? Thanks
 
I've been reading up on it and it seems the consensus is that G flex is the way to go.
 
I've been using West System for over a decade. I always use the 105 resin and different hardeners. The volume lets me use if for all sorts of projects - including knives.
 
105/205 - is pretty fast and I have never had an issue with it. Used mainly for hidden tangs
105/207 - is what I use for coating wraps as it absorbs really well and has UV inhibitors.
G-Flex - I have been using this for scales. I used to use the 205 and it worked well but the claim of increased shock resistance sold me.
 
So far I've been using acraglass for everything from hidden tangs to full tangs and even some cord wraps. What is the closest system to standard acraglass? I like the idea of different epoxies for different jobs, but lack of sleep has me brain fried rite now.

Thanks
 
So far I've been using acraglass for everything from hidden tangs to full tangs and even some cord wraps. What is the closest system to standard acraglass? I like the idea of different epoxies for different jobs, but lack of sleep has me brain fried rite now.

Thanks
I switched from acraglass to G-flex and found it to be very similar. The G-flex might be a smidgen thinner, but I've found little difference in usability. Any of the 105 system would work, but g-flex is probably better. If you're doing any color sensitive cord wraps, maybe the 105 with 207 hardener? I haven't tried it, but I know some light colored cords discolor, and this may be a good work around. Just stay away from the 209 hardener. I've used it on boat projects where it was specified by the manufacturer. It's a nuisance because of how thin it is and how agonizingly slow it cures.
Just my opinion - it's worth exactly what you paid for it.
 
Good info, thanks. I'll give the G flex a try and see. I'm not big on cord wraps, but when using acraglass it does darken it somewhat, to the point that unless your in strong sun olive drab looks black.
 
When it comes to wraps.... If it darkens with water, it'll darken with even the clearest of epoxy. 207, is their "special coating" and is made for transparent, colour sensitive applications. As it ages in the container, it does take on a yellow hue. 205, gets a deep amber colour as it ages.

On a side note, 207 makes a very convincing fake dog pee puddle if you pour it out on waxed paper and let it cure. Just ask my wife!
 
G Flex I'm always impressed at the tiny cracks it will flow into before it sets. Used up one Acra Glass kit and felt it was too hard. It does have "glass" in the name.
 
For adhesives uses, I use 105 and switched from 205 to 206 hardener to give me a bit more cure time to play with. I also use the colloidal silica filler as it was recommended to me by the late John White who was a boat builder before he got into knives. I may be wrong, but my understanding is that G Flex is a "premix" of resin, hardener and filler primarily designed as a strong adhesive used to hold stuff together while the slower curing resins, well, cure.
 
If you buy G-Flex, make sure that you don't get the 5 minute unless you REALLY want 5 minute epoxy because they are not exaggerating about the set time on that stuff!! :eek:
 
IMHO, all knife resins should be longer than 1 hour set time. I prefer the 24 hour type. 5 minute epoxy is for emergency repairs and for FIF shows. IT is weaker, and is too fast for most knife applications if you want things right.
 
There is G-flex and there is G5.... don't use G5 unless you are makings kid's toys.
 
We used aces glas and G/flex. Use mostly g/flex now. Have tested it to destruction several times and it amazes me what it will take. After the glue wars kick everybody went to hp120 for a while but I don't see near as many people using it now.
 
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