• The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
    Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.

  • Today marks the 24th anniversary of 9/11. I pray that this nation does not forget the loss of lives from this horrible event. Yesterday conservative commentator Charlie Kirk was murdered, and I worry about what is to come. Please love one another and your family in these trying times - Spark

why 01 steel?

Good post, Pit (though I would still beg to differ about the EASE of proper heat treatment)... it should be quoted along side this...

Rick, I agree. 0-1 really needs a soak and a way to control your temp. I now have a Evenheat kiln, but I am going to experiment with a gas forge with a temp gauge to see if a forge can be controlled to hold temps at certain levels for a period of time.
 
Between the two — O1 and 1095 — which one is going to give a blade with the best properties (again assuming a proper heat treat)?

Bob... it's all relative to what you want from a knife. If you were a sailor you might want an extremely hard knife that could hold an edge forever. Cutting rope and line doesn't require battoning or prying so the knife doesn't have to be as flexible. A diver would want something with high resistance to corrosion. An SAR/EMS worker might want something he can use as a prybar in pinch...

If there was ONE STEEL that could outperform all others in everything, we would be using it exclusively, right? It's kind of like asking which knife profile is best for camp craft? There are advantages and disadvantages to everything.

Rick

Rick, I agree. 0-1 really needs a soak and a way to control your temp. I now have a Evenheat kiln, but I am going to experiment with a gas forge with a temp gauge to see if a forge can be controlled to hold temps at certain levels for a period of time.

I've got a thermocoupler on my Zoeller style LP forge and can get the temp heat stable.... but cannot get it even throughout the entire cavity. I may be looking into an Evenheat, come the New Year.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Bob... it's all relative to what you want from a knife. If you were a sailor you might want an extremely hard knife that could hold an edge forever. Cutting rope and line doesn't require battoning or prying so the knife doesn't have to be as flexible. A diver would want something with high resistance to corrosion. An SAR/EMS worker might want something he can use as a prybar in pinch...

If there was ONE STEEL that could outperform all others in everything, we would be using it exclusively, right? It's kind of like asking which knife profile is best for camp craft? There are advantages and disadvantages to everything.

Rick

Thanks, Rick. I suppose I didn't frame my question properly, but the question itself is one that I've had for awhile. I know that there can't be one "steel to rule them all," but for our application — W&SS type things — there are certain steels that get the nod most of the time.

When I first got out of the Marine Corps, I worked as a commercial diver for a couple of years (before I found out that advertising agencies would pay me to make pictures and write things, while letting me stay warm and dry at the same time). Back then I used knives (from 300 series stainless, IIRC) that wouldn't rust, period, but they sharpened about as well as a stick of butter, and wouldn't hold an edge at all. Didn't rust though. I wouldn't think of using one of those things for anything here on dry land.

Conversely, I wouldn't think of using one of my 1095 knives in a saltwater environment day in and day out. I do know that there are different steels, with different properties, for different jobs. I don't know the intricacies of steel selection and blade making, so I try to learn from people like you who actually do know.

My question really was that you makers seem to choose steels like 1080 series because it's easier to work with, and easier to heat treat: what makes O1 and 1095 more difficult to work with and treat? With proper heat treat, is one really superior to another for our bushcraft purposes?

I don't mean to be annoying, but I really don't know the answers, so I appreciate all the help I can get. I have knives in 1095 that have served me well, so I tend to keep buying them. I've never had one in O1, so i was curious as to what would make O1 superior.

Thanks
 
Dawsonbob......


There is no way I can explain it more thoroughly or intelligently than the Mete/Cashen types... so I will lay it down with one of my signature cheesy analogies... he he.

Think of steel as soup... okay, stop laughing. (or crying, in Mete's case) Think of the ingredients as the parts that can make up steel (iron, carbon, manganese, chromium, vanadium, tungsten, etc.) Some soups are simple and tasty like Vegitable (1070) and some are complex like Pad Thai (O1). ..... stay with me

The simple soups are easy to make. Just add noodles, broth, vegies and bring to a boil... done! Even if you undercook it, no harm, the ingredients are forgiving and can be eaten raw.

The complex ones need more care when preparing. Heat and time are important if the chicken/pork is raw. If you are using hot peppers, making sure they are cooked down is the best way to ensure even distributution of their effect. Spices need to be agitated into the mix by stirring or a gentle rolling boil. Certain ingredients have to be added at certain times because they all have separate cooking durations... to quickly end this painful comparison... there is a lot of work behind a complex soup like O1, er... I mean Pad Thai. Add to that, more of a chance to screw up along the way.

Does that mean that Pad Thai is better than Vegitable soup? It makes little difference to the restaurant patron how much work went into the soup... the only thing that matters is whether it "hits the spot" or not. That is the sad truth about knifemaking... sometimes all that hard work is only appreciated by other knifemakers The rest of the folks are more than happy with any knife that tastes good, er... I mean performs well.

Rick
 
Dawsonbob......


There is no way I can explain it more thoroughly or intelligently than the Mete/Cashen types... so I will lay it down with one of my signature cheesy analogies... he he.

Think of steel as soup... okay, stop laughing. (or crying, in Mete's case) Think of the ingredients as the parts that can make up steel (iron, carbon, manganese, chromium, vanadium, tungsten, etc.) Some soups are simple and tasty like Vegitable (1070) and some are complex like Pad Thai (O1). ..... stay with me

The simple soups are easy to make. Just add noodles, broth, vegies and bring to a boil... done! Even if you undercook it, no harm, the ingredients are forgiving and can be eaten raw.

The complex ones need more care when preparing. Heat and time are important if the chicken/pork is raw. If you are using hot peppers, making sure they are cooked down is the best way to ensure even distributution of their effect. Spices need to be agitated into the mix by stirring or a gentle rolling boil. Certain ingredients have to be added at certain times because they all have separate cooking durations... to quickly end this painful comparison... there is a lot of work behind a complex soup like O1, er... I mean Pad Thai. Add to that, more of a chance to screw up along the way.

Does that mean that Pad Thai is better than Vegitable soup? It makes little difference to the restaurant patron how much work went into the soup... the only thing that matters is whether it "hits the spot" or not. That is the sad truth about knifemaking... sometimes all that hard work is only appreciated by other knifemakers The rest of the folks are more than happy with any knife that tastes good, er... I mean performs well.

Rick

I like your analogy, Rick; it works pretty well (especially since I cook).:D

So, using your analogy, I get the feeling that something like 1075 is Top Ramen, and O1 or 1095 are the Pad Thai: they take more expertise in the cooking, but most people who don't cook aren't really going to appreciate the difference: they both taste good.

Taking this a little further (but losing the analogy), I gather that — for a woodland user — I wouldn't really see much difference between 1080 and 1095/O1: they both cut. The difference is in how they get to be cutters.
 
Think of steel as soup... okay, stop laughing. (or crying, in Mete's case) Think of the ingredients as the parts that can make up steel (iron, carbon, manganese, chromium, vanadium, tungsten, etc.) Some soups are simple and tasty like Vegitable (1070) and some are complex like Pad Thai (O1). ..... stay with me

The simple soups are easy to make. Just add noodles, broth, vegies and bring to a boil... done! Even if you undercook it, no harm, the ingredients are forgiving and can be eaten raw.

The complex ones need more care when preparing. Heat and time are important if the chicken/pork is raw. If you are using hot peppers, making sure they are cooked down is the best way to ensure even distributution of their effect. Spices need to be agitated into the mix by stirring or a gentle rolling boil. Certain ingredients have to be added at certain times because they all have separate cooking durations... to quickly end this painful comparison... there is a lot of work behind a complex soup like O1, er... I mean Pad Thai. Add to that, more of a chance to screw up along the way.

Does that mean that Pad Thai is better than Vegitable soup? It makes little difference to the restaurant patron how much work went into the soup... the only thing that matters is whether it "hits the spot" or not. That is the sad truth about knifemaking... sometimes all that hard work is only appreciated by other knifemakers The rest of the folks are more than happy with any knife that tastes good, er... I mean performs well.



That’s got to be the best post of the week. :thumbup: :cool: :thumbup:



Big Mike

”Scaring the tree huggers.”


Forest & Stream
 
I use 01 becuase I like working it, and because I have a furnace that makes the heat treating easy for me to get right. Its also a steel that was engineered for edged tools. If you go to Kevin Kashen's site, he describes it as an excellent blade steel. I like that its deep hardening, and requires a slow quench oil. 1095 requires that horrid gasoline like fast quench oil, and that stuff scares the hell out of me. You dunk a red hot knife into a bucket of warm gasoline. Hell no. Also, in my experience, that fast cooling is much more violent, reaction wise, and in my past I've had whole batches of 1095 blades that were trash because of hairline cracks. Plus, I'm not polishing out hamon's, so I have no use for those fast hardening steels.

I've recently started using some 440C, and I'm falling for that steel fast! Its easy to sharpen, holds an edge well, and due to that furnace, it isn't hard for me to HT. The best thing about it is the way it reacts to grinding. Grinds like butter! It won't steal 01
's place in my heart though. 01 is that good.
 
There are subtle differences that people find appealing. Properly HT'd O1 has greater potential in working hardness/toughness at 60-62RC (Hardness being the edge retention and toughness being the ability to withstand breaking/chipping.) 1080/5160 are considered "spring steel" and are very strong/tough when properly HT'd. The drawback being that the edge might not be as hard at 58RC... but that means easier sharpening... and I'm probably off on those figures.

It becomes confusing when makers try to find the ideal process to suit the desired use when, IMO they should find the ideal steel that suits the task.

Here is some food for thought on steel types.

Metallurgically speaking, heat treat is very "cut and dry"... there is a right way and a wrong way to do it.

Rick
 
Last edited:
So I get the impression that O1, well done, is going to beat the 1095 CroVan in, say, a Becker BK-2, all things considered. Eventually, if I ever get any money, I suppose I'll have to get something in O1, just to give it a try.
 
So I get the impression that O1, well done, is going to beat the 1095 CroVan in, say, a Becker BK-2, all things considered. Eventually, if I ever get any money, I suppose I'll have to get something in O1, just to give it a try.

Not necessarily true... some resources suggest 1095 may be a better suited steel for knives. You have to weigh the steel and the process together in order to figure out which best suits your needs. Know the maker and know the process... or follow the crowd, I guess.

Rick
 
Last edited:
Not necessarily true... many resources suggest 1095 may be a better suited steel for knives. You have to weigh the steel and the process together in order to figure out which best suits your needs. Know the maker and know the process... or follow the crowd, I guess.

Rick

Ah-ha! Thanks, Rick — that's exactly the kind of thing I'm trying to get a handle on. While I really like my BK-2 — I've beaten the holy living heck out of it, so I trust it — it's a little larger and heavier than I would like for some things. I was kinda thinking of getting something a little smaller when I get some money (I'm on a ridiculously small Social Security pension, so it may take some time). I was trying to research the different steels I might want ahead of time. I guess it depends to a large degree on who is making the knife for what purpose.
 
I can't add much more then has already been said only that O1 is one of the best oil hardening steels that a knife can be made from. I've made hundreds of blades out of O1 and it is a solid performer.
Scott
 
thanks guys for all the answers and info. the reason i wanted to know is that ive had my sights on breeden,jk,laconico and koster for some time(all great looking simple blades) and have heard great things about all of them. cant wait to own some of them!
 
Very cool thread. Why do you guys discuss such interesting things while I'm gone? I'm going to try not to upset folks with this response, but I've had 1070, 1080, 1095, O1, A2, 5161 in a variety of production/custom blades. In all honesty, I really have a hard time telling many of these blades apart based on the steel stamped or identified as what it has been made from.

When I say I have trouble telling them apart I am not saying its because they all perform the same. What I am saying is that the variation across three blades made out of O1 or 1095 is higher than the variation that I see between different knives. Heat treat is surely one dimension to this, but there are many other factors like the grind and edge geometry which figure into how I assess the blades performance.

Here are a couple of anecdotal observations I often make in this regard. How the blade sharpens. I understand you don't really test hardness by sharpening, but for a user like me, the way in which a blade sharpens seem to correlate with many of its performance attributes. On the one hand there are blades that feel stiff and almost 'ring' off when you are sharpening them. There are other blades that feel sort of muddy when you are sharpening them. I find the 'stiffer' sharpeners to be better performers (ability to get an edge and edge wear) and the 'muddy' knives tend to be very difficult to get an edge and to keep it. I don't think it has to do with wear resistance per say, as most of the high end stainless, VG10 and 154 feel muddy to me. Alternatively, I've encountered both O1, 1095 and the occasional Buck 420HC as 'muddy'. Some Bucks are also 'stiff'

One of the things I can say about RatCutlery and their 1095 steel is that every knife I get from them feels like the 'stiff' variety. From this company it seems like all of their knives perform the same and have little variance between getting a new knife from them and having it behave like I expect it will based on past performance. I have other 1095 blades from other manufacturers that don't perform the same at all. Alternatively, I have Rick's blade which is made out of 1080 for which lots of people slough off as a simple or inferior steel and yet it performs at a very high level (yeah here we go again with KGD giving Rick a public BJ on the forums again). It really does retain its edge, doesn't chip, takes a great edge and has that 'stiff' sharpening characteristic I like so much.

What I'm trying to say is that the 1080 blade is about one of the best performing knives I've ever had in its cutting performance even though it is written off as one of those simple steels. I also have a 1070 blade from Jimi Wade that behaves right up there with the best of them. On that Wade necker I do notice that its edge retention isn't as great, but it sure sharpens and takes an edge wonderfully. 1095 seems hit and miss to me across makers. O1 also seems to have a lot of variance in attributes. I've had O1 from the same maker in different knives perform quite differently.

So in the end I guess I like Rick's soup analogy, even if Pad Thai is a rice noodle dish not a soup (Tom Yum or Tom Kha Gai are the way to go!) :D More so than which soup I choose from, I'd probably select the chef who is making it or at least a trusted restaurant.
 
KDG, I agree with your observations about 1080. While at the hammer-in I spoke with the Vice-pres. of ABS and he told me that he had seen alot of good journeyman test results from the 1075/1080 from admiral steel. I just purchased 500 dollars of steel and most of it was 1095 because that is a steel everyone is familure with and I wasn't sure on the reaction to alot of knives built from the 1075/1080 steel.
Here is a little nasty peice of data that no one has talked about. If you buy from admiral, your 1095 may vary in carbon content from .90 to 1.04 !!! and 1075/1080 ranges from .70 to .88 in carbon content!!! So the spec range is very broad!
 
Love the soup analogy. Like kgd said, I try to choose my chef carefully and try not to worry too much about the blade steel.
 
I think rick's doing an excellent job explaining things.

I use primarily 1084, 15N20, 5160, and 8670M and they all heat treat well in my shop- I've done some O1 blades and they heat treated well enough, but not well enough for O1!

Steel and process definitely go together and shouldn't be considered separately when thinking about a knifemaker, or a knife.

So I'm not adding much but +1 here. Excellent job, Rick.
 
Back
Top