My take on this is that it's still rude as hell. At a picnic when you've got a hunk of salami to slice up? sure.
At a starred restaurant with a chunk of filet? Insulting to the chef regarding his ability to cook, and insulting to the owner of the place regarding their flatware.
I disagree, I have encountered several high end restaurants (steak houses and other types) where their flatware was awful, especially the "steak knives". As far as "insulting" the chef etc. I really don't care, if that offends them then they should have purchased better utensils in the first place and their ability to cook obviously IS lacking in some regards.