Who else uses a scythe?

Personally I prefer calling it a mounting collar. Using the term "web" can be confusing, as that's also the term for the thin region of the blade between the rib (the trough that runs along the spine) and the edge. Think of it in the sense of the web between your fingers rather than a spider web.
 
So 42 Blades, do you know how old it is? I do know that it is one of the nicest scythes that I have ever seen around. It is the only one that I've seen that still had some of the original finish on it.That was the only reason I took it from the fellow that had it. Also, do you know what the 75 stands fr on the blade tang?

Thanks, Double Ott
 
what kind of edge should an american blade take? mine take more of a burr than an edge. very odd..
 
Double Ott said:
So 42 Blades, do you know how old it is? I do know that it is one of the nicest scythes that I have ever seen around. It is the only one that I've seen that still had some of the original finish on it.That was the only reason I took it from the fellow that had it. Also, do you know what the 75 stands fr on the blade tang?

Thanks, Double Ott
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I'm totally just guessing by reading the "feel" of the piece and the degree of finish, etc., but I'd guess maybe 50's-60's? It's not ancient, but it's definitely vintage. I'm guessing that the 75 either is either the model or batch number or identifies the fellow operating the forging/drawing equipment. If I had to pick one I'd say it's a model number.

G-pig said:
what kind of edge should an american blade take? mine take more of a burr than an edge. very odd..
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Depends on the manufacturer and the pattern of blade. Generally speaking it seems that brush blades have a softer heat treatment due to the shock they deal with, while weed and grass blades are a little harder due to needing a finer edge and being subject to less shock. But the manufacturer plays a massive role in determining the blade hardness--my TrueTemper weed blade is glassy hard, while I'd expect most weed blades to have a little more shock resistance. My Rixford grass blade has a hardness a fair bit harder than a machete--about knife hardness, but not razor hardness like the TrueTemper is. My bush blade is more around typical axe hardness.
 
my 15" ditch is the only blade thats come through here that takes a very sharp edge, all 4 grass blades ive used have only taken "burr" edges. they mow fine when freshly honed.
 
What stone are you using? I'm just guessing, but I'm thinking it may be an overly coarse stone.
 
Its possible. the stone seems quite smooth, its an older one i bought 2nd hand. the blades take a better edge with a ceramic but the retention is still poor.
 
Hmm...probably either the blade's fault or you're hitting dirt more often than you think. I'm leaning towards the former, as I figure you'd notice the latter. Not all scythe blades were created equal! :o
 
must be. just very odd that so many old blades are soft and malleable [bent blades or "burry" edges].
 
Remember that they weren't just a tool people wanted--they were a tool people NEEDED. And just like today, there was a huge demand for the equivalent of the ol' "Wal*Mart special." Economy scythes abound, and the same with snaths. Even low quality scythes and components are tough to build, so were still no small investment. Think of how many Black & Decker entry-level power tools get sold, even though the motors burn out in a year. ;)
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
...I'm guessing that the 75 either is either the model or batch number or identifies the fellow operating the forging/drawing equipment. If I had to pick one I'd say it's a model number...
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I've seen European scythe blades stamped with the length in centimeters, in 5 cm increments, so maybe it's the "nominal" length by whatever measuring convention they use, corresponding to a 28" American blade.

On some tangs is stamped the last two digits of the year of manufacture, so maybe that's a possibility too.
 
Steve Tall said:
I've seen European scythe blades stamped with the length in centimeters, to the nearest 5 cm, so maybe it's the "nominal" length by whatever measuring convention they use, corresponding to a 28" American blade.

On some tangs is stamped the last two digits of the year of manufacture, so maybe that's a possibility too.
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And given the Austrian manufacture, you're probably right, either way!
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
Just placed an order for a brand new Seymour wooden snath and 30" grass blade so I can figure out what mods I'll need to make to the ones I'll be eventually selling. I have to buy them by the case, so better for me to pay a little extra and get just one to trial before jumping in on a wholesale purchase. I'll take photos and share my thoughts when it gets here. :)
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Have you received that Seymour blade yet? I'm curious because I have one on the aluminum snath and it and I'm starting to think it might benefit from some more edge work. I gave it a very good sharpening bit I think it might need a to be "re-profiled". It doesn't cut as well as my lowly grass hook, and the grass hook has a thinner profile.
 
I literally placed the order today. ;)

But when it gets to me I'll be sharpening it up on the belt sander with some nice 20 micron belts. They come from the factory about as sharp as a marble. Once I'm selling them I'll be giving all the blades the "Special Grade treatment" also. No excuses for a dull edge on a scythe! :)
 
I had to sharpen both sides of the blade & the serrations on my new "golf club" weed cutter. That sucker is sharp now though ! Works surprisingly well for what i bought it for too.
 
Very good! Those don't work as well as a scythe, but they're a lot easier to take on the trail and they DO work! :D
 
Yeah, this particular 30" blade still mows good, weird edge bugs me though.. just have to keep a fresh "burr".
 
Just make sure to keep the burr facing up during use. It'll cause the edge to slip if it's facing down.
 
TwinStick said:
I had to sharpen both sides of the blade & the serrations on my new "golf club" weed cutter. That sucker is sharp now though ! Works surprisingly well for what i bought it for too.
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I've got one of those serrated jobs myself. It's not bad but I recently got a Seymour grass hook which I like more. It's nice and small like the serrated weeder, but with a scythe-like blade. I added a nifty little handle that improves the ergonomics.
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^Good stuff! I've been considering a rig like that myself for when I'm just doing light trimming jobs. Those diamond steels work wonders, too, don't they? My Hewlett "Stubby" Jewelstik has been doing a great job on my sickle and scythe blades.

In other scythe-related news, check out page 1185 of this old catalog for some interesting stuff!

Also my new Seymour ought to arrive on the 18th so I'll be getting it ready to go then and I'll be sure to give my impressions!
 
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