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nevermind
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Whittler pattern
- Thread starter Rusty McDonald
- Start date
yablanowitz
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I don't have an 80 pattern, but I do have a 55. These pictures are reduced to about a fourth of the original size when I upload them to Photobucket. I can e-mail the originals if more detail will help.
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Ahh ok thanks alot. I have a couple to finish up now but this will be the next one I start.
Im guessing that the Main blade is 1/8" and the others are close to 1/16"?
Im guessing that the Main blade is 1/8" and the others are close to 1/16"?
yablanowitz
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A bit thicker than that. The main blade measures 0.146" at the tang, the smaller blades measure 0.058" each with a 0.032" thick catch bit in between them. The springs each measure 0.074" thick and appear to be untapered as nearly as I can tell without disassembling the knife.
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Hmm may have to use some of the D2 I've been saving up. 5/32" for the main and 3/32" for the smaller blades.
yablanowitz
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You are headed for different territory there.I have a Hen and Rooster with tapered springs that uses 0.115" main and 0.058" small blades if you want pictures of it. The tapered contruction looks to me like it would be a royal pain for a first three-blade, though.
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Im up for any and all info on this type/pattern, I just like the shape of the case. I like going down the hard road lol. Ive gotten good at the two blade knives that Ive been making so now I want a challenge to keep me intrested. Why take the easy road when the hard road is sooo much fun.
The Case Seahorse construction is the easiest (most straightforward anyway) construction possible for a true three blade whittler. Well, that's not quite true - you could omit the floating catch bit and have the small blade tangs in contact with each other. This was done on the old original true splitspring whittlers (which used a single wide spring which was split partway to form the two springs for the secondary blades) -- seemed to work out ok really. I have one and the small blades open and close quite nicely with plenty of snap (a very old Ashton Jackson wharncliffe - someday when I have a working scanner I'll put it up, sigh).
Actually Rusty, as a nearly Journeyman smith, you just might want to give one of the old true splitsprings a try, since you seem to want a challenge. Here's a WS Horvath Sheffield (I think - it was very difficult to read) whittler - neat pattern also (posted this before but it was a while back and the images are gone):
You could be the first to try this in almost 150 years (AFAIK anyway). (We need a tempting devil smilie for this.)
So you have several possible whittler constructions: 1) the old true splitspring - one wide untapered spring hot split into two springs at one end; 2) two straight untapered springs with a floating catch bit between the secondary blades (note: both 1&2 have similar weaknesses -- for example, you have to have a fairly short main blade relative to the frame length in both designs because there's little or no room between the secondaries); 3) same as 2, but with both springs tapered on the outside to leave them thicker on the secondary blade end - giving much more latitude to secondary blade thickness - and allowing the floating catch bit to also be thicker (which now needs to be a bit wedge shaped), which then allows the primary blade to be longer since there's more space between the secondary blades - but now you get into the more complex full tapered whittler construction; and 4) is what most call a "splitspring" whittler today - springs are not tapered, but the divider between the secondary blades is a tapered, wedge shaped center divider/liner that goes between the springs (rather than sitting on top of them like 2&3 above) and is anchored in place by both the secondary blades' pivot pin and the center pin -- while most modern "splitspring" whittlers don't taper the springs at all (meeting only at a point at the very end of the springs under the main blade tang), many older ones would fit the inside of the springs together once past the end of the center wedge divider.
Ken Erickson gives a very nice tutorial/WIP of building a Case 6380 pattern whittler here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=637990
Sorry, sometimes when I get going, I just *keep* going.
-- Dwight
Actually Rusty, as a nearly Journeyman smith, you just might want to give one of the old true splitsprings a try, since you seem to want a challenge. Here's a WS Horvath Sheffield (I think - it was very difficult to read) whittler - neat pattern also (posted this before but it was a while back and the images are gone):
You could be the first to try this in almost 150 years (AFAIK anyway). (We need a tempting devil smilie for this.)
So you have several possible whittler constructions: 1) the old true splitspring - one wide untapered spring hot split into two springs at one end; 2) two straight untapered springs with a floating catch bit between the secondary blades (note: both 1&2 have similar weaknesses -- for example, you have to have a fairly short main blade relative to the frame length in both designs because there's little or no room between the secondaries); 3) same as 2, but with both springs tapered on the outside to leave them thicker on the secondary blade end - giving much more latitude to secondary blade thickness - and allowing the floating catch bit to also be thicker (which now needs to be a bit wedge shaped), which then allows the primary blade to be longer since there's more space between the secondary blades - but now you get into the more complex full tapered whittler construction; and 4) is what most call a "splitspring" whittler today - springs are not tapered, but the divider between the secondary blades is a tapered, wedge shaped center divider/liner that goes between the springs (rather than sitting on top of them like 2&3 above) and is anchored in place by both the secondary blades' pivot pin and the center pin -- while most modern "splitspring" whittlers don't taper the springs at all (meeting only at a point at the very end of the springs under the main blade tang), many older ones would fit the inside of the springs together once past the end of the center wedge divider.
Ken Erickson gives a very nice tutorial/WIP of building a Case 6380 pattern whittler here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=637990
Sorry, sometimes when I get going, I just *keep* going.
-- Dwight
yablanowitz
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If you groove on frustration, more power to you. 
Hen and Rooster with tapered springs
Hen and Rooster with tapered springs
yablanowitz
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Queen splitback
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Oh Ok this will be fun, I can feel the grey hair growing already! I like the Hen and Rooster btw that may be the one.