Who's using the Edge Pro Sharpening System and how da ya like it?

R

rlinger

Joined
Mar 29, 2002
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also, is there a round sharpening rod available for it for sharpening curves - such as the hook on the Tracker version I am making or another example might be hawk bills?

Thanks.

RL
 
Roger, I've got an Edge Pro I got in trade for a forge and burner I made for a fellow but I haven't used it yet. Actually remembered I had it while I was at the show yesterday. Now that I have room I think I'll set it up and give it ago.
 
I have an Edge Pro and it's the best sharpner I have. Those water stones really cut. There is a learning curve, however. Check out the instructions and follow them and before too long you will be sharpening everything.
Be sure to soak the stones 10 min before you use them and make sure you keep them FLAT.

I use the Edge Pro to reprofile the edge (when knife is very dull) and a Sharpmaker for touch ups.

I've retired my Lansky.
 
I have an edgepro and I love it. Best knifesharpener out there. I'm not sure about the round rod for sharpening those inside curves.

Luke
 
There is not a round rod available to snap in. However you have two options.
Order a special cut down hone from Ben at EdgePro 1/2 inch wide. This works well for re curves.

Or fabricate a new metal rod with an adapter to fit a ceramic round rod. I am a machinist and made something up on the lathe but in a pinch you could use a 2 inch piece of dowel drilled one end to accept the ceramic round rod and the other to accept a length of guide rod.
 
rlinger said:
How about a round rod for sharpening steep inside curves?
Click to expand...
Roger, I got an Edge-Pro Apex model with stone upgrade kit to have all the stone grits. I picked it up from Ben Dale, owner of E-P and one of the very best online vendors I've ever dealt with. He's super-responsive to questions on his product, whether via email or phone. I liked the Apex + upgrade combo so much that I later got a spare one when it showed up on the For Sale forum here on BFC.

Supposedly, if you take the little brass spacer sleeve off the Edge-Pro a ceramic rod from a Spyderco Sharpmaker can be clamped into the E-P and used for recurves or serrated blades. The spacer sleeve is the one between the round handle knob and the sliding aluminum block at the end of the sliding arm. You could likewise mount a round ceramic rod in the E-P and use that on recurves.

For round rod, I recommend getting the 11-inch ceramic rods that Smokey Mountain Knife Works puts on sale periodically for $0.99 each. The wooden handle on them is not glued on very well. I've had them fall off with a gentle bump. (I dropped it on the floor. :rolleyes: ) So take the handle off, then score/break the rod to a length to fit the E-P (with or without the spacer sleeve).

FWIW, the coarsest water stone is the stone I use most (reprofiling edges thinner), so I got a couple spares from Ben in that grit. It's also the stone that seems easiest to "dish out" and lose its flatness. A friend said that for hogging metal in a hurry on his E-P, he mounts a coarse diamond-coated steel plate sharpener to the metal blank that E-P uses for their Polishing Tapes. He uses double-sided tape to mount the diamond plate to the metal blank. That allows him to remove the plate when he wants.
 
hey roger - what are you putting the bevel (in the last step) on your knives with?
 
I had one and loved it. I loaned it to somebody and never saw it again. Im such a good guy! The water stones cut like mad and the whole package is head and shoulders above the wimpy Lansky system with the diamond stones. The down side is the blades get scratched from the shelf they sit on. The grit gets under the blade.

I would think it would do the Scandi style blades like nothing else.
 
This is a little left of topic Rodger....but you might want to try my homemade sharpening wheel on standard blades. It won't do your hook, but works like the devil on a straight and curved blade. I love mine and in fact made a larger one over the weekend.

It's simple. Get a junk yard motor. Either thread the shaft of use a shaft adapter. Cut out two or three or four circles the size you need from press board. (It's like 50 or 60 sheets of paper glued together, not chipboard"

Glue your circles together and drill an arbor hole. Put it on the motor and true it up and sand the edge smooth. Load it with Green polishing compound and commence to sharpening.

You would be amazed at how fast it cuts and how little heat is generated.
 
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