My chisel ground blades are the sharpest i own, and easiest to re sharpen. I can't see why this wouldn't apply to serrations as well.
That's not been my experience! My sharpest knives have been V-grind and I've never felt knives sharper than my Cold Steel Voyager (after a few swacks with the Sharpmaker). Despite my blade being five inches, the edge is so razor sharp that it easily cuts a paper to ribbons holding it only with one hand.
Even if you get chisel grind knives sharp, they don't tend to cut straight, and most of them put the beveled part of the blade on the left side, which means that to cut accurately, one has to be a south paw. If you attempt to cut, say, wood with a chisel grind of this type, the material being cut has to pass under the beveled area, which limits the angle you can cut with. If cutting rope, it really makes no difference.
To test knife sharpness, I use these big, thick rolls of toilet paper and cut from the side. My Gerber Paraframe barely cut to the cadrboard center, and my Gerber EZ-Out without serrations did substantially better, but no cigar. My CRKT Desert Cruiser was pathetic (it had a chisel grind) and took two passes to embed itself in the paper. The knives that went through these thick rolls like a light saber were: CRKT S-2, Cold Steel Voyager, Spyderco Native and Byrd Cara Cara. The Voyager and Cara Cara nearly split the roll in half with no effort. I was surprised they cut as deeply and as effortlessly as they did. Using the same knives yielded similar results cutting carboard with the Desert Cruiser faring somewhat better.
I've cut nylon cord, rope and stripped wire and, again, the Gerbers and Desert Cruiser did okay, but the others did much better. The knife that never fails to impress me bigtime, though, is the Byrd Cara Cara. I think that if someone took away all my other knives but the Cara Cara, that I could get along quite well. It's beautiful, rugged, sharp, well crafted, comfortable, easy to sharpen and strong. That they can be made that well for that cheap is really a modern marvel.
The chisel grinds may be fine for some people, but even if I could get one wicked sharp, I just don't like the configuration. It solves no problems and, as far as I can tell, primarily benefits the maker. There are some things a chisel grind isn't well suited for, but a V-grind seems suitable for anything, plus it's easier for the novice to sharpen.
Emerson's web site puts it this way: "Our knives are hard knives meant for hard users. We do not cut many tomatoes. Our tests and those of a major government agency determined that there was no difference between right and left side grinds for use as a tool or weapon. The left side was chosen for purposes of visual cue and reference."
If one used a chisel grind as a tool for exacting detail work, I think he or she would quickly discover that they lacked the ability to do precision work. So, yeah, if you're going to stick the knife into someone or cut their throats, I imagine it makes little difference what blade configuration is used. For me, I'll take V-grind any day because, despite what the CG advocates say, they're much more difficult to sharpen. I've been trying for months and have still not been able to do it.
Having the bevel on the right side makes more sense to me for
right handers.