Who still likes ATS-34?

Okay, newbie question here. Someone want to explain what "dirty" steel is? I recently purchased about a $100 worth of ats-34 cause from reading forums it seamed a lot of makers were using it. Now this thread comes along, grrr. Haven't finished any blades yet, just grinding a bunch so far getting ready for ht. So far the only thing I've noticed is how warped the bars are; I bought 6 ft. lengths. It's taking me longer to straighten the twist and bends and sand flat than it's taking me to hollow grind the blade.

Dave
 
alexmin , I just picked up a bunch from Crucible Service Center in Butler Wisconsin. The CPM 154 CM came FOB from Arlington TX .
 
'Dirt' in steel is nonmetallic inclusions , either oxides or sulfides.A dirty steel will not be satisfactory for a mirror polish since you will see the inclusions .They minimize the inclusions by various types of vacuum melting techniques .Why they don't do that for a high end steel like ATS-34 is a mystery !! If you use it for blades with say a 400 grit finish it should be OK.... CPM154 is the same chemistry [except maybe V] as 154CM, but made differently .The CPM method has smaller and more evenly distributed carbides making it better for maker and user !
 
mete said:
'Dirt' in steel is nonmetallic inclusions , either oxides or sulfides.A dirty steel will not be satisfactory for a mirror polish since you will see the inclusions .They minimize the inclusions by various types of vacuum melting techniques .Why they don't do that for a high end steel like ATS-34 is a mystery !! If you use it for blades with say a 400 grit finish it should be OK.... CPM154 is the same chemistry [except maybe V] as 154CM, but made differently .The CPM method has smaller and more evenly distributed carbides making it better for maker and user !
Click to expand...

In other steels, a lot of recycling is going on lately. I believe a good example of this is 5160. A lot of it has stuff in it that you can see after grinding to just 60 or 80 grit. That is why there was so much excitement when the "clean" 5160 from John Deere was made available by one of our forum members here.

Craig
 
Craig, some talk of recycling steel as something new . It's been done from the very start of the iron age. When you buy a piece of steel today most of it is from recycled material. Even the highest grades are , though there the recycled part is also high grade. The lesser grades have other things like copper as a 'trace element ' but in high enough amounts to effect HT. With steel shortages it's not going to get better .Remember that there are different quality levels - bearing and aircraft quality have to pass inclusion standards !! Find a good source and stick with it !!
 
RJ, not really ,in the beginning they had some IIRC but I'm not sure now. It's not on their website yet .Someone also mentioned they were thinking of making CPM D2 !
 
Bruce Davita told me they've offered CPM D2 for years now - large minimum order and very little performance benefit so it was rarely ordered.

Rob!
 
I like using 1095, 1084, and 52100 if you want to make using knives. No one like the rust thing, but if you take care of your knife like you would your toothbrush it will work great for you. It will hold a great edge and do your hand rubbing you can produce a very high finish.

Along time ago I decided not to let someone else heat treat my blades, So, I purchased a heat treating Oven and invested in a Rockwell hardened Tester. In doing so, I would know what my knives was in the edge holding ability. I would not have to go on the word of someone else.

So many times I see individuals selling knives that they state that they maked. But actually there knives was make by many individuals such as engravers, heat treating specialists, handles, and so on.

When I leave this world I would like to be known by the one who make the knives from start to finish.

Barkes:thumbup:
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard/knifeshop
1.812.526.6390
 
Barkes Knife Shop said:
I like using 1095, 1084, and 52100 if you want to make using knives. No one like the rust thing, but if you take care of your knife like you would your toothbrush it will work great for you.
Click to expand...

I've never heard it said better.

Barkes Knife Shop said:
When I leave this world I would like to be known by the one who make the knives from start to finish.
Barkes:thumbup:
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard/knifeshop
1.812.526.6390
Click to expand...

Words to live by, and an honorable goal.
 
Looks like Bruce and the guy that I talked to are telling conflicting stories about the CPM version of D2. The person I talked to was named Scott and he asked me if I wanted to be put on a list to be notified when it became available in 2007. I do not know Scott's job title, but they referred me to him to answer a question I had about CPM 154.
 
How about the folks who make it. Crucible steel. It doesn't have any v. in it. This rumor got started a couple of years ago when they were first thinking about manufacturing it. If it had the V. It wouldn't look like the pool of mercury that Kevin spoke of. They tell me at Crucible. NO V! The Loveless shop is still using the ATS-34. How do I know. I split a shipment with them. It's a very clean batch. may be when it's gone, we will switch to the CPM. Mike
 
I forgot to add, I f you will buy your ATS in hot rolled bar, rather than sheared cold rolled plate, you will have a lot cleaner steel. The tractor tread pattern is just about always present in the cold rolled stuff. One reason I won't buy from admiral. D-2 can be brought to a high mirror, but it is difficult, and requires a different technique than most other steels. As to edge holding, if you sharpen with a very very fine diamond hone, it will get very sharp. I start with a very fine diamond hone, and bring the hone down further with a Carborundum stone to get it to where I want it. Once you have the fine hone smoothed out, they do a fantastic job. If anyone is enterested, I will be more than happy to post the method I use to get a full mirror on D-2, Just little tricks of the trade that I've learned over the years. Merry Christmas everyone!!! Mike
 
I would appreciate seeing a description of your D2 polishing method, Mike. Thank you!
 
All right, referring to my earlier post wanting to know what "dirty steel" is, I think I've just found my answer. I was sanding a blade flat and found a spot about 5/64" in diameter and about 1/16" deep. Looked at it under a magnifier and it seems to be made of hard, black (carbon?) material. Luckily it's on the tang and won't matter, but yikes!

Dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top