Who makes the strongest slip joints?

Kaizen1 said:
My trapper always fails at spine whack tests.
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I always cringe when I see an inquiry about toughest/strongest in the traditional section. Other unnamed sections of Bladeforums have had a bad influence on the mentality given to knives and how they should be treated.
That being said a man could survive just as well in a crisis situation with a good stockman as with a high-end tactical folder.
 
a man could survive just as well in a crisis situation with a good stockman as with a high-end tactical folder

Especially as you will have three blades instead of one
 
I have seen Case Tested XX peanuts that have been used since their birth and they still are ready to go to work and it's all because those who used it, took care of it. Any knife will fail, but not without some cause from the user. I think it best to judge the job, before I judge the knife. I find it very hard to say who makes the toughest, I have Case, Queen, Buck, Canal Street and GEC knives that if I just used without abusing, would all last longer than me. Some knives handle tough jobs better, but it's usually the bigger knives which were made for bigger jobs. Yes, that beautiful Elephant Toe above would be better suited for for a big job VS a little peanut. But, that little peanut will beat that Elephant on a hundred other jobs.

I like GEC in particular, can they handle more that my Case knives? Probably not, but I'm a knife snob and I'm willing to pay for better Fit and Finish with a great backspring.
 
I have several Buck Stockmen from the 70's that show wear in places that let you know they rattled around with pocket change, zippos and car keys for a number of years. Some were flat stone sharpened and some just carefully touched up. Who knows what type of life and adventures they encountered. Would be great if a tiny camera would record a photo of the main blade every time light struck it.......

I like TL-29s also, they are usually sharpened to death, when I see them unusable.

As has been stated by the wise above, give any of the well made ones good maintenance and they will last at least two dogs long.

300Bucks
 
I'm sure a Rough Rider would last just as long as a Case or Buck. Unless your knife is a total piece of crap, if you treat it right, it should last for many many years. Don't take this the wrong way, but what use is a question like this regarding Traditional knives? As others have already mentioned, as long as you don't abuse your knife you'll be perfectly fine.
 
There have been a number of Buck, Case and others that have seen a long life of use posted here. They started out well before today's modern "hard use" folders.
 
I think it's a valid question, within reason.

Yes, I do see a lot of questions like this on "that other forum". I've come to realize that there are a great number of young guys who have not had the luck to have a grandfather, or even a father figure in their life who can educate them on stuff. Young couples get divorced, the yuppy dad is more concerned with his new girlfriend and a Porshe than his kid, or the father just may be a hard working office type who does not have a lot of time or inclination for the outdoor stuff with his son. Or daughter. Kids have to learn someplace, and if they've been hanging over at that "other forum" then they may have questions about a type of knife that they are not too familiar with. If they have a question, I'll try to give them an answer in a form they will understand. Later, they may see the error of their ways. But you have to start someplace. Like they say, the only really dumb question is the one not asked.

A little patience with the kids is sometimes a good thing.

Who knows, if there may be some defections from that "other forum", we don't want to scare them off.

Carl.
 
jackknife said:
I think it's a valid question, within reason.

Yes, I do see a lot of questions like this on "that other forum". I've come to realize that there are a great number of young guys who have not had the luck to have a grandfather, or even a father figure in their life who can educate them on stuff. Young couples get divorced, the yuppy dad is more concerned with his new girlfriend and a Porshe than his kid, or the father just may be a hard working office type who does not have a lot of time or inclination for the outdoor stuff with his son. Or daughter. Kids have to learn someplace, and if they've been hanging over at that "other forum" then they may have questions about a type of knife that they are not too familiar with. If they have a question, I'll try to give them an answer in a form they will understand. Later, they may see the error of their ways. But you have to start someplace. Like they say, the only really dumb question is the one not asked.

A little patience with the kids is sometimes a good thing.

Who knows, if there may be some defections from that "other forum", we don't want to scare them off.

Carl.
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Well said Carl. Thanks for the words of wisdom.
 
In my search for old slipjoints, I've found old Camillus, Case, Kutmaster and Remingtons that have been through the ringer, but still have the walk and talk. Little bit of time sharpening (and I am not the best out there), and they are razor sharp. These knives were built to last. My Great Easterns and Queen family knives will last too.
 
I think its a valid question. Sounds more like, what manufacturer uses the best materials and construction techniques. Thats how I read it at least.

I can say GEC, Henckels (Boker Tree Brand) and Buck USA knives are built strong. Of all the day to day tasks I have come across I think the most stressful is when I whittle. I always whittle on the heartwood of seasoned hardwoods such as black locust, american beech, rock maple, oak and although I primarily control all cuts with the blade and not the handle, there is a LOT of stress put on all components of a knife when you do this.

Short of batoning I can't see a much more stressful situation. I wouldn't baton with a folder of any type though. I use an axe to split wood, a machete to clear brush and the likes and I use a folder for cutting and whittling. If I absolutely had to baton I have a Busse fixed blade for that task.
 
+1 with the whittling theory. Possibly the toughest thing I do with a knife. Cutting greenwood sticks out of a hedge an whittling silly things is a fav pastime of mine. My knife of choice for this is an Opinel. Odd choice you may say but the blade is convex, thin and flexes slightly, taking pressure off of the pivot point. the pivot itself is peened each side of a steel ring which encloses the blade as well as the end of the wooden handle, making it a strong joint (and one you can tighten down the line should you need to). the most likely way of the knife failing (providing you remember to twist the lock!) is if you put too much torsional pressure on the blade (if you do, go and buy another, they're only $10). Perhaps not everyone's idea of a traditional but they've been around for 180 years:)

Perhaps I should change my name to Opinelman........
 
Stainz said:
Boker Tree Brand 'classics', especially in carbon steel, are pretty hard to beat. Sorry, but the few Case examples I have just don't compare... to me. My old Buck 301 is stout, but it's SS edge-keeping is less than exemplary. An old carbon steel Boker's blade is just a great example of a long time user, it's patina indicative of use.

Stainz
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Yes, I agree with this. Böker, Germany, carbon knives are tough and not too dear either.
I would say a Buck can stand a lot of neglect with ease though, simple and well machined.
Fact is, as others have pointed out, most slipjoints are decent and durable provided you don't behave un reasonably with them.

OP we need to hear of your progress in this area...:D:thumbup:
 
......... not sure what "tough" means on a knife. They are meant to cut.
Not pry.
Not drive screws.
Not as hammers.
They are knives.
Knives cut.
In this sense, ALL slippies from a reputable company, from Rough Rider to Victorinox will qualify as tough knives.
A Plastic handled Victorinox will most likely last just as long as the heftiest GEC because they are used to cut.
So, find one you like and knock yourself out. It's all good.
 
In manufacturing, they have figured out how to make pocket knives the same by the hundreds.
People on the other hand are not made the same. I don't care about the price or how well a knife is made, you give two or more people the same knife doing the same job and one of them will damage or destroy the knife while the other will carry and care for it for a lifetime, well worn but cared for.

I think the issue has more do with people who know where the limits are and a lot of the time, their lives reflect this quality or the lack of it.
 
For what you would term hard use,I'd pick a Victorinox SAK.You can turn screws,pry,open cans,strip wire,Bore with the awl,open a wine bottle,lift parcels or camp pots,scissoring duty,turn small bolts(with right models),file,saw through limbs or whatever,and all while saving the knife for knifely duties.That to me is hard use any way you cut it.
 
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