I like 440c......I've used it.....
But to claim it is in any way superior to many of the super steels in the market is laughable.
I've looked at his website many times over the years. Always good for a chuckle. Cost aside, I don't think I've seen any of his knives I would choose for a combat/deployment.
I have seen tens of thousands of custom knives over the years. I've held many and owned and used them to.
J. Fisher seems to have a great love for 440C, he also uses CPM154 and ATS34.
I have owned and used customs and production knives in these steels.
I like each, and would not hesitate to buy a knife I liked in any of them.
I've also used many many other steels. 1055, 1065, (etc) 1084, 1095, 52100, A2, L6, D2, A2, 5150, 6150, 15n20, CPM3V
INFI, vg10 and vg1 san mai, ats34, 440c, 4116 Krupp, 8cr13mov, Aus8a, 12c27 AEBL, CPM154
And too many other stainless steels to count.
I've made knives out if 5160, 15n20, and forged my own 5160 and 1084....
I would not turn my nose up at 440c, cpm154, or ats34 in folders or small to medium knives.
With the equipment he has, J. Fisher likely has his heat treat, cryo and temper dialed in to optimize his steel choices.
Many of his claims, especially in regards to steels he deems "lesser" are complete hogwash.
He states that 420 series steels can't be brought above 52 HRC..... Buck uses 420hc at 58 HRC. It is a cheaper steel, with way less edge retention....but it certainly can be hardened above 52 hrc.
Now, 420hc is entry level stuff. Cheap, easy to sharpen, low edge retention, but I enjoy it for what it is.
He also claims that AEBL is complete garbage...absutely the lowest of the low....might as well toss it....anyone who uses it is trash...because he does not use it...
AEBL is a lovely steel. Super tough. Twice the impact resistance as 440c steel. AEBL has extremely fine carbide size compared to 440c, making it super easy to sharpen..
AEBL gives up edge retention, however. 440c has about 25% better edge retention at the low end of their respective standard hardness and it is nearly a tie when you look at the upper end of their usefully hardness in the edge retention in abrasive cutting tests like Carta cut tests. This can be compensated for, somewhat, by running the edge thinner and hardness higher while still being twice as tough. Running it thinner will help compensate for the edge retention, and make it a near tie, while still being tougher for the aebl. Running aebl at higher hardness and taking advantage of its higher toughness might even push it out ahead of 440c at standard hardness while still being tougher than 440c.
Saying it is no good because it was designed as razor blade steel misses the mark. The super fine, evenly distributed carbide make it ideal for taking a high sharpness, stable, strong thin edge alsobmske it great as a knife steel. The super high strength is partly a function of very small/fine carbide.
Many other steels he malignes, like 15n20, CPM3v, etc are some of my absolute favorite steels. Particularly CPM3v. But I also make my own knives out of 15n20 and really enjoy it.
He also shouts "sky is falling, not food safe, going to kill you if you cut an apple with it" about every carbon or tool steel, which is absolutely silly.
People have been using csrbon steel for knives that cut food for 1000's of years.
I have kitchen knives that I still use, that are near 100 years old. Plain old gramps approved carbon steel.
While it is true that you would not want to store or process high volumes of acidic food in high carbon steel containers, or use carbon steel in food processing machinery....it is perfectly lovely in knife applications.
On items where you are trying to avoid taste or discoloration transfer, use stainless, or rinse the knife off firsr and cut wet. Having a nice patina on the carbon steel also cuts down on these issues.
Most common knife users are too lazy to properly care for csrbon steel, but this does not mean it is not good as a knife steel.
Spend a good amount of time learning, before you consider dropping 5k on any knife.
There are knives I would spend that kind of cash on, and one of the criteria I look at is whether I can resell or get my money back out of the piece if needed, or I want to change directions.
I've bought a pocket knife from a hot maker, used it for a couple yesrs and sold it for more than I had into it. That same knife was sold again for double what I sold it for, then tripple, and again for nearly 4 times the original price from the maker.
There are endless cusrom makers you can buy from at a fraction of the cost.
.I have a list of custom makers a mile long. J. Fisher is not on my list.....he seems to do well. He does not need to sell me a knife. So my opinion is just that.
I can't explain how one of his... pointy fancy things can cost about 20 Dustar Dimona.