Who can take a Busse skinny-dipping!

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Nov 3, 2010
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Need my baby to take it all off! ...Looking for someone who can make a coated Busse naked, wicked-sharp and polished :D --I love Ban's work, but hear he's moved on to other projects...has anyone picked up the torch? Forum recommendations please!
 
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The Busse Custom shop can do that for you.

Norcalblacktail can do a great job from what I have seen as well.
 
i emailed garth about doing this ...and never got a response. my recommendation is do it yourself. all you need is some citri-strip and a few scotch brite finishing wheels and an electric drill. all available on amazon. i stripped an hhfsh with awesome results, and will be doing a dssf in a day. the stripping involves soaking it in the solution for about 12 hours and then i buffed the knife with the finishing wheel for about 20 minutes. presto satin finish.
 
Nate (AKA Norcalblacktail) did a RMD for me. Removed handles, stripped, satin finish, convexed mirror polished very sharp edge and melted the swedge. Reallly beautiful job.
 
I always wondered...can you leave the handles on while you let it soak in the stripper?

While I haven't soaked a knife for hours in the stripper, I have stripped a number of Busse knives with strong solvent strippers by slathering the stuff on the coating, with no effect to the scales.
 
I've heard it two ways. Scotch Brite "Finishing Wheels" and SB "Flap Wheels." Which is it??? In case I ever decide to polish a previously-coated blade. :)

And Stripper loves handles. . . er, who wants stripper love handles??? Stripper doesn't affect G10 or Micarta. LOL
 
I use spray on stripper and 3M wheels. Leaving the slabs on has always been my gig and I remain happy with everything about my naked INFI.
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I use spray on stripper and 3M wheels. Leaving the slabs on has always been my gig and I remain happy with everything about my naked INFI.
P1030831.jpg

P1030828.jpg

P1030826.jpg

When you use wheels like that, in what direction do you run them in relation to the blade. I've only used flat foam backed adhesive disks and I run them from ricasso to tip with either the 3 o' clock or 9 o' clock edge making contact depending on the side of the blade.

Do those wheels rotate in the direction of the blade's length, or perpendicular to it?
 
When you use wheels like that, in what direction do you run them in relation to the blade. I've only used flat foam backed adhesive disks and I run them from ricasso to tip with either the 3 o' clock or 9 o' clock edge making contact depending on the side of the blade.

Do those wheels rotate in the direction of the blade's length, or perpendicular to it?

I run it both ways. It all depends on how you can hold the knife. I finish off with the finer of the 2 and run it from spine to edge. YMMV though.
 
I'd actually love to try this with a coated blade (although will most definitely started with one of my non-Busse blades). On Busse's, what's the process to remove (and the re-attach) the handles? Did quick search and couldn't find anything so apologize in advance if this is a sticky somewhere and I just missed it :)
 
I'd actually love to try this with a coated blade (although will most definitely started with one of my non-Busse blades). On Busse's, what's the process to remove (and the re-attach) the handles? Did quick search and couldn't find anything so apologize in advance if this is a sticky somewhere and I just missed it :)

I'm sure someone will come along and set you up. I don't ever remove the slabs myself. If that's what I want I have Garth do it at the shop.
 
Here are two of Norcalblacktail’s full satin jobs. Both knives started as regular cc coated blades. Nate does really beautiful work. Thanks again Nate! Sorry about the dust.

natefromnorcal.jpg
 
I'd actually love to try this with a coated blade (although will most definitely started with one of my non-Busse blades). On Busse's, what's the process to remove (and the re-attach) the handles? Did quick search and couldn't find anything so apologize in advance if this is a sticky somewhere and I just missed it :)

Leaving the scales on really is fine. I've stripped two Busse blades, gotten all visible coating completely off and had no problem with discoloration of the scales what-so-ever. I used the stripper MyMind posted.
 
If you have Garth do it the guarantee stays intact :D, just saying.
 
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