WHY do you guys want a convex edge on your Satin Jack?

Great thread guys! This is why I like to come here. That and the oddities. Josh is always full of great experience. I couldn't agree more with him regarding the PBF's especially.

Realistically, I don't see much difference between a fully convex edge and a flat-ground with a zero-edge put on it. I doubt most people will be doing a full sharpening (full-side stock removal) of their SJ Tac, especially if they get it coated. It should have slightly more lateral strength, but.. I'm just thinking out loud here.

I spent a load of time with various sandpaper and a mouse pad and put a zero-edge on my SHE. It's a sharp bugger. I wish I could've had it in 5/16" though. The only problems I've had is that I may have made the edge a bit too thin for a robust blade and it's very much harder to steel rolls out of the edge.

Cheers,
BJB :D
 
lol :D


ive done that on most of my knives as well. i keep reading where people use 18 degree's and lower on their choppers, calling it a "good working edge". my experience with infi is that if you take it lower then 24 degree's, after 3 hours of chopping, your going to have to steel out at least 2 dings, or some rollover. at 24 degree's its pretty sturdy.


the sharpest ive ever made a knife was on a little 3/16" dcbb assault shaker, that may as well have had a zero edge with how thin it was near the cutting edge. i brought it down to 21 degree's, and it was very, very close to unusably sharp. just to little metal in the cutting edge to maintain itself on anything hard. hitt a plastic button, or even the corner of a hardwood cutting board and it got a very annoying to remove ding in it...

but man........ that thing was sharp.... press it on skin and it would sink in, no slicing, very little pressure... you had to be really carefull when using it...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top