- Joined
- Dec 4, 2001
- Messages
- 3,824
Peter, I don't know what else I can add, as I've only recently begun welding damascus, but I will pass on some of what I learned from Bruce E.
One thing to check is the forge environment, is it oxidizing, neutral, or carbonizing? I've found that for my forge to weld it has to be slightly carbonizing and I have no trouble. If you are getting a lot of scale and little flame out the opening of your forge, up the gas pressure without uping the air pressure, if you are getting a lot of scale and you have a lot of flames coming out of the forge opening, shut the fuel down a little. Also as mentioned a coat hanger helps, but some steels need to be a little hotter such as 5160 and 52100 which have Chrom. in them.
I spent several hours not long ago trying to weld some 5160 in a billit and every time it poped loose. I was running low on propane and the bottle kept freezing up and lowering my pressure, and hence my forge would go from carbonizing to oxidizing before I could get it welded. Next day I refilled my bottles and had no trouble.
I don't bother to grind unless there are pits that can trap flux and havn't had a problem yet, but I am not stacking very many pieces at once.
As for putting L-6 on the out side, havn't had a problem with that eigther, yet.
One more thing, you need overlapping hammer blowes, and as mentioned, light, solid blowes to set the weld. And the larger the billit, the longer the soak time needed, but also the longer it retains heat.
Also, when heat treating let the forge and the blade come up to heat together as a hot forge and cold blade can cause a shock to the blade.
Once you get the hange of it, it is not that hard, keep at it and if at all posible visit someone who makes damascus to get a little hands on. Just watching someone weld is a big help.
Good luck,
William
One thing to check is the forge environment, is it oxidizing, neutral, or carbonizing? I've found that for my forge to weld it has to be slightly carbonizing and I have no trouble. If you are getting a lot of scale and little flame out the opening of your forge, up the gas pressure without uping the air pressure, if you are getting a lot of scale and you have a lot of flames coming out of the forge opening, shut the fuel down a little. Also as mentioned a coat hanger helps, but some steels need to be a little hotter such as 5160 and 52100 which have Chrom. in them.
I spent several hours not long ago trying to weld some 5160 in a billit and every time it poped loose. I was running low on propane and the bottle kept freezing up and lowering my pressure, and hence my forge would go from carbonizing to oxidizing before I could get it welded. Next day I refilled my bottles and had no trouble.
I don't bother to grind unless there are pits that can trap flux and havn't had a problem yet, but I am not stacking very many pieces at once.
As for putting L-6 on the out side, havn't had a problem with that eigther, yet.
One more thing, you need overlapping hammer blowes, and as mentioned, light, solid blowes to set the weld. And the larger the billit, the longer the soak time needed, but also the longer it retains heat.
Also, when heat treating let the forge and the blade come up to heat together as a hot forge and cold blade can cause a shock to the blade.
Once you get the hange of it, it is not that hard, keep at it and if at all posible visit someone who makes damascus to get a little hands on. Just watching someone weld is a big help.
Good luck,
William
