Why hasnt Cru Forge V caught on?

Kentucky

Kentucky

Joined
Dec 13, 2008
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I did a lot of research into this steel about a year ago but had so much other stock like Aldo's 1084,1095 etc that I never ordered any..Reading my other thread where I found out it use to be called 1086V got m to thinking again..
I just wonder why it hasnt caught on..On paper it looks like a real nice knife steel..Everyone Ive talked to that has used it loves the fine edge it takes and its edge holding ability..
Is it the fact that its foolishly hard to sand? Or has the hamon craze held it back since its a deep hardening steel? What do you think?
 
I think part of it was it came out about the time crucible went under and no one wanted to do the work on a steel they didn't know if was going to be available.
Stan
 
Not sure, I think that with so many of us, it's either that we a) started with something and we're encouraged to stick with it, or b) have found something we like, and want to specialize in it.

I mostly use 1084/15n20 for Damascus, and Don Hanson's W2 for monosteel blades. I've dorked around with 1095, 5160, L6, and whatever else has come my way, but definitely have plans to branch out. Cru Forge V, and CPM 3V are the two I'm most interested in personally.

In the end I think it's just that this craft of ours encompasses so many different skill and tool sets, and the road to perfection with just one flavor of metal can be so long, that it make sense to stick with whatever you know best for many. Personally I'm more interested in having fun, than chasing absolutes, but I've got a wicked tenacious streak that gets me caught up on details for long periods of time, so I know how it can take a hold of you.
 
For me, being a stock-removal maker, it's only because I can't seem to find Cru-ForgeV in barstock less than 1/4" thick. I've tossed out the idea of trading some of it to a hammer jockey in exchange for them forging some down to 3/16" or less for me and got no takers, not even a nibble.

I really love the idea of a high-carbon "plain" steel with a generous splash of vanadium, but 1/4" thick knives are very expensive for me to build, and frankly they sell about like ice cubes in January. If it was available in thinner stock, I'd be on it like white on rice.

It's a darn shame, really. On paper, and according to smiths I respect and trust, it's an excellent steel.
 
Yea, its supposedly a great steel..Its out there and readily available..Has been for a while but you just dont see it used much..Easy heat treat too...
 
Shhhhhhh. You will let out the secret of the real super steel.




(That ought to get everyone to order a piece)
 
I have used it and am impressed with everything except it's rust resistance, which is worse than O-1. Hand sanding it will remind you of 3v (for those who have tried 3v), which tells you a bit about it's abrasion resistance. It's chemistry is close to 52100, with a bit of vanadium.
I think most smiths are just traditional enough to not take too quickly to it, and stock removal guys have plenty of other choices that come in more user-friendly sizes, Cru-Forge only comes in 3 sizes of bar which work for smiths but less well for stock removal guys.
 
is there a place where this is available beside midwest knifemaker supply?

thanks

jake
 
I got a bunch from Alpha a bit ago, bars in 1-1/4" round. I've not gotten to play with it yet. I'm looking forward to it though. I think there may be a grain of truth in that comment about shallow hardening steels being in vogue, with the hamon craze and all. For deep hardening steels, 52100 has eclipsed most in recent years, and for sheer wear resistance people have been turning to 3V. CruforgeV just hasn't had a lot of major makers working heavily with it that advocate it yet, either.

Right now is a good time to buy it, though. It's pretty dirt cheap at Alpha last I checked.
 
I got a piece of it in a give away at another site. Made a drop point hunter with the piece. Cleaned and peeled my two deer with it last week and still hair shaving sharp.
 
I think that the Crucible meltdown did worry some people. With that said, they did make at least 40 or 50,000 pounds of the stuff. I had a really not so fun time trying to hand sand the stuff, but Dan Far told me that if I didn't leave it quite so hard, it was easier. I was quenching in Parks 50 (DON"T try this with super thin small kitchen knife sized blades) and tempering at 400F. By bumping the temper up to 425F, it made it easier to sand. The stuff takes a NASTY edge just using a belt to set the edge and minimal "cleanup" on a cheap tri-stone and 10 or so swipes on the leather hone. From what I saw even with my disaster tring to quench a super thin kitchen knife in #50, it has very fine retained grand structure even when it is irreparably damaged by quench shock.:D As for th thcikness of the stock, it was made spcifically for us metal pounders. My gripe is that they made 1, 1 1/4 and 2 inch flat bar, but no 1 1/2 inch, which is one of the most common sizes that we seem to use. John Perry has made a little bit of damascus with it using 15N20. He says it cuts like mad, but it etches gray instead of black. I suspect the chromium is the culprit but don't quote me on that. My palsn for the 200+ lb batch that I have is to eventually make kitchen knives and field knives with it and perhaps use a "forced" patina or coating of some kind.
 
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I only tried 1 piece, it was good, but not good enough to switch from the W2 im currently using... and I have 1000+ lbs. of that.
 
Do you guys think it would make good Kitchen Knife stock. I understand that there was some billet left out of the original pour. I'm wondering if it's worth having it rolled down to thinner sheet.
 
Aldo Bruno said:
Do you guys think it would make good Kitchen Knife stock. I understand that there was some billet left out of the original pour. I'm wondering if it's worth having it rolled down to thinner sheet.
Click to expand...

Yes, do it. Then, send a big tube of it to your best freund, Danbo! :)
 
Aldo Bruno said:
Do you guys think it would make good Kitchen Knife stock. I understand that there was some billet left out of the original pour. I'm wondering if it's worth having it rolled down to thinner sheet.
Click to expand...

Hard to say. I wonder how big the carbides are. If they're small and well distributed it might work
very well.
 
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