Why steel a knife when you can hone and sharpen at the same time?

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Dec 18, 2009
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After learning to sharpen I'm kinda baffled as to why you would ever steel a knife again when it's generally just as easy to whip out a hard Arkansas or a fine grit stone, or better yet your sharpmaker on fine rods and do a couple of passes getting rid of burrs and sharpening at the same time. Why steel ever again when it's generally just as easy to resharpen?
 
Funny thing: I've always talked crap about steeling, and I just tried it an hour ago just for the heck of it. It did work to get my knife a bit sharper.

Sometimes when your knife is dull, the edge is rolled rather than broken up. If you steel, then you can straighten it back out. Yeah, it's kinda half-assed (it doesn't last very long; it almost seemed like a burr the next time I cut with it), but I guess it can help to prolong the lifetime of the blade (because you aren't really grinding steel away when you steel [lol]).
 
Steeling can really refine an edge, but my experience has been that after a couple of steelings, the edge life goes down dramatically. Me2, however, has a recent thread on steeling, and he's getting great results, you might want to look that up.
 
We've discussed this before . Steeling prolongs the edge without metal removal thus adding longer life to the knife . Sharpening creates a edge by metal removal . DM
 
After learning to sharpen I'm kinda baffled as to why you would ever steel a knife again when it's generally just as easy to whip out a hard Arkansas or a fine grit stone, or better yet your sharpmaker on fine rods and do a couple of passes getting rid of burrs and sharpening at the same time. Why steel ever again when it's generally just as easy to resharpen?

We've discussed this before . Steeling prolongs the edge without metal removal thus adding longer life to the knife . Sharpening creates a edge by metal removal . DM

best answer for why one would steel a knife.
 
More to the point, steeling on the kinds of more forgivingly tempered steels from which kitchen cutlery is usually made, produces exactly the kind of sharpness that will take a transparent sliver off a tomato, but won't stick in your finger bone if you slip whilst chopping :):lol:

And, more than merely aligning/tuning, you can actually sharpen some kitchen knives on a steel, and not just cheapo junk either :)
 
When i need to do a large bunch of kitchen knives, i will whip out the stone or sharpmaker. But when i just need a quick touch up on a knife, i'll use a steel. Depends on the situation, if i need it sharp quick theres no need to run and get the stone.
 
I like ceramic rods, very high grit. works better for me than a steel, though in a pinch you can get a couple cuts out of a steeled edge.
 
Has everyone forgotten about stropping? That removes little or no metal, straightens the edge and removes the burrs!
 
We've discussed this before . Steeling prolongs the edge without metal removal thus adding longer life to the knife . Sharpening creates a edge by metal removal . DM
My viewpoint exactly, and the main reason that I seldom sharpen otherwise than using a steel.
 
We've discussed this before . Steeling prolongs the edge without metal removal thus adding longer life to the knife . Sharpening creates a edge by metal removal . DM

That is not entirely true. Steeling definitely removes metal. Take your steel and drag the lines across some high-polished metal surface in a perpendicular fashion and see how that polished surface will get scratched.

Everybody seems to believe that a bent edge will just get bent back or something, but it's not exactly what happens when you steel. The bent edge, or actually, rolled edge, is like a burr. Steeling the edge will bend it back, like when you hammer a bent nail back straight, but the steel will also remove metal in this process. In addition, when steeling for extended perioeds, the edge angle will become less acute and that is why one must resharpen a steeled edge from time to time, to get that original edge geometry back to standard.
 
Here are the conclusions from Verhoeven's experiments using the Tru Hone & Razor edge smooth steels

1 These experiments confirm the recommendation of Juranitch [2] that optimum edge
formation in the steeling process requires the use of only a few strokes at a light pressure.
Using more than 2 back and forth strokes led to a roughing of the edge by break-off of
ledges along the edge of the blade.
2 The steeling process does not offer an improvement in edge quality with respect to
edge straightness, edge roughness or edge width over that obtained with the fine 1000 grit
Tru Hone wheels, and is slightly detrimental.
3 With 600 grit aluminum oxide wheels (and presumably with coarser such wheels) the
honing does produce a dramatic improvement in edge roughness and straightness and a
small improvement in edge width, from around 2-3 μm to 1.5-2 μm.
4 The SEM micrographs show that the action of the steeling on the 600 grit blades is one
of wrapping the bur formed by the wheels around to one side of the edge and deforming
it up against the face. The net effect is a slightly straighter edge with significantly
reduced roughness in face views and a more uniform and slightly thinner average edge
width in edge views.
5 With the 600 grit blades no significant effect was observed for changing the steeling 2β
edge angle from 50 to 70 degrees on blades with an as-ground edge angle of 39 degrees.
6 The work on the 1000 grit blades that showed ledge breakout with increasing number
of passes presents strong evidence that the edge of the blade is very susceptible to
fracture as well as plastic deformation in the steeling process. This conclusion is quite
reasonable when one realizes how thin the blade is right along it edge.
7 All of the blades that were studied here had a 2β edge angle of close to 40 degrees. In
blades where the edge angle is reduced to lower values, like 20 or 30 degrees, the stresses
produce by the steeling process at the edge will be higher due to the thinner edge widths
below the outer edge. It is likely that to avoid edge breakout along the edge in these
cases steeling would require only a couple very light strokes, with a 2β edge angle of no
more than 10 degrees above the as-ground edge angle.
8 It also seems likely that the hardness of the blades might have a significant effect on
the occurrence of edge breakout during steeling. Hardness values above HRC = 60
would increase the occurrence of breakout above that found here, and values below 60
would decrease occurrence.
 
which roughly translates as: yes, steeling does/might work, but offers only marginal benefits in some conditions, notably on softer steels, often used in kitchen knives.
One thing not yet mentioned is metal fatigue, because of the bending and aligning of the steel edge. The edge gets weaker because of steeling.

Also, there are steels used for aligning the edge through pressure (often times these contains small ridges for higher localized pressure) and there are steel rods that are actually abrasive. Sharpening, by many understood as taking away metal, is only possible with abrasive steel rods or ceramic rods
 
I've found steeling is most effective on my Chicago Cutlery kitchen knives. I've tried different folders and non-kitchen fixed blades with mixed results.
 
There is a time and place for almost everything.

Personally when I see a chef serving prime rib it just seems appropriate to see him/her gracefully steel his blade between each pass.

Similarly I know a few master meat cutters and for some reason they steel frequently as they work. Perhaps it has something to do with steeling creating little or no chaff that must be thoroughly cleaned off before returning to food prep?

Watch a meat cutter or chef steel a blade...it lasts 5-20 seconds. Unless your sharpening media is there set up at the service, you can not do it as fast, and if you can, you may end up with an edge that was not as good as what the chef/meat cutter had prior to steeling. Sure there are exceptions, but many of the people I have described and seen are VERY knowledgeable about their craft and have reasons for doing everything they do.

I am not claiming steeling is a replacement for sharpening. I am stating that there are times when sharpening is inappropriate or inconvenient and steeling is better than not, and far better than rushing a polished edge over abrasives.
 
There is a time and place for almost everything.

I am not claiming steeling is a replacement for sharpening. I am stating that there are times when sharpening is inappropriate or inconvenient and steeling is better than not, and far better than rushing a polished edge over abrasives.
Hey unit, I agree. I found when I steeled my umnumzaan I could bring it back to razorsharp. No need to put any abrasives against the steel.
Your remark about polished edges and steel sounds very reasonable. Sometimes an edge only needs a little bit of 'pushing it back into shape', especially when the (polished) bevel has not been damaged with scratches and the only thing that has happened is that the edge rolled over a bit or is less straight

For kitchen knives it's even simpler since mine are very soft steels.
 
I use decent (old) carbon steel knives in the kitchen. I steel after each use, 3-4 swipes. It takes a few seconds and my knives rarely need sharpening. They seem to need sharpening more frequently if I don't do this. Plus that "paper thin tomato" sharpness. My wife won't use my knives, they cut her.
 
Steeling can align edge without removing metal, but it must be done properly and fairly frequently. A smooth steel is what I prefer. I detest the file like steels that come with most kitchen blocks today, though they will work in a pinch. If you can get rid of all the metal shavings and burrs left from making them. I've been EDC'ing my Spyderco Delica and using just a steel to maintain the edge, and it's worked now for a couple of weeks. My current smooth steel is the side of my Faberware chef's knife.

For steeling to work, there are a couple of requirements.

First, the blades cannot be too hard (more on that later, I've got some HSS knives to try before I make a decision on this). Verhoevens conclusions above make sense that more damage would be seen on harder steels, but it still may be possible to steel harder edges and postpone a full burr forming/metal removal sharpening. IMHO, this requirement mainly applies to Japanese style, low included angle, very hard edge knives.

Second, the knives must be used on material that is not capable of significantly abrading the knife edge. This applies to kitchen use, butcher knives, and hunting knives that don't encounter the fur, and some others I don't know about. In these uses, corrosion and edge rolling are the primary reasons for dulling.

Third, the steel must be used fairly frequently. There is no benefit when steeling to wait months at a time until the edge is actually worn off, or rolled to the point that steeling will just break it off.

Knives I tried steeling before my latest experiements were in this category. It's no wonder I decided steeling was not useful and essentially a waste of time. The frequency will be dictated by the use of the knife. Professional use may require daily steeling, or more. Home kitchen use may only be weekly. A good hunting knife may make it through one or two animals before needing it. I usually keep my kitchen knives arm shaving sharp. I found in my last round of tests that when they start to scrape instead of smoothly shave is the time to steel. Waiting longer will still see improvement, but doing it at this time will bring the edge back to almost as sharp as it started. I was able to steel the edge back to tree topping sharpness a couple of times, and the knife I tested still has not been to the Sharpmaker or stones.

I use decent (old) carbon steel knives in the kitchen. I steel after each use, 3-4 swipes. It takes a few seconds and my knives rarely need sharpening. They seem to need sharpening more frequently if I don't do this. Plus that "paper thin tomato" sharpness. My wife won't use my knives, they cut her.

My opinion at this point is this is the optimum way to use a steel. Those who use ceramic plates and glass cutting boards have a special place in knife re-education camp. Even these will roll the edge more than wear it, they are just much less forgiving and can roll the edge so much that it breaks off when steeling is attempted, or before.

Knife edges in the kitchen will encounter material that will corrode the edge off, and it may be frequent use of the steel removes this and prevents it from ruining the edge as quickly. For this reason, I prefer stainless kitchen knives.

On another note, frequent use of steels may be able to shorten the life of the knife. I'll have to think about this a bit and get back.
 
This is such a hot topic and a lot of good information come out . Thanks to the contributors . DM
 
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