who uses 15V?

According to the Crucible data sheet, 15V is extremely wear-resistant but not very tough. Sounds like a real bear to grind and sharpen.
 
after working cpm10v and cpmS125v (and using the blades )

i see little to be gained in having a blade made in 15v
the edge would need to be fairly thick to keep it from being too chipy
 
sounds like that steel might work very well for that ..

make short work of tomatos and cucumbers
 
You don't really want to use this stuff. Its just plain NASTY! I have surface ground it on a couple of occasions, and even going across a small surface was bad. The 46 grit wheel would go dull and start squawking before finishing a single .005" pass.
I've mostly seen it used in stamping forms where carbide wouldn't hold up. If its a replacement for carbide, expect it to be tough to work with. Its mostly finished in its hardened state with wire EDM.
JP
 
Yeah, I just want a very high carbide blade. I have CPM-D2, M4, S110V, S90V, 3V, ZDP-189, etc., just looking for something crazier. I don't think anyone would make a supracore blade, so 15V would have to do. Also, since I have more knives, particularly L6 and 4140, I wouldn't worry about chipping the 15V blade since I wouldn't use it for abusive work.
 
jpknives said:
You don't really want to use this stuff. Its just plain NASTY! I have surface ground it on a couple of occasions, and even going across a small surface was bad. The 46 grit wheel would go dull and start squawking before finishing a single .005" pass.
I've mostly seen it used in stamping forms where carbide wouldn't hold up. If its a replacement for carbide, expect it to be tough to work with. Its mostly finished in its hardened state with wire EDM.
JP
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How about handshaping with a XC DMT stone? :D
 
Plus it is very very expensive. I would guess between $80 - $100 a pound. Plus probably $200 maybe more just in extra cost for time and belts added onto your normal knife price. So it would end up being an expensive knife and i think more headake then its worth. It would be a nightmare to sharpen. You would have to use diamond and a diamond laced strop. Get you a blade made out of w2 or another great carbon steel.
 
I do have diamond sharpeners, and my strop is loaded with 0.25 micron diamond powder

I have carbon and lower alloyed tool steel knives. I have more knives than I need, I just want another one made out of 15V.
 
i call DMT a must for anything over s30v

so far as 15v in the kitchen i think that it would be far to coarse an edge to be good on any thing other then meat prep as a thick edge and sub 600 grit sharpening would not be good on vegetables
 
butcher_block said:
i call DMT a must for anything over s30v

so far as 15v in the kitchen i think that it would be far to coarse an edge to be good on any thing other then meat prep as a thick edge and sub 600 grit sharpening would not be good on vegetables
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I've sharpened up my S90V knives on my Sharpmaker's white ceramics no problem. :)

You can't take the edge on a 15V knife past 600? What about DMT stones?
 
Josh K said:
I've sharpened up my S90V knives on my Sharpmaker's white ceramics no problem. :)

You can't take the edge on a 15V knife past 600? What about DMT stones?
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not to sayit cant be done but the steel is so toothy anyhow cause of the carbides that there might be little to be gained Vs time spent honing

btw i too have the spyderco fine and ultra fine bench hones (ues on my razors )
also DMT 325 600 1200 was thinking about the XXf but im now gettign more into Jp. hones 5K and 10K for razor work
 
butcher_block said:
not to sayit cant be done but the steel is so toothy anyhow cause of the carbides that there might be little to be gained Vs time spent honing

btw i too have the spyderco fine and ultra fine bench hones (ues on my razors )
also DMT 325 600 1200 was thinking about the XXf but im now gettign more into Jp. hones 5K and 10K for razor work
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If you're still making in a couple years I might be interested in learning to shave with a straight razor. Yours look really nice. :thumbup:

Has anyone considered a straight carbon (no carbide) steel? Just massive amounts of carbon, and little or nothing else. 1095 on steroids if you will. It'll rust, but honestly I'd love to have something with the keenest edge possible, and 15V does sound very full of carbides.
 
you're going to have carbides in steel, because of the carbon. Cementite is iron carbide. Also, you can have very very fine carbides, such as in AEB-L or 52100 when HT'd well.
 
hardheart said:
you're going to have carbides in steel, because of the carbon. Cementite is iron carbide. Also, you can have very very fine carbides, such as in AEB-L or 52100 when HT'd well.
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AEB-L looks interesting, never heard of it.

What about applying the CPM process to carbon steels? Would that provide any benefit?
 
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