Why not a chisel grind for bushcraft?

Fonly said:
No, its an edge that was sanded and not stroped, but you wouldn't know that sense you dont know how to sharpen, right?:D

Also, its not butter soft, I dug up a nail with little edge damage. Get your facts straight bud.:rolleyes:
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Here, let me fix that up a little for you...

"No, it's an edge that was sanded and not stropped, but you wouldn't know that since
you don't know how to sharpen, right?"

The nail you dug up had little edge damage?

English as a second language? ;)

Stay sharp (as you can),
desmobob
 
desmobob said:
Here, let me fix that up a little for you...

"No, it's an edge that was sanded and not stropped, but you wouldn't know that since
you don't know how to sharpen, right?"

The nail you dug up had little edge damage?

English as a second language? ;)

Stay sharp (as you can),
desmobob
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wow, english is your first eh?, at least you know how to spell, I guess you have to compensate something for not knowing a thing about knives?

Thats fine, once you know a thing about whats going on, and not trying to find the slightest thing against me, come back.
 
Fonly said:
wow, english is your first eh?, at least you know how to spell, I guess you have to compensate something for not knowing a thing about knives?

Thats fine, once you know a thing about whats going on, and not trying to find the slightest thing against me, come back.
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I can see you base your posts on silly assumptions. I won't waste my time arguing with you. :jerkit:

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
Fonly said:
Your just A dick, thats why you dont try new things, for whatever reason your way is the only,:yawn::D

ignorance is bliss I guess.
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Well, sometimes I am. But regardless, I do try new things whenever I find something new that doesn't sound too bad. I've tried chisel ground knives, but found the performance unimpressive as compared to Scandi ground and convex ground knives for example. Even you said the chisel grind is "not optimal", so why would I want to use it rather than something that works better? :confused: Trying and testing would seem like valid reasons to me, but I see no reason to use one long term in actual work, since better knives are available. But hey, I'm not trying to stop anyone else from using a chisel ground knife if they feel like it. I was simply answering the question of the original poster - he seemed to want opinions on chisel ground knives.
 
Elen said:
Well, sometimes I am. But regardless, I do try new things whenever I find something new that doesn't sound too bad. I've tried chisel ground knives, but found the performance unimpressive as compared to Scandi ground and convex ground knives for example.
Not arguing that, sorry if you took it that way

Even you said the chisel grind is "not optimal", so why would I want to use it rather than something that works better? :confused:
Again, never said I would rather use a chisel, your complete rejection of it is what I was going against, it does work, I've used it, and reviewed it.

Trying and testing would seem like valid reasons to me, but I see no reason to use one long term in actual work, since better knives are available. But hey, I'm not trying to stop anyone else from using a chisel ground knife if they feel like it. I was simply answering the question of the original poster - he seemed to want opinions on chisel ground knives.
again nether am I, I would RATHER use a full flat ground knife, but it works fine.
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Im not saying its the best out there, its just not as bad as some make it out to be.
 
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desmobob said:
I can see you base your posts on silly assumptions. I won't waste my time arguing with you. :jerkit:

Stay sharp,
desmobob
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Silly? what does that even mean compared to what I said to you, you went at me on my grammer, not actual experience I have showen with everyone, Im glad you dont want to argue because your input is annoying at least of the best of times, sorry man.:thumbdn:

also unless you have some pictures or something to show me why you dont like it so much, or if you have some type of useful input aside from nit picking at my grammar, dont bother posting, no one likes trolls.
 
Chisel grinds can be wonderful. My draw knives are chisel grinds, of course. I've done some vegetable knives in chisel, the "planing" tendency is very useful there.

I've made a few chisel grind carpenter's knives, having the dead flat 'back' makes it great for marking along a straightedge or chiseling on small cuts.

I've considered making a few chisel grind neckers specifically because they have distinct advantages to go along with the disadvantages- I'd be very happy to have one in my kit, but not as my only knife, nor my primary 'bushcrafter'.

I have sitting on my desk an experiment without a home. a spearpoint convex chisel blade that - well, 1: it's right handed so a bitch for me to test, and 2: for me, personally, I'd prefer a wharncliffe style or a low drop point in a chisel. But the idea still intrigues me plenty.
 
Fonly said:
Silly? what does that even mean compared to what I said to you, you went at me on my grammer, not actual experience I have showen with everyone, Im glad you dont want to argue because your input is annoying at least of the best of times, sorry man.:thumbdn:

also unless you have some pictures or something to show me why you dont like it so much, or if you have some type of useful input aside from nit picking at my grammar, dont bother posting, no one likes trolls.
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I guess it has to be explained to you...

In post #20 you assumed I "don't know how to sharpen" knives. In post #22 you assumed I'm "not knowing a thing about knives."

I don't believe we've ever met or discussed knives or sharpening, so those are silly assumptions; baseless and insulting. In another post, you refer to Elen as "a dick" and ignorant. You're a real ambassador of the knife world!

Anyway, I know better than to argue with fools. I'm done.

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
What degree of the angle of grind would be on a chisel grind knife ? take the scandi for example. Both sides of the classic grind are 12.5 degrees. Add that up and you get 25 degree total. My guess is that most chisels would be ground at 12 - 15 degrees? if that is the case the scandi grind will be a stronger blade simply because there is more material on the final edge. The traditional grinds ( flat, convex, scandi) will also be more symetrical. I would think the advantage for all around knife tasks and strength and cutting ablitity would lay with the traditional grinds. True a chisel may cut well, but is it as strong as a scandi ?
 
I used to not look twice at a knife ground on only one side but I'm starting to like the simplicity and think they are kind of neat. I think I will make a quick and sloppy large bushcraft type knife with a chisel grind and test it out. It'll be 12 degrees inclusive with a convex microbevel from a strop on the flat side.
 
I've used a chisel ground Santoku in a professional kitchen for years and love it. I'd say I've made hundreds of thousands of cuts with it. Its great on soft materials, not great on hard foods like pumpkin or cheese. It wants to bite too deeply and it will drift. I'm guessing the same for woodcraft. Like a chisel, it will do fantastically well for shallow cuts and drawing down the wood. But I think you'd lose it when you wanted deeper cuts. The V shape allows you to change directions better. The rounded handle on a chisel and perpendicular(to the handle) cutting edge lets you flip the blade for a different orientation and blade geometry. A knife can't do that unless you're ambidextrous. I'd say stick with the scandi, or convex your scandi. I gave my BHK Boattail a work out this morning making a fire drill with some redwood for the hearthboard and fir for the spindle. I'm loving this knife, but lets say my just say my knife skills are better than my fire drilling skills. :grumpy:
 
It's ALIVE!


Edit: For usefulness sake, I will be trying out a chisel ground Kiridashi. I'm curious to see how it does. I don't think a chisel grind is perfect, but having worked with chisels before, I can see it being useful anyway.
 
I didn't like 'em till I got this one to try out.
Right side grind makes all the difference.
I have convex,scandis & V grinds from FBF,Wohlwend,JK & the Bussekins to name a few & this chisel grind from Daniel Fairly cuts with the best of them IMHO,I was pleasantly surprised to say the least.I even have another on order I liked it so much.
It's guess it's just a matter of personal preference & experience.
I don't have a hell of a lot of experience bush crafting,but do camp a lot & have used all the above mentioned knives on day trips & camping.

I should add that I have an Emerson with the left side grind & couldn't even sharpen a pencil with it comfortably.
It sits in the drawer unloved.

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m. wohlwend said:
What degree of the angle of grind would be on a chisel grind knife ? take the scandi for example. Both sides of the classic grind are 12.5 degrees. Add that up and you get 25 degree total. My guess is that most chisels would be ground at 12 - 15 degrees? if that is the case the scandi grind will be a stronger blade simply because there is more material on the final edge. The traditional grinds ( flat, convex, scandi) will also be more symetrical. I would think the advantage for all around knife tasks and strength and cutting ablitity would lay with the traditional grinds. True a chisel may cut well, but is it as strong as a scandi ?
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Good question. Surely I'd invest in a good honing steel to shape a rolled edge straight again before removing any material. I wonder what heat treat and steel would be ideal... I would not consider a chisel ground knife as my ONLY bushcrafting knife, but as an auxiliary tool for specific purposes.
 
I have Mykel's knife's brother in blue. It's setting in one of my woods bumming bags right now. It will absolutely devour most wood working chores. Time will tell if I still like it


In contrast to Mykel's post, I have an Emerson chisel ground knife, and enjoy cutting with it. Even wood. It's a little tricky, but it still does what I need it to.
 
CKE2 said:
After carrying my little Puukko for over a month now I am really liking the scandi grind I put on it. Other than letting it get waaaaay to dull and having to sharpen the heck out of it the other night to get it back up to standard that was my only complaint....and totally my fault.

I was thinking, a chisel grind(bevel one side only) would be "basically" the same. Could this be a viable option for say a small PSK knife? There is no secondary bevel and other than it being angled on one side I don't see the difference it would make. You would have to grind it on the correct side depending on whether you were right or left handed so the angle for say doing a fuzz stick was not too obtuse(or the other kind of angle I can't remember right now:p) Sharpening would be even a little easier as you only sharpen the one side and just lick the back side to remove the burr.

What do you folks think???
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Take that chisel grind and whittle fuzz sticks with each hand and you'll notice a big difference in performance. Chisel grinds are "directional" in their use when it comes to woodworking and notching. Not that it cannot be done, it's just not optimal for most people and really thick or steep chisel grinds are even more difficult to work with in my opinion.
 
I got a couple Horton chisel grinds and have no problems with them. they hold it down very well in the woods.
 
I make and use a modified chisel grind for bushcraft, everyday carry knives. They work well, mainly because of the grind angle. I have a modifed tip which is steeper then the cutting edge and is very hard to break off even if you used it as a spear tip. blade edge geometry is 15 degrees from edge to final grind and I leave a small amount on the sides at the very top.

(a series of blades made similarly where you can see the grind angles best as well as point)



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other blades used for self defense can be enhanced by having the flat side and tapered angle flat grind like this one here....



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What is important is to look at how you are going to use it and what you need and then create the necessary angle for those set of parameters. I like this on some blades because the tip can be thicker where it counts. A Japanese kiridashi blade used for utility work is a good example. It has a straight edge which is used to run along a straight edge for making cuts- and it is very sharp and cuts things well, which is what I want a knife for.
 
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