Why Disk Sander ??

AVigil said:
I got a disc sander for my slipjoints so I would not need a surface grinder.

I lay it on its back with the disc horizontal and use it like a lapping plate to get things dead nuts flat
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AVigil AVigil have you ever used a disk to smooth the handle scale to bolster transition? I am thinking I may have to try that now, I have a knife I set aside because I took too much off the scale with the belt right before the bolster and I wasn't looking forward to fixing it. A disk may be the answer if I can keep the disk edge away from anything.
 
Jason Fry said:
Couple of things that haven't been said yet. They make "flat" and "one degree" disks. I have a flat one for... flattening, on an air conditioner motor with a bump switch. I have the one degree hooked up onto my VFD, so it's reversible and speed controlled. I use it for the blade grinding functions as mentioned in this thread. Both have their place, but I can say that I use the flat one every single knife, and the variable reversible one is a belt holder most of the time. On the other hand, the reversible is THE tool for the job, and gets used on the big bowies and sometimes the kitchen knives as well.
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^^^What Jason said! Variable & reversible disk 1” bevel disk sander . I had one that was stolen. You can still flatten scales on it just fine! Never have any dealings with Paulo Balzano . If heard he uses a different last name. Check out the Disk sander Trugrit sells.
 
Randy3000 said:
AVigil AVigil have you ever used a disk to smooth the handle scale to bolster transition? I am thinking I may have to try that now, I have a knife I set aside because I took too much off the scale with the belt right before the bolster and I wasn't looking forward to fixing it. A disk may be the answer if I can keep the disk edge away from anything.
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Sure that works great.

My preferred method is to put blue tape on the bolster and use 1" scallopped belts to bring down the scale material to just the point the tape is tagged by the belt. Then I use a sanding bar to blend the level of the scale flush to the bolster.

In your case you could also use a 2" scalloped belt and hang it over on the side of the scale and use a rubber contact wheel to bring down the bolster. The scallop will keep it from digging into the scale.
 
A couple of years ago, when I decided to change my blacksmithing focus to damascus knives, I asked Dave Lisch what he'd recommend me adding to my shop, a HT oven or hydraulic forging press, and he said he thinks every knife maker should have a disc sander.
 
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that to ensure you get a flat surface is to have the item being worked on flat against the Disc when you turn it on and don't remove the item until the disc STOPS spinning. One way to accomplish this is with a Foot Pedal so you can control the material with both hands and turn the sander on with the foot switch.
 
I went quite a while with no disk sander, but finally broke down and spent the $200 or so for motor, VFD, and disk. A disk sander is just like a milling machine or lathe, you'll find more uses than you ever thought of once you've got it. There are times when there's nothing that works as well - making a Wa handle is one of those things. A disk sander with adjustable work rest makes it a snap to get everything squared up and corners shaped.
 
It'll get it flat but not parallel (the comment about the center spinning at a slower sfpm) Similar to a jointer in woodworking. But we usually don't have a much difference in pieces like long boards with warps or bows so you don't need to take much off especially if you are coming off a belt grinder. Just take the top off get it flat and done.
 
Jrmysell said:
It'll get it flat but not parallel (the comment about the center spinning at a slower sfpm) Similar to a jointer in woodworking. But we usually don't have a much difference in pieces like long boards with warps or bows so you don't need to take much off especially if you are coming off a belt grinder. Just take the top off get it flat and done.
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That is where technique comes into play. If you keep the disc on slow and rotate the piece back and fourth you can get it parallel.
 
Busto said:
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that to ensure you get a flat surface is to have the item being worked on flat against the Disc when you turn it on and don't remove the item until the disc STOPS spinning. One way to accomplish this is with a Foot Pedal so you can control the material with both hands and turn the sander on with the foot switch.
Click to expand...


Speaking of which, I've been wanting to hook up a plug-in type of foot pedal to my VFD/reversible disc grinder, but I'm not sure how it will work with the VFD, or rather if it would be bad for it or not. My thought it that the foot pedal would turn the entire VFD complete on and off when you switch it either way. I know guys have them wired into their VFD so it works on the secondary on/off swtch (I think) rather than the main power on/off switch, but unfortunately I don't know anything about properly wiring most things and don't really want to practice on my expensive kbac VFD.

I remember hearing somebody say it would work, but I'm still weary about how it might affect the electronics on in the VFD, which aren't supposed to be unplugged before they finished shutting down since that can apparently jeopardize it.

Anybody happen to know if something like THIS (for example) would be able to work without potentially ruining a VFD?

~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)
 
coldsteelburns said:
Speaking of which, I've been wanting to hook up a plug-in type of foot pedal to my VFD/reversible disc grinder, but I'm not sure how it will work with the VFD, or rather if it would be bad for it or not. My thought it that the foot pedal would turn the entire VFD complete on and off when you switch it either way. I know guys have them wired into their VFD so it works on the secondary on/off swtch (I think) rather than the main power on/off switch, but unfortunately I don't know anything about properly wiring most things and don't really want to practice on my expensive kbac VFD.

I remember hearing somebody say it would work, but I'm still weary about how it might affect the electronics on in the VFD, which aren't supposed to be unplugged before they finished shutting down since that can apparently jeopardize it.

Anybody happen to know if something like THIS (for example) would be able to work without potentially ruining a VFD?

~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)
Click to expand...

I have used a foot peddle on my vfd disc from day one. It works great and I use it all the time as do others
 
coldsteelburns said:
Speaking of which, I've been wanting to hook up a plug-in type of foot pedal to my VFD/reversible disc grinder, but I'm not sure how it will work with the VFD, or rather if it would be bad for it or not. My thought it that the foot pedal would turn the entire VFD complete on and off when you switch it either way. I know guys have them wired into their VFD so it works on the secondary on/off swtch (I think) rather than the main power on/off switch, but unfortunately I don't know anything about properly wiring most things and don't really want to practice on my expensive kbac VFD.

I remember hearing somebody say it would work, but I'm still weary about how it might affect the electronics on in the VFD, which aren't supposed to be unplugged before they finished shutting down since that can apparently jeopardize it.

Anybody happen to know if something like THIS (for example) would be able to work without potentially ruining a VFD?

~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)
Click to expand...
I use that same pedal for disc and have one for my portaband saw also. Two tools that benefit from foot pedal operation where it allows you to use both hands to control what you're working on.
 
I like the "power maintained" foot switch. THat way I do not have to keep my foot on the peddle to keep it on. I just tap it on and tap it off.
 
Busto said:
I use that same pedal for disc and have one for my portaband saw also. Two tools that benefit from foot pedal operation where it allows you to use both hands to control what you're working on.
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AVigil said:
I like the "power maintained" foot switch. THat way I do not have to keep my foot on the peddle to keep it on. I just tap it on and tap it off.
Click to expand...

So you guys are saying that the plug-in foot switches are safe to use with a VFD (specifically kbac series)? Do the concerns I mentioned happen make any sense? lol

~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Just some older videos of some knives I've made in the past)
 
i use those too, harbor freight sells momentary(on while you press it) and on-off 120v footswitches for about $16.
 
I would like to repeat my question aboutdust collection. Especially with the the rosewoods, i am pretty concerned about this issue...
 
Cushing H. said:
I would like to repeat my question aboutdust collection. Especially with the the rosewoods, i am pretty concerned about this issue...
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They make a mess and I haven't really come up with a great way to collect the dust with mine. I clamp a shop vac hose near the bottom quarter (whichever direction the disk is spinning) to get the bulk, but the only real solution is a quality respirator. No dust collector is a replacement for a respirator.
 
E.Carlson said:
They make a mess and I haven't really come up with a great way to collect the dust with mine. I clamp a shop vac hose near the bottom quarter (whichever direction the disk is spinning) to get the bulk, but the only real solution is a quality respirator. No dust collector is a replacement for a respirator.
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I was kind of afraid of that :(. I do use a respirator all the time - its the cleaning up around the shop that will take a hit!
 
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