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why sharpen a chainsaw chain/blade?q
- Thread starter eccvets
- Start date
Nope, that doesn't click with me. Disagreeing unanimously doesn't require being an asshole. That's all I'm saying.
If one can cut clean wood, a chain can last longer between sharpenings. However, they can go dull in an instant if they touch a rock or sand. When that happens, stop don't go on any longer, sharpen up and then continue, your saw will thank you and so will your back.
I get my firewood in 10 bush cord loads from the logging truck. It's mostly white birch, often there is sand, dirt and some gravel stuck on and between the logs much of which cannot be seen, and this can really take the life out of chainsaw chains.
Keep your saw clean, blow it out with the air compressor regularly to get rid of the saw dust and crap that builds up in there. This stuff is the death of chainsaws as it prevents proper cooling, and too much in there will compromise the chain oil causing the chain to sieze (usually when you need it the most, like half way into a dangerous tree).
A few sticks each day keeps the fuel truck away.
I get my firewood in 10 bush cord loads from the logging truck. It's mostly white birch, often there is sand, dirt and some gravel stuck on and between the logs much of which cannot be seen, and this can really take the life out of chainsaw chains.
Keep your saw clean, blow it out with the air compressor regularly to get rid of the saw dust and crap that builds up in there. This stuff is the death of chainsaws as it prevents proper cooling, and too much in there will compromise the chain oil causing the chain to sieze (usually when you need it the most, like half way into a dangerous tree).
A few sticks each day keeps the fuel truck away.
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Yes, they are treated like our utility blades/box cutters. They are sold in large quantities, like buying a box of 50, so they can be disposed of when dulled.
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Another good reason to sharpen it yourself is to set the depth to the wood you're going to be cutting. You can get a lot more life out of a blade when cutting hardwoods if it isn't set too deep - less chance of kick-back as well. When cutting a lot of softer wood, you can get through a lot of wood fast if the depth is bit deeper.
I must admit, when I lived in the city and burned mostly old hardwood pallets in my woodstove I made it several years without needing a new blade and then I just bought a new one. When I moved to a few acres on a heavily wooded lot, things got a bit different. Had to do a lot of sharpening and a lot of cutting. No way I was paying for a new chain every month or two.
HH
I must admit, when I lived in the city and burned mostly old hardwood pallets in my woodstove I made it several years without needing a new blade and then I just bought a new one. When I moved to a few acres on a heavily wooded lot, things got a bit different. Had to do a lot of sharpening and a lot of cutting. No way I was paying for a new chain every month or two.
HH
Keep the old chain. Don't throw it out. Pay $4.50 or so and get it sharpened at the saw shop. If you hits a rock with your new chain you can quickly change out the new chain and reinstall the sharpened up old one and keep working. That's what people do if they don't like resharpening.
Good luck with the new chain.
Good luck with the new chain.
I live in Hawaii right now and there isnt any saw shops to resharpen the chain. If there was one, it would probally cost nearly if not more to sharpen a chain then buy a new one. I would also question the workmanship and quality of a resharpened chain. I am also using a 10 inch chain pole saw to just prune small trees instead of doing super heavy duty cutting so buying a new chain is probally the best thing for me if I need it to be sharpened. I prune trees like onces a year if that and these are small branches im cutting, not trash can sized stumps. BTW: I dare you to find anything more bad ass then a chainsaw on a 20 foot pole. makes for killing zombies that much more fun...
David Martin
Moderator
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O- eccvets, don't let it get to you . Some on this forum have done me the same way . Its not this way on other forums . DM
ssblood
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Sharpen often, get used to how it's cutting when it's freshly sharpened and as soon as you notice it slacking stop and sharpen. You won't need somewhere to take the chain to if you do that. You can buy an Oregon jig with files for 20 dollars. Like everyone else said just watch the drags, or dremel them off
Chaps and watch the youtube video on kickback. I've personally never had one actually kick back and I couldn't hold on to but I tend to use smaller saws. Now if I had the 362 I've been wanting...
BTW, I really think the DMT kit would make sharpening a saw alot more pleasurable..
Chaps and watch the youtube video on kickback. I've personally never had one actually kick back and I couldn't hold on to but I tend to use smaller saws. Now if I had the 362 I've been wanting...BTW, I really think the DMT kit would make sharpening a saw alot more pleasurable..
james terrio
Sharpest Knife in the Light Socket
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I know almost nothing about chainsaws, but I do know that sharp tools are safer and perform better than dull ones, and routine maintenance is less expensive than replacement. It's really that simple.
I must say the "sell your saw, hire a beaver" comment in the second response pretty much summed it up. :thumbup: Despite what we may read or hear, keeping things sharp is just not that difficult!
I must say the "sell your saw, hire a beaver" comment in the second response pretty much summed it up. :thumbup: Despite what we may read or hear, keeping things sharp is just not that difficult!
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My family also uses wood exclusively to heat our home. I live in Florida which gets a lot colder than many think, but I still probably use less wood than most. Also, have a wood stove with a fan which is much more efficient than a fireplace so that helps reduce the amount of wood used. Still, I must cut quite a bit of wood through out the year to get ready for winter and to also just clear brush and down fall on our wooded lot.
I too, also used a blade until it was dull, then used it some more until I finally bought a new chain. But while in Home Depot I saw a Dremel attachment for 10 bucks that has 3 different size cylindrical stones and a attachment to help keep the correct angle. A pass or two on each tooth has it back to sharp and I can sharpen an entire chain in about 5 minutes, probably less. I know this probably goes against what many people think about learning to upkeep your tools, but I can get a chain just as sharp as a new one (from what I can tell) in just a few minutes and with no skill or prior knowledge on the subject. Using it just makes sence and I have not had to buy a new chain in years and have a couple spares from when I would pull the old dull one with a ton of life left and put on a new one. The dremel attachment is cheap and I have yet to wear out a bit. It was a great, cheap investment that makes a hazardous job quicker and safer.
I too, also used a blade until it was dull, then used it some more until I finally bought a new chain. But while in Home Depot I saw a Dremel attachment for 10 bucks that has 3 different size cylindrical stones and a attachment to help keep the correct angle. A pass or two on each tooth has it back to sharp and I can sharpen an entire chain in about 5 minutes, probably less. I know this probably goes against what many people think about learning to upkeep your tools, but I can get a chain just as sharp as a new one (from what I can tell) in just a few minutes and with no skill or prior knowledge on the subject. Using it just makes sence and I have not had to buy a new chain in years and have a couple spares from when I would pull the old dull one with a ton of life left and put on a new one. The dremel attachment is cheap and I have yet to wear out a bit. It was a great, cheap investment that makes a hazardous job quicker and safer.