Why carry a fixed blade knife ?

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My best guess is he's saying he cut's it in 2 pieces and makes sure it matches together like a puzzle so it becomes almost like a fixed blade. That's my best guess.

For cutting it out that I can understand what he saying more, he makes 3 pieces because if you have a block A--(cut)--B and it's 9in exactly and want a 9in piece of metal after cutting whatever he needs to cut afterwards it won't happen as the saw blade will be removing metal the same width as the saw blade. So there be a small variance even if he were to even use a bigger block and cut in the middle and try to join them together afterwards. So his solution is to have a A--C(cut to here, disposable piece)---B block, C being a dedicated area where he cuts to that point but leaves a chunk of metal so not to go in block B so blocks A & B are "perfect" and will fit together better. And these super tight tolerances when cut a certain way will create something that is almost like a fixed blade when put together if you have something secure them down as there will be almost zero play in theory. That is what I am guessing is going on.


Though I am kind of hoping I am not right because if I am I think this may be the knife's downfall because it would need some extremely tight tolerances to work as he desires in real world use. I fear dirt, grime, rust, etc would degrade the performance more so than practically any other common locking mechanism. And I question how the knife would hold up if I were to ever slightly damage it if were to put it to hard use with those tight tolerances it relies on.

Though this is the best guess at what he is saying, I am not 100% certain I fully understand what he is saying.

In woodworking it's called a Kerf, the thickness of your saw blade that you lose with a cut. I get all of the "Theory"
This was just right after Mikey stated that he wanted to talk about fixed blades.

Its starting to sound like we are dealing with more than one person again? So to stay on topic here.

You don't have to worry about a kerf with a fixed blade!
 
Laurence,
In an earlier post it appeared that you were surprised that I preferred fixed blades. That's why
 
Laurence,
In an earlier post it appeared that you were surprised that I preferred fixed blades. That's why

That's why? What? You are jumping all over here with your discussion.

So have you tested any of your fixed blade knives that you have had prototyped?
I remember seeing two that you said you had made in World's strongest folding knife Part II ?
 
Laurence,
These are my design. Made 1 Asian style Hunter 8"(top), and 4 Tactical's 9.25"(bottom). Elmax .180" thick from Alpha knife supply. I designed

them. Water-jet in Ft Lauderdale. The grind(almost full), HT(61RC), cryo was done in Montana. Carbon handle slabs I did here in my garage.

Black DLC(4000 vickers) at Richter Precision.

SSK_KNIVES_004A.jpg
 
marcinek,
The handle shape towards the end, the slight curve of spine and the blade shape.....my interpretation. I still have 2 large pieces of Elmax .200"

thick, 3" wide X 13" long. Gona make 2 large recurve Tactical Bolo's(58RC). If there's enough maybe 2 small skinners(62RC) also. Black DLC, Carbon handles,

416 fasteners.
 
marcinek,
The handle shape towards the end, the slight curve of spine and the blade shape.....my interpretation.

Huh. :confused: Looks like a Loveless drop point to me, but it's your knife. You can call it whatever you like. :thumbup:

You should stick to the fixed blades. You seem to have some talent/understanding for them. Folders...maybe not so much.
 
There are many reasons that some people carry fixed blade knives. The main reason is because they are stronger and have no chance of closing on your hand or the blade breaking off. I only carry a fixed blade when I go out in the woods or anything like that. I usually do not carry one for edc.
The steels that i prefer are for different knives. If I want a knife for hunting or fishing, I would want an aus 8 steel because of it being stainless and still holding an edge well. For a fixed blade that is larger or for wilderness survival, I would want 1095 carbon steel because of its toughness. But it also comes down to the heat treat of the blade. You could have an aus 8 steel knife that is harder than a carbon steel knife just because of a poor heat treated blade. Also 1095 is not stainless so you would need to use oil to keep it from rusting. I used to wonder the same thing myself about why people carry fixed blades.
 
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Laurence,
These are my design. Made 1 Asian style Hunter 8"(top), and 4 Tactical's 9.25"(bottom). Elmax .180" thick from Alpha knife supply. I designed

them. Water-jet in Ft Lauderdale. The grind(almost full), HT(61RC), cryo was done in Montana. Carbon handle slabs I did here in my garage.

Black DLC(4000 vickers) at Richter Precision.

View attachment 450285

Mike,
OK, have you done any field testing of these two knives? By the way, Carbon Fiber, G-10 and Micarta are nasty on your lungs etc. I trust you wear protective equipment when working them?
 
Laurence,
Using one of the tactical's for testing. Damn sharp, might be a bit heavy in the handle because of flat grind(almost). That Bucorp Unimax is very

interesting to me.....gona see if I can get some .250" thick for 3 large field craft designs(6" blade) Black DLC, Orange, Black, Brown..G10
 
singularity35,
I designed the shape/grind thickness. The grind(almost full), HT(61RC), cryo was done in Montana by one gentleman. Black DLC(4000 vickers) at

Richter Precision Pa. I made the handles and assembled.
 
singularity35,
I designed the shape/grind thickness. The grind(almost full), HT(61RC), cryo was done in Montana by one gentleman. Black DLC(4000 vickers) at

Richter Precision Pa. I made the handles and assembled.

Richter Precision in Pa, Or MT?

What other steels have you tested in a similar knife and fashion?
 
Laurence,
Spent some time in a machine shop working with H13, VMR 400, S7, S30V, 440C, .....not all were for knife application. I prefer larger knives and

tough/impact resistant steels with the around 56-58RC. Bucorp Caldie is also interesting it can get 60RC
 
Laurence,
I lost the grinders information in MT. Found it more cost effective to use someone already set up to grind, HT, sand, buff etc..... When I retire I will

set up a small rig for full tang fixed blades. Probably do HT and cryo myself as well.
 
For messy work...processing meat, prepping food, filleting fish, etc...fixed blades rule.
There's no where for guts and tissue and meat to collect.

But I still think folders are more than adequate for most folks needs.
Especially since most folks get by just fine with no knife at all.
 
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