Who's doing in-house S30V Heat Treat?

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BINGO!

Thanks for the specs Sir Paul.:) I am sure we all thank you for sharing that with us. I am pleased all I need to do is tweek my recipie just a little to comply with yours.

Roger

STEVE: - I grind the s30v blade to 600 grit, before and after HT. I then hand rub the ricaso to 1000 grit. Finer than 1000 grit; I don't even try anymore. The s30v gives scratches finer than 600 grit up very sparingly. I find it very difficult to get an even 1000 grit hand rub on the blade V grind. I have decided to leave my s30v V grinds at 600 grit. It looks good but does not reflect. I do buff with green compound but it does little good for me.

Roger
 
Pauls heat treat on the S30-V has been fantastic. I am a particular guy when it comes to heat treat, and if I dont do my own Paul does it. S30-V is a nice easy steel to heat treat.
 
Wow, that's the most words I've ever seen Paul type. Hell, that's more words than he uses in a phone call... :D
 
Just gotta ask guys - what is a "fast gas quench" that Paul mentioned? Just when you think you know something you have to hang your head and ask another stupid question (head hanging low). Printed Pauls formula out to try but is the gas regular or high test (yes - I am kidding).
 
Hay: Rob how you doing, has that white fluffy stuf covered you you up yet, it got down to 50 deg. here last night boute froze my as off. Jerry it took me all day to type that, dident get much heat treating done. I like this fourm nobody complains about my spelling. Bill sorry to get you confused, I do all my hardining and quenching in a sealed retort, When I pull the retort out of the furness I flood it with Argon gas to get a fast quench, For your aplcation when you pull it out of your furness just cool it down under a fan.
 
Plain ol Bill,

Just to expand a little, and I hope I have Sir Paul's blessings on this:

Most of us kitchen table heat treaters, I guess, do not have the ability to purge our kilns (furnace, oven, whatever) with an inert gas that purges oxygen and prevents decarborization. Even if we did, pulling the high temp steel out for quench would expose it to oxygen and allow decarb.. I use high temp. foil to wrap my stainless in. This minimizes oxygen about the steel as it austinitizes. I remove the steel from the wrap only after it has gone through its first temp cycle, whether that be the snap or regular temper. I could remove it after cooling from the hardening cycle but that might allow the steel to cool below a safe limit before the first temper should be performed.

So far I have been very fortunate using wrap, in that all I have gotten to date is discolorization with no noticable decarb. pitting.

EDIT: As usual, I forget to specify at least one very important part. I only use foil wrap for steels that can be air quenched. Submersion in liquid will not allow a consistant quench about the steel and enhance the chance for wrap, excess stress, and possible cracking due to sudden uneven cooling. This because the steel being quenched can not contact directly the quenching liquid (oil).

Roger
 
Paul thanks for the response - I had just never heard the term "gas quench" before. Roger I use a Paragon oven that I can put an inert atmosphere in but figured out real quick that was a waste of my $$ versus foil wrap. Another term I am not used to is "snap temper". Would you define the term for me? (Just full of iggerant questions ain't I).
 
Be careful Bill. Foil will insulate the steel when you remove it from the oven and prevent it from fully hardening. You must use quench plates to get the temp down to below 1000F VERY quickly if you're using foil. A lot of the folks who tried CPM-3V early on didn't like it, because they weren't getting it fully hardened for the same reason. Paul's system works. Quench plates work, and my friend Rob Patton uses a coating on his blades to prevent decarburization in the oven, then hits the edge with a blast of of air from his compressor when he takes it out. You can't just air cool foil wrapped blades with S30V or CPM-3V.
 
Jerry,

Can you paint a piture for us, using words, what a set of quench plates look like? Just two pieces of steel you sandwich the blade in? I can see using a vise too but seems it may take too long to screw the blade in.

Thanks?

Roger
 
Basically, two heavy steel or aluminum plates between which you can quickly sandwich the foil-wrapped blade to draw off as much heat as possible as quickly as possible. A heavy vise might work, but you'd have to clamp it in pretty quickly.
 
Jery is Rob Patton doing S30V w/ a coating to prevent decarb? If so, so you know what coating? I'm curious, I haven't found a coating that will stand up to the temps reqd. for the S30V.
 
Bill I forget the name of what Rob's using. I'll try to find out. Yes, he had done both S30V and CPM-3V with it, hardening at 1950-1975F.
 
...got ahold of Rob. The material is called Turcote, and he got it from K&G Supply, but I can't find it in their catalog. You might need to call and ask. 800-972-1192

As I remember it's kind of pricey, but Rob said he's on his second can in 6 years. Since both he and his dad work in the same shop fulltime, that sounds like pretty good mileage.
 
Looking to try my own s30v, does no one quench s30v in aluminum plates? Or is literally air cool and a fan what you want? Also do you have a second HT oven to get it in 600 degrees quickly?
 
This is a 16 year ld conversation.

Quench pates are used for S30V. I don't think you understand HT if asking about a second oven at 600????

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