White Lightning v Tuff-Glide v ???

[sentry]

Marion and All,

Be very careful when using Naval Jelly or anything like it. It is very effective at removing all types of finishes including the rusted kind. If you can test it on a small hidden area before going to town with it on your favorite blades, that is advised. Naval Jelly will have the effect of deep cleaning the metal and uncoated metal will look brighter after treating it with Naval Jelly. Basically Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid.

Rust really is a cancer and every trace of it needs to be removed to fully prevent its return. But just as in surgery, the cure can sometimes kill the patient.

If your knife has a special finish etc., the best bet is to contact the maker and ask for their advice. I recently spoke with a knife collector in Hawaii who is faced with restoring his entire collection (3000+ pieces) because of rust. He is contacting each one of the makers to get their input on the best method to restore the finishes.

Perhaps I will see some of you at Blade West http://www.krause.com/shows/bladewest/bladewest.html



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Mark Mrozek, President
Sentry Solutions Ltd.
www.sentrysolutions.com

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Mark :

If you did not remove rust using something like Naval Jelly, then you did not remove all the rust.

The only reason to use an acid to remove rust on a knife is if you have deep pitting. Otherwise a scotchbrite pad will remove it much quicker. It literally only takes about 10-15 seconds. You do it the same time you are cleaning the blade. If there are deep pits then the pad just skims over the top and will not remove the rust.

Now this method will not remove the black iron oxide, but that is not a volume enlarging oxidation so there is no reason to remove it. In fact it actually forms a barrier which will prevent the orange iron oxide from forming. Most times when you clean a blade in this manner you will see litle black spots remaining. There is no reason to remove these aside from the cosmetic.

However if you must use an acid to etch the surface of a knife before applying Marine Tuf-Cloth to work why isn't it mentioned on the package, and if it isn't why are you bring it up? This is a red herring of an argument in any case as some of the blades I tried the above with were pretty much NIB status with no rust on them at all.

-Cliff

[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 08-30-2000).]

 

[Gollnick]

The removeal of red/orange rust, iron oxide, can often be accellerated with WD40. Just apply the WD40 liberally and allow it to sit for a few minutes. Then wipe with a cloth or Scotchbrite pad or very fine steel wool. If it's a collectible knife, though, do not use any scotchbrite or steel wool. I've found that a cheap paper towel is often abrasive enough to remove rust loosened with WD40 without any damage. It often takes many cycles of applying WD40, waiting, wiping, etc., etc., to get rust off without damage to the blade.

I've also had great results with a bathroom cleaner product called CLR (which stands for Calcium, Lime, and Rust remover). Get it at the grocery store. Be careful, though, as this is strong stuff and will attack many materials found on knives. I've actually used Q-tips to just dab it on the rust very carefully.

If you want to remove it, black oxidation is removed by a bathroom cleaner available at grocery stores called Mary Ann's Wow. Again, this is a very strong product. Be very careful and wear gloves as it will attack your skin.

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Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.balisongcollector.com

 

[jayharley]

I just began using both Tuf Glide and Tuf Cloth. I have never used White Lightning. Prior to this I have just always used WD40. Unless I am missing some hidden special benefit to the Tuf Glide / Tuf Cloth product, I find WD40 works just as well.

In fact, my "instructions" and info that came with my Chris Reeve Shadow III recommends WD40 as one of the rust preventatives to use.

Anyone else have the same findings?