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Why Scandi ?
- Thread starter old4570
- Start date
My test also, but using different, simple sharpening. Diamond hone 600 grit for reprofiling; multiple grades of emory paper on paint paddles for general sharpening (600 1000, 1500).
20+ years of ceramic rod + No effort to maintain scandi = Micro bevel ..
I checked your maths, and I got:
20+ years of ceramic rod + Micro bevel = No effort to maintain scandi
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My laser goniometer says that my Kansbol has a primary grind of 11 degrees per side and no secondary bevel.
I cant tell you what Mora was doing in the 70's .. ( Micro bevel ) The first was a carbon Mora brought over by my aunt , and the second was a SS brought over by my uncle ..
I switched from the Carbon to the SS because of all the staining the carbon suffered . As to edge geometry ? Back then I didn't care or worry about it , if the knife was sharp = I was happy !
I only started caring about edge geometry about 10 years ago ..
And about 5 years ago ( about ) edge retention became a thing for me ( chase performance ) .
I can understand why people don't care , because I certainly didn't for a long time ( edge geometry or performance )
+ After 20+ years of ceramic , it was a micro bevel . And the knife does not look like it has had 20+ years or more of use .
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My first Mora ( Carbon ) , brought over from Sweden by my Aunt .. 1977/8 I was in Highschool back then . It be 2023 now .. For at least 12 years the knife has had no use due to the influx of Chinese knives . ( Into my collection of knives )
My second Mora ( Frosts ) , stainless .. Brought over from Sweden by my uncle .. ? 81 to 83 ( I dont remember exactly any more ) ..
By 85 this was my go to knife for stuff that stains a lot .. This knife went where I went till around 2009 ..
So 24 years of use (?) , there about . Sharpened with a very fine ceramic rod I got in the early 80's from a cutlery store .
So , a very micro micro bevel on it . The carbon knife was used at home for non staining duty till the age of Chinese imports . ( When I started )
So again quite a lot of use .
Neither knife has significant wear from many decades of use .. And ceramic sharpening !
Is this from a lot of use or just a lot of abuse ? Just glad I didn't go down this route .
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I have knives of pretty much every type of grind. All other things being equal a scandi grind will outperform a flat grind in wood carving/woodwork and a flat grind will outperform the scandi doing the rest of the camp kitchen jobs.
The scandi grind is basically like a power assist when working with wood and the only real downside is that it needs to be sharpened more often than a flat grind, all other things being equal. I have a lot of budget Moras being used for shed knives, so they get used for whatever, because they're always handy.
The scandi grind is basically like a power assist when working with wood and the only real downside is that it needs to be sharpened more often than a flat grind, all other things being equal. I have a lot of budget Moras being used for shed knives, so they get used for whatever, because they're always handy.
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At one point I might have succumbed to the Mad Mora collector gene and gotten a bit out of control, in part because they weren't very expensive. I have a couple more that aren't in that photo and a couple more that I'll probably get some day in the not too distant future.
I only have 16 Mora's ...........
Only a few were purchased as collector knives ..
Picture 1 ( Top )
Garberg / Mora 2000 / Possibly 100 year old Mora By tang stamp / and two more wood red handled .. The far right being a 70's Laminated . & The possibly 100 year old one looks to be laminated as well .
The old one is at least 91 years old to maybe 108 or so years old ( ? ) . Time period for tang stamp . I own most Mora's out of curiosity .
There are far more interesting Mora's out there for collecting . If you have deep enough pockets ! That old Mora , was a happy accident ! I was really after the 70's Mora Laminated ( Always wanted one ) and the old one was part of the package .
I thought it a junk knife till I researched the tang stamp and cleaned up the knife . It actually looks to have never been used . The sheath was so crusty , it literally fell apart . ( A shame ) ..
When I got the knives in the mail , I thought the sheath looked to be 100 years old .... I never imagined I might be right .
Picture 1 ( Top )
Garberg / Mora 2000 / Possibly 100 year old Mora By tang stamp / and two more wood red handled .. The far right being a 70's Laminated . & The possibly 100 year old one looks to be laminated as well .
The old one is at least 91 years old to maybe 108 or so years old ( ? ) . Time period for tang stamp . I own most Mora's out of curiosity .
There are far more interesting Mora's out there for collecting . If you have deep enough pockets ! That old Mora , was a happy accident ! I was really after the 70's Mora Laminated ( Always wanted one ) and the old one was part of the package .
I thought it a junk knife till I researched the tang stamp and cleaned up the knife . It actually looks to have never been used . The sheath was so crusty , it literally fell apart . ( A shame ) ..
When I got the knives in the mail , I thought the sheath looked to be 100 years old .... I never imagined I might be right .
So, proper sharpening of a Scandi, with no secondary bevel at all, requires keeping the grind flat on the stone throughout the sharpening. I personally find that a PITA when getting to the belly of the edge. Not impossible, perfectly do-able, just a PITA compared to how quickly and easily I can touch up other edges.
And, if you get a micro bevel, you have to remove a lot of material to re-profile back to a perfect Scandi.
And, if you get a micro bevel, you have to remove a lot of material to re-profile back to a perfect Scandi.
Pretty much ...
You do what you want ! Cos a micro bevel is not going to impact on how the knife feels when cutting .. ( Well , as long as it's micro )
Convex edges feel nice on wood , but the edge retention is ?
And a normal 18 to 22 deg edge feels , almost as nice on the same knife .. The difference is .............. micro !
The last thing anyone should care about is some one else's opinion ! The only thing that matters is that your happy with your edge and that it works for you !
It' a completely different matter , if it's not working for you !
+ Once you have a proper scandi edge , it is easy to maintain ! ( true of any edge ) .
Just might be a bit of a pain getting there ..
My Mora 2000 was a PITA to get there ..
If you have diamond sharpeners , they can speed up the process .
Oh yeah, agreed. Just my input as to me. I'm actually finding it interesting reading about you doing the microbevel and doing fine for years. As you say, replacing the knife is inexpensive and isn't necessary anytime soon. I might retire my Mora to yard work again and do the same, TBH.
What‘s a phone book?
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The one thing about scandi grinds is that if don’t have a perfectly flat surface to sharpen on you’ll ruin your grind. And that’s hard to fix.
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I prefer the very thin stock Moras like the clipper model for scandi. I don’t like it when they get >1/8” thick. I run my clipper on the sharpmaker on the 15° setting and never had a problem. It probably makes a microbevel but I don’t care. The knife is $14 and easy to keep sharp that way.
