Who makes the best axe handles?
- Thread starter sisk61
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I think you'll find a lot of people use House Handles. I find them affordable and good quality. I like the octagonal and no lacquer options. My last four orders have been fine. No complaints.
Of course, I'm not picky about grain. I just want the axe handle to be straight (and not bowed).
I bought a Gransfors replacement handle - it's ok but not worth the cost - now $30). I found it way too thick. Had to do a lot of work to trim it down.
I've had good luck with Hickory Handle store.
I've also had good luck with O.P. link boys axe and cruiser handles. I've found them at Ace Hardware stores here in NH.
Don't forget about saving handles from old axes you buy. I've saved quite a few recently and reused them.
Of course, I'm not picky about grain. I just want the axe handle to be straight (and not bowed).
I bought a Gransfors replacement handle - it's ok but not worth the cost - now $30). I found it way too thick. Had to do a lot of work to trim it down.
I've had good luck with Hickory Handle store.
I've also had good luck with O.P. link boys axe and cruiser handles. I've found them at Ace Hardware stores here in NH.
Don't forget about saving handles from old axes you buy. I've saved quite a few recently and reused them.
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M3mphis... Hey.. the wood is Swedish... That has to make it better, doesnt it???(sarcasm)
Ummm....I think we're on different pages. I was talking about "G-pig" the kid from Maine that carves sweet handles...
Well youre right then... hahaha My bad. I havent spent much time on the forums since deer season opened up..
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I have seen it in old documentation that the wood is cut into proper lengths and widths, stacked crossed to allow proper airflow, then seasoned, then made into handles. I am not sure if everyone did it this way, and if this is still the practice today. I would think you would want to season/dry the wood first before making the handle. GPig can talk better on this.
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It depends. The most important thing is to stay away from the pithy center. Here's G-pig's tutorial.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/919061-How-I-make-axe-handles
I was going to say me, but I figured id let some of my fans do the honor so I wouldnt appear *too* smug about it.
I actually just carved a handle a few days ago that incorporated the very center of an old tree. It was a triangle shaped piece I split off of a radially split pie style piece that I split off from that over size blank. Had some checking but a little paint on the end grain took care of that. Maple is not particularly pithy though, like other woods. I think ash, especially young ash trees, might have a lot of pith. Small trees do make nice handles though, according to some. The wood is supposed to be flexier and absorb shock better (although I have carved many a handle from large trees split down that absorb shock fine, with no problems splitting cords of wood or something timbers by felling axe alone).
You will be getting a boatload of pics soon, for reasons known to m3mphis (a class act).
I actually just carved a handle a few days ago that incorporated the very center of an old tree. It was a triangle shaped piece I split off of a radially split pie style piece that I split off from that over size blank. Had some checking but a little paint on the end grain took care of that. Maple is not particularly pithy though, like other woods. I think ash, especially young ash trees, might have a lot of pith. Small trees do make nice handles though, according to some. The wood is supposed to be flexier and absorb shock better (although I have carved many a handle from large trees split down that absorb shock fine, with no problems splitting cords of wood or something timbers by felling axe alone).
You will be getting a boatload of pics soon, for reasons known to m3mphis (a class act).
I have carved dozens of handles from green ash and maple. They say it takes 1 year per inch to fully season wood, which is simply not practical for me, with my feast and famine cycle of having access to good stock to make them with. Checking is an issue, but if you are careful and paint the ends its not a problem at all. Warping can be a big problem. I just made a broad axe handle by leaving a thinned piece of maple leaning against a wall in the sun. literally the next day It had warped enough to allow my hands clearence for a hewing axe. gotta hang it straight and out of the sun to avoid that.
Nothing wrong with this per se, just not practical for most situations. I do think you should have the know how to carve dry wood, because its a hell of a lot harder to cut than when its green.
This is one of my favorite write ups from Peter Vido-- I often cite this little story when talking to the bulbous bellied men with their 50 pound splitting mauls who insist that all my handles are too weak for real work.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/821913-quot-Weak-quot-handles-(by-Peter-Vido)
Fitting, cut the wedge kerf and let it set for maybe a week and then drive the wedge. I would leave the wedge a little proud for future tightening. You can also push the wedge beyond flush with the top of the eye and handle using a thin flat peen hammer or a cold chisel with a 4mm flat ground on the edge.
I will wade in on this a little bit, and question conventional wisdom. With regards to cutting wood and seasoning it, it is best to cut in the fall and winter when the tree isn't growing. When the sap is down. It can be done at other times but this is best. Less moisture to dry and cooler temps. Less checking and warping.
In regards to grain orientation edge grain is the stiffest. The strongest? No. Not on breaking strength. If you wanted a handle that would not break you would make a straight handle with the growth rings running at a right angle to what we select. In fact if you stayed in a single growth ring and followed the grain facing the bit it would be great. It would flex more which may be better in some applications. I also suspect it would help with the axe head not working loose.
In regards to grain orientation edge grain is the stiffest. The strongest? No. Not on breaking strength. If you wanted a handle that would not break you would make a straight handle with the growth rings running at a right angle to what we select. In fact if you stayed in a single growth ring and followed the grain facing the bit it would be great. It would flex more which may be better in some applications. I also suspect it would help with the axe head not working loose.
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I think House Handle makes the best off the shelf ready to use handles. I think Tennessee Hickory has the best wood. But their handles are all too fat and have to be shaped to your needs. I just think of them as fine quality handle blanks that are 2/3 carved.