Long time lurker, first time poster...wish me luck.
I use my knives at work very hard. The knives I tended to buy were the ones available at the local Navy Exchange. (Typically low end Gerbers, occasionally Spydercos and SOGs.) I tended to break one every 2-3 months. Bear in mind that I'm a typical sailor; if I'm not actively abusing my knife doing work, I'm actively abusing it at play -- carving, whittling, cutting, and occasionally throwing. Things came to a head when I dropped a nice chunk of change on a Gerber Covert Folder. It was a good knife. It lasted me almost six months (an unheard of amount of time for me) before I'd managed to lose most of the grip screws, accumulated a nice amount of rust inside the lock, and snapped the tip off. I reground the tip and replaced the screws after my last deployment but the blade had an excessive amount of wobble to it. Tightening the pivot screws to the point where the play was removed made it nearly impossible to open or close. I figured it was time for another knife. (To the Covert's credit, I never managed to ding or chip the blade; I don't know the whole story behind that whiz-bang steel it's made of but it seems to be great stuff.)
I picked up a CS Voyager (5" serrated tanto) on impulse and threw it into the fray over a year and a half ago. Since then, I've broken down ammo crates, pried open stubborn ammo cans, pried apart (or smashed, if required) wooden dunnage, cut through wire seals (the braided kind), cut old rags into cleaning patches, pried up nails, hammered nails back down, pried stuck/split casings out of firearms, and generally done all the things CS says not to do in the warranty...on a daily basis, no less. I'm also the only person in my shop that uses his knife as a wirecutter -- I close the knife halfway, place the wire across the groove in the handle, and use a squeezing motion to sever it. I've done some one-time stunts that were pretty spectacular, but the one I'll always remember best was sawing through most of a tire, including the belt, over the course of a few minutes. (The story behind that is beyond the scope of this post. Suffice it to say that it was necessary.) The blade got VERY hot in this case and had noticably dulled, but it survived. And -- joy of joys -- the screws never came loose and got lost, as there are no screws to lose. I like things simple.
This year and a half has been rough on my Voyager. It has two nasty dings in the edge, just forward of where the serrations start, that are too deep to grind out easily. These were caused by several months of snapping wire seals with a levering motion. At first, I used the edge of the blade to pry seals apart, as I was afraid of lock failure or blade breakage. I've since learned that a reinforced tanto point is plenty strong to be used sideways instead and that's the way I do it now. The finish is very scratched up and the serrations have lost some of their distinctness from numerous resharpenings. The finish is worn off the clip in most places. It still locks as tightly as it did the day I bought it.
Is it the best knife under $200? I'm almost sure that it isn't. However, it's done everything that I've ever asked of it. It's taken an enormous amount of abuse. And, if and when it ever breaks, I'm out $60...a real shame, but I won't cry myself to sleep over it. My only regret is that it was the tenth folder I've owned, and not the first. I've read that CS quality can be hit or miss, so YMMV.
). This is also a quick opener with a 440C blade that the production edge, (a fairly sharp edge at that 
