Who still does at least half of your sharpening manually, on stones?

Do you do at least half of your knife sharpening manually, on stones?

  • Yes

    Votes: 60 84.5%
  • No

    Votes: 11 15.5%

  • Total voters
    71
I’ve never tried this method!, and maybe I could manage it. (I work standing (leverage) or sit on a low stool (get to eye level).)

Follow-ups: do you hold the stone parallel or perpendicular to the edge?

What are the dimensions (approx) of your pocket stone?

How were the kippers? 😝
The pocket stones are about 4 x 1 inches. I hold the stone in my left hand so the end (the 1 inch wide part) is toward me, and the knife blade is pointing to my left (holding the knife in my right hand), so the stone is perpendicular to the edge. If I'm sharpening from heel to tip with an edge-leading stroke, then I'm moving the stone to the left as I'm pulling the blade toward me or pushing it away from me. (Difficult to describe, hope that's clear.) If tip to heel then the stone is moving to the right. It's my own idea and just sort of seems to work for me and helps me keep a constant angle.
 
I'm a dedicated freehand sharpener, I've done axes on files and stones, stropped to shaving sharp, but in the interest of time I use a belt sander to do bigger blades like machetes or axes that have been severely neglected or abused. There's nearly never a time I use a belt sander on a smaller knife outside of a substantial repair or reprofile.
 
For years, I didn't know of an option to freehand sharpening. At 71 with bad eyes and worse hands, I'm very grateful for my K03. There's no way I would trust myself to freehand sharpen a premium knife.
 
17424356842317633883261750075555.jpgthis! whether game guides or buddies at the fish head nothing is used more.one knife one moose and 4 swi
Es and your good lol.
 
I’ve tried a few guided sharpeners.. I don’t use them anymore. Stones, plates, ceramics, wet dry 600 grit paper, strops and coffee. I like hand sharpening my knives.
 
If you can sharpen better on a non-guided stone better than a guided sharpening setup I admire the fact that you are part robot. And I hope someone believes you.
No robotics, just keen sense of touch, like a safe cracker.

So you doubt the edge: I hooked up with a fellow BF member (the guy has a physics degree and PhD in P-chem, currently he holds multiple patents—so he knows how to make and test things)

Anyway, he built a device to test edge sharpness: it was pressure sensitive, and it included cutting through a medium with a certain resistance.

He was shocked at how well my edges performed. I don’t know what the unit of measure was, but my edge sliced the medium cleanly with only the weight of the knife and at the lowest end of the pressure spectrum.

Sensitivity baby!
 
If you can sharpen better on a non-guided stone better than a guided sharpening setup I admire the fact that you are part robot. And I hope someone believes you.
Consider the indisputable reality that people have been putting razor edges on blades for literally centuries, if not longer, using nothing other than a learned freehand skill which was passed from each generation to the next. Only in the very modern era have guided systems started to replace what previously was a very common practice among most anyone using a knife or any other edged tool.

Some call freehand sharpening a dying art. Whether it's actually 'art' or not, sadly it does seem to be something that not as many are willing to make the effort to learn anymore, all while being seduced by the convenience of guided rigs that take most of the feel out of maintaining a steady angle or recognizing by touch whether the bevels are flush to the stone.

The upside today is, there are SO MANY resources available now to aid in the learning process, if some of us weren't fortunate enough to learn from our elders.

And keep in mind, I'm not criticizing the use of guided rigs. I used them as a stepping stone along the way to learning freehand. They have their place as a learning tool at least, in illustrating what principles are important in making an edge truly sharp. But it's not like they're the only means to do that.
 
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Consider the indisputable reality that people have been putting razor edges on blades for literally centuries, if not longer, using nothing other than a learned freehand skill which was passed from each generation to the next. Only in the very modern era have guided systems started to replace what previously was a very common practice among most anyone using a knife or any other edged tool.

Some call freehand sharpening a dying art. Whether it's actually 'art' or not, sadly it does seem to be something that not as many are willing to make the effort to learn anymore, all while being seduced by the convenience of guided rigs that take most of the feel out of maintaining a steady angle or recognizing by touch whether the bevels are flush to the stone.

The upside today is, there are SO MANY resources available now to aid in the learning process, if some of us weren't fortunate enough to learn from our elders.

And keep in mind, I'm not criticizing the use of guided rigs. I used them as a stepping stone along the way to learning freehand. They have their place as a learning tool at least, in illustrating what principles are truly important in making an edge truly sharp. But it's not like they're the only way to do that.
I could make the case that sharpening is an art (not art).

I've taught sharpening for decades. One physician came to me in his 50's and couldn't stop thanking me for teaching him something he always wanted to learn. Nearly all of my students do very well with stones and end up liking sharpening--one lady sharpens her knives at work!

One student wanted to use the WE and she came back with the weirdest problem: the edge looked normal on one side and completely lopsided on the other such that the knife was going to wear unevenly. This is probably operator error, and it also proves that more equipment does not = "idiot-proof."

Personally, I don't think starting with equipment/rigs adds to the learning curve, but that could be my bias.
 
I could make the case that sharpening is an art (not art).

I've taught sharpening for decades. One physician came to me in his 50's and couldn't stop thanking me for teaching him something he always wanted to learn. Nearly all of my students do very well with stones and end up liking sharpening--one lady sharpens her knives at work!

One student wanted to use the WE and she came back with the weirdest problem: the edge looked normal on one side and completely lopsided on the other such that the knife was going to wear unevenly. This is probably operator error, and it also proves that more equipment does not = "idiot-proof."

Personally, I don't think starting with equipment/rigs adds to the learning curve, but that could be my bias.
That's essentially why I phrased it the way I did ('whether or not'). In the hands of some true masters, it really can be an art in the beauty of it. For others of us, including myself, it may simply be more utilitarian - including anything up to and including literal shaving sharpness, but maybe not as 'pretty' in the finished visual.

I agree that some won't see the need for learning with a guided system and have learned some other way. But that's what worked for me. Everybody's learning curve is different. The way I started out, in seeing just what 'sharp' could be as first demo'd by my use of a guided rig, that's what motivated me to emulate the same degree of sharpness in my freehand attempts at it. It set a target to aim for. Today, my freehand edges are at least as sharp as what I first achieved on the guided rigs I used. And even better in some aspects, like figuring out what sort of edge finish or profile is best for the specific task I want to perform. In particular, the slight convex behind the edge resulting from freehand sharpening usually performs better in cutting tougher materials, where the otherwise crisp shoulders on a perfect V-edged profile would be more prone to bind up in cutting tough materials. My favorite edges these days all have some shallow convex to the grind behind the edge.
 
If you can sharpen better on a non-guided stone better than a guided sharpening setup I admire the fact that you are part robot. And I hope someone believes you.
Snark aside, I think it's worth calling attention to a common misconception that appears to be part of your assumption here: that sharpening is all about how well you can hold an angle.

If it were just that, guided systems would indeed be superior. But it's not. It's about feeling where the bevel is, where the apex is, dealing with the quirks and warps and changes in bevel angle. Knifes are rarely perfectly flat and perfectly evenly ground. Sharpening freehand is partly about learning to adjust for what the knife is telling you, and that's a much more important skill than robotic angle-holding.
 
All of my chef knives are done on stone. I'll touch up my pocket knives here and there on the stones too.

Mostly, the pocket knives are done on the KME.
 
That's essentially why I phrased it the way I did ('whether or not'). In the hands of some true masters, it really can be an art in the beauty of it. For others of us, including myself, it may simply be more utilitarian - including anything up to and including literal shaving sharpness, but maybe not as 'pretty' in the finished visual.

I agree that some won't see the need for learning with a guided system and have learned some other way. But that's what worked for me. Everybody's learning curve is different. The way I started out, in seeing just what 'sharp' could be as first demo'd by my use of a guided rig, that's what motivated me to emulate the same degree of sharpness in my freehand attempts at it. It set a target to aim for. Today, my freehand edges are at least as sharp as what I first achieved on the guided rigs I used. And even better in some aspects, like figuring out what sort of edge finish or profile is best for the specific task I want to perform. In particular, the slight convex behind the edge resulting from freehand sharpening usually performs better in cutting tougher materials, where the otherwise crisp shoulders on a perfect V-edged profile would be more prone to bind up in cutting tough materials. My favorite edges these days all have some shallow convex to the grind behind the edge.
I suspect we agree, and we are using the word "art" differently. I'm not referring to the cosmetic effect of sharpening. I'm referring to the artist-level skill of doing the most with the least for the best and longest lasting result on a knife.

It takes a lot of practice to know which tool to reach for and how to apply it to each knife and to get that last few percentage points of sharpness. This is evident to me when students bring in knives that have no visible problem with the sharpening and I can still eek out a better edge that they agree works better.

If cosmetics count, there are probably fewer "masters." I would rather have the sharpest knife possible-- even if is doesn't look pristine-- because I will use it to death!

Perhaps you are under-rating yourself? Or we just have different definitions.
 
It's a Mora Pro Flex -- it's a thin zero saber grind, Sandvik 12C27.
Thanks. Couldn't see it on my small screen. Those are other variables: the grind and steel that can affect the choice of sharpening stone/technique. I sharpen a fair number of double hollow ground and chisel grinds. I'm curious if you would sharpen this knife with a pocket stone. I don't think I could: I would screw up the angle and probably roll the edge. (cartoon and knife are from my teacher/friend).IMG_5593.JPEG
 
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