Why no guard on fixed blades?

Another vote for the anti-gaurd crowd.

There's alot of knives out there that I'd be completely satisfied with and would buy if they just didn't have the massive gaurd there! Case in point: Buck fixed blades. The majority of Buck's classic fixed blades have these massive gaurds, If I could find a Buck 119 or 130 without the gaurd I'd be happy and could go on using one of those till it was lost or broken.
 
here is one I use and it is great, http://www.jaysknives.com/blackjack/BlackJackSmallHunter.jpg
the early ones have a cocobolo handdle and are made in Seki, Features:
Blade Material: AUS-10 Stainless Steel
Handle Material: Cocobolo Wood
Blade Length: 3-1/8"
Overall Length: 7-1/8"
Weight: 3.5 oz

here is another that would work great, Russian knife, ball bearing steel, super sharp, light weight, great handle

http://www.worldknives.com/images/dynamic/products_1803_2_original.jpg

and there is the ESSE 3, another great one for your specs
http://www.eseeknives.com/ESEE-3.jpg
 
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Obsessed with Edges said:
The 'perfect' blade for clamshell packages, IMO, is something like a sheepsfoot/wharncliff blade...
Cutting force, with such a blade, is applied downward (towards the edge), instead of pushing lengthwise into the plastic. The issue of your hand/finger slipping down the handle and into the blade is moot, with a blade like this.

The same could be applied to just about any small blade (like a pen blade in a SAK, for example)...
So long as the tip is kept sharp, the thin blade geometry makes a much better choice for a task such as opening plastic packaging.

A thick blade (1/8"), such as would be found on many fixed blades (even small ones), is generally going to have a fairly thick & blunt tip anyway. If you're trying to use it for pushing into & opening clamshell packs, that blunt tip is going to be the biggest problem, as opposed to the lack of a guard/choil.
Click to expand...
:thumbup::thumbup:
I do hope the OP takes these suggestions under advisement.

Also, to the OP, Buck's finger guards are not exactly expansive (e.g. Buck Woodsman) - more protection is had from a deep rounded choil which serves as an integral guard as well as pivot-point for the index finger, while also providing a slimmer profile to the knife allowing for easier carry and less obstruction when slicing (and when sharpening).

If you insist on a more prominent guard, various makers and manufacturers offer "loveless" and Randall-style hunting knives that might fit your preference - check Cold Steel, although I don't think they offer s30v...

If an integral guard/choil is sufficient, both Buck and Gerber offer inexpensive small fixed S30V blades (e.g. Gerber Freeman); Benchmade offers the more expensive Activator in D2 and S30V, closer to the Dozier-style (which are generally 'guardless' by your assessment), and along the lines of the Activator are various neck knives offered by makers & manufacturers at a variety of prices (and quality levels) which is probably the wisest choice as an urban fixed EDC blade, imho.

Conclusions:
1) for clam-shell plastic, you want a thin blade, and the better technique negates much need for a guard.
2) guards on smaller blades are a style-thing: they offer less protection and more obstruction in use than a well implemented choil.
3) for urban fixed-blade EDC, low profile is a good thing.

Just another $0.02
 
SVC said:
One of the main uses to which I put my knives are opening those infernal clam shell packages
Click to expand...

I use sheet metal shears to cut those things open. Gave up on knives for clamshells.
 
Wow, not a lot of love for the guard! :eek: I guess the answer to my question is that people don't put half guards on knives because no one wants them! :)

I've got a couple of small fixed blade knives I've been considering for EDC including a Strider PR and an Izula 2. Both have fairly deep choils and fairly grippy handles, much like that beautiful Coye Ridgeback posted by Harkamus.

The issue I have with this style is that the rounded choil acts like a ramp leads your fingers over the the rise and into the blade. For those who felt a guard is too clumsy, I wasn't thinking of the big Randle style guard, something more like the knife someone (sorry - can't remember your name!) posted on the first page, the Becker 11, I think. It doesn't protrude anymore than a choil and shouldn't get in the way anymore than a choil would, but the 90 degree bend acts as an affirmative stop for your fingers.

So, maybe I'll try out the Becker and count myself lucky that there's anything out there.
 
Helle Speider 05 cost about $45.
Lightweight, comfortable grip &
easy thumb open snap if on rh side.
HelleSpeider.jpg


Several BRK&T smaller patterns with guards.
If the anti-guard crowd convinces you, even more Barkie choices.
All come with your preferred synthetic handles in several color choices.

Journeyman RLM std handle. Present series also w/sabre or apple handle.
RLMjrnymnLhs.jpg


Escort boot knife:
EscortBOOTLHS.jpg


Huntsman about to be rereleased, small w/stout blade if new version
retains same stock as FPR. Clampack won't stand a chance.
AmbHntsmnLhPrfle2.jpg


Nonguard model I suggest a Woodland Spcl.
New mini Fox River same style even smaller.
AIMwdlndLhs2.jpg


Hope this helps
 
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not seeing the need for a guard for dressing or clamshell packaging opening.

fighters have them because a defensive(or offensive) stab is a hectic, sweaty, heat of the moment, adrenaline pumping moment. Your grip is ever changing, as well as you and your target's position. the guard saves your fingers.

I don't know about you, but opening up hard plastic packages is slightly more controlled for me :D there's no wild stabbing, moving targets, etc... I've NEVER even remotely had a problem with a controlled stab of a difficult material like those packages, even on slim, slippery handles...
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
The 'perfect' blade for clamshell packages, IMO, is something like a sheepsfoot/wharncliff blade, such as might be found in a traditional folder (like a stockman). Cutting force, with such a blade, is applied downward (towards the edge), instead of pushing lengthwise into the plastic.
Click to expand...

If you're using a knife, probably right. But the "perfect" blade is not on a knife. It's on the Zibra Open It! tool that features offset cutting jaws. I'm referring to the jaws, not the silly little blade that retracts into the handle. Cheap, and works like a charm. I got mine from a local electronics store. They sell them in drug stores too.

http://www.amazon.com/Zibra-ZPCOPEN-Universal-Package-Opener/dp/B000IHHOVI
 
It might be fun to peruse some custom knife maker sites, or attend a knife show. Lots of makers would be happy to make you one with a nice big guard.:thumbup:

fortier1.jpg
 
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