Why do so many knives not have a scandi grind?

353 said:
You don't have to sharpen it this way. In fact I think it is more common for scandi knife users to lift the blade a little when doing touch ups so that you hit the apex and create a little microbevel. This method was also descriped(and pictured) in the small booklets that came with my Helle knives when I bought them years ago. I don't know if they still do though.

A lot of scadi grinded blades comes from factory with a miocrobevel already on there.

Maintaining the scandi grind, sharpening the whole bevel, is just something you need to do once in a while to maintain the grind.

Off course some guys swear to maintain the true scandi and go over the full bevel every time, but IMO this is just not necessary.
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I agree a micro-bevel can make a scandi-grind survive a bit longer and make touch-ups faster.

There are arguments that this by definition is actually a sabre grind, but I sorta go both ways on the topic.
 
3D Anvil said:
You actually have to remove a LOT more material to sharpen a scandi, as you have to remove material along that whole fat bevel.
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That's false.

Here's a procedure where you have to remove more blade material to sharpen an FFG.
1. Get an FFG knife with only these 2 grinds. The FFG is 10 degrees. The ege is 40 degrees.
2. Where the grinds intersect, measure the blade thickness (x).
3. Find a scandi knife with one grind (a 40 degree edge) and a thickness less than x.
4. Dull both knives.
5. Sharpen only the primary edge on both knives.

questions: Is it easier to sharpen a Scandi or an FFG? Which sharpening removes more steel?
answers: Either or both.

If you only sharpen a primary edge on an FFG, you will eventually get a fat edge. Sometimes sharpening involves grinding the whole FFG.

Popular construction knives seem to all be scandi. The types I know of are utility, snap-off, and chisel.

Carbide teeth on a circular saw blade and face mill inserts look scandi.
 
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seacucumber said:
That's false.

Here's a procedure where you have to remove more blade material to sharpen an FFG.
1. Get an FFG knife with only these 2 grinds. The FFG is 10 degrees. The ege is 40 degrees.
2. Where the grinds intersect, measure the blade thickness (x).
3. Find a scandi knife with one grind (a 40 degree edge) and a thickness less than x.
4. Dull both knives.
5. Sharpen only the primary edge on both knives.

questions: Is it easier to sharpen a Scandi or an FFG? Which sharpening removes more steel?
answers: Either or both.

If you only sharpen a primary edge on an FFG, you will eventually get a fat edge. Sometimes sharpening involves grinding the whole FFG.

Popular construction knives seem to all be scandi. The types I know of are utility, snap-off, and chisel.

Carbide teeth on a circular saw blade and face mill inserts look scandi.
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Or you could skip all the stupid math crap, ditch your scandi blades and enjoy completing your task with any other knife you want just as easily and probably better.
 
Scandi grinds are for Bushcraft. They are thick behind the edge so they would be terrible for “slicing vegetables”. EDCing a scandi would be like using off-road tires when your work commute is all interstate highway.

Why don’t people use filet knives to make feather sticks?
 
I was wowed by how good my first mora was in wood, and it was so easy to sharpen. Just lay it on its bevel, sand paper and a piece of wood was all I needed and it shaved easily. I did not have to learn free hand skills to maintain the angle myself.

Fast forward, now that I can sharpen using a varitey of methods and have much experience in reprofiling edges to thin them out. You can make almost any knife do well in wood. (Obviously there are limitations)

I still have a mora floating around some where. I'd take a ffg over scandi any day, it is just more utilitarian.
 
unwisefool said:
BECAUSE IT'S THE BEST! 🧐 Please pay attention. Vegetables actually slice themselves when they see a scandi coming. Fruit is a different matter, very rebellious.
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An AD-10 with a scandi grind would be the best knife ever, hands down. The knife world would explode if such a thing existed.

On a more serious note, I find my main scandi knife (Mora Kansbol) adequate for food prep. It does the job just fine, but I could probably do the job faster with a full flat knife. The shape of the latter makes for a more efficient cutter, encountering less resistance as it slices through media.
 
Bob Denman said:
Once a microbevel is created: is it still a scandi grind?
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Maybe. My Mora Eldris came with a micro bevel. If Mora adds one, I'm thinking it must be legit.

I tried the Eldris without the microbevel. I found I didn't like the pure Scandi because the edge didn't stand up to my daily cutting chores, so I put the microbevel back and was much happier. A microbevel is very easy to add. So a microbevel on a Scandi kind of gives you the best of both worlds. Really easy to sharpen. Holds the edge pretty well. I don't recommend a Scandi for kitchen work or slicing cardboard. But it works fine for other things.
 
I have some putty knives and scrapers that are scandi ground but I’m not taking them out to the woods to bivouac. I am certain that most knife people consider scandi knifes to be thick for heavy use like batoning, and chopping. They are thick behind the edge.

You can try your thin razors and utility blades and scalpels but I doubt they will hold up to the heavy use.
 
I sense a "I know everything and why don't you agree with me" flame out coming, this guy is special.

On topic, get a big blade for chopping and splitting, pair it with a Mora (or other scandi) and you have all your outdoor needs covered.
 
unwisefool said:
BECAUSE IT'S THE BEST! 🧐 Please pay attention. Vegetables actually slice themselves when they see a scandi coming. Fruit is a different matter, very rebellious.
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Simply stating that its the best, which you already did, isn't a reason. Explain why you think that, and maybe someone will pay attention. Personally I find that when the fat part of the blade reaches the vegetable, resistance increases greatly. The peeled section of vegetable sometimes breaks off. A full flat grind seems to penetrate through the vegetable more easily. I often take my Mora Companion camping, and use it for food prep, but that is because it was dirt cheap, and easy to keep clean in the field, not because it actually cuts better.

Also I note that we are still having this discussion about sharpening a Scandi grin by running the whole fat bevel across the stone. I would never do that, in fact I doubt that it would even sharpen the knife, because of the existence of a micro bevel at the edge. And if you don't have a micro bevel at your edge....why not put one on? It will make sharpening a whole lot easier.
 
I don't really like scandi grinds. That is probably because my use includes very little woodwork or bushcraft.
 
I bought my first ever knife with a Scandi grind a few years ago. I haven't bought another since then.
 
A scandi grind would be my last choice for most cutting tasks. Especially food prep.

A microbevel makes a lot of sense to me on a scandi grind, but you still have to do the entire flat section to keep the edge from getting too thick.

Its how I sharpen my saber grinds and ffg blades too, although they have more than a microbevel.
 
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