Why Strip Blade Finish Off?

[FIUman]

I've heard the arguments before but I'd be interested if something new has emerged to the question: Why strip the factory surface finish off of a carbon steel blade? What is the function of removing the finish that serves to prevent the blade from rusting? Is this purely a asthetic act? Is there some fear of movement of the components of the surface finish into food? What if the blade is quite obviously not going to be used for food prep, like, say a Becker BK-9? Interested in your responses to this in advance and thanks for your input.

 

[Danke42]

Why not just buy a blade without coating?

 

[David Mary]

Surely varies by individual. Some coatings are also kinda bumpy or coarse and can add friction to a cut, so removing it will improve cutting ability.

 

[SwissHeritageCo]

Unrelated but related, I have some screws I'd like to strip the black coating off.

Can anyone tell me if acetone will work? I think I might also have some mineral spirits.

 

[Alberta Ed]

Surely varies by individual. Some coatings are also kinda bumpy or coarse and can add friction to a cut, so removing it will improve cutting ability.

That's why I stripped my Kabar Mark1 deck knife. Looks better without the black gunk, too. A light coat of Vaseline keeps rust at bay.

 

[ferider]

Unrelated but related, I have some screws I'd like to strip the black coating off.

Can anyone tell me if acetone will work? I think I might also have some mineral spirits.

What kind of coating, J. ? Nitride Oxide ? If that you need to use an acid but be careful. Usually easier just to replace the screws.

 

[ferider]

Surely varies by individual. Some coatings are also kinda bumpy or coarse and can add friction to a cut, so removing it will improve cutting ability.

This.

Plus, some coated blades are cheaper than uncoated (e.g, Busse).

I also don’t like when the coating is removed partially by use. And coating hides rust.

 

[knarfeng]

Unrelated but related, I have some screws I'd like to strip the black coating off.

Can anyone tell me if acetone will work? I think I might also have some mineral spirits.

What kind of coating, J. ? Nitride Oxide ? If that you need to use an acid but be careful. Usually easier just to replace the screws.

To ferider's comment I will add that if it's epoxy, you might be able to remove it with acetone and a brass wire brush, but also might not. Mineral spirits is unlikely to have an effect.

 

[The Zieg]

F FIUman The coatings of my BK-15, Carbon V SRK, and Mk 1 USN got in the way of my thinning the edges on those knives. I also like to see the patina on carbon steel.

SwissHeritageCo I would try a small cup of acetone/nail polish remover on the screws, but you might have to put some elbow grease into them afterwards.

 

[AntDog]

Instant sexiness. That’s my reason. From this:



To this:



Here’s another. Coated:



Nekkid:

 

[SwissHeritageCo]

What kind of coating, J. ? Nitride Oxide ? If that you need to use an acid but be careful. Usually easier just to replace the screws.

Probably black oxide yeah, but I'm not exactly sure what kind of coating it is. They are screws on a kizer fixed blade handle.

 

[Steely_Gunz]

I don't MIND a coating, but it's there to protect the knife from something that I will protect it from anyway. Mitigating rust can be done other ways than by painting it. A lot of time i'll leave it until it starts to wear unevenly or i find that i am having to coat 1/3 of the blade in order to protect it from what is gone. Then it gets stripped, patinaed, and used some more.

 

[eveled]

I tend to thin and refine my blades, so the coating would have to be removed first. Plus most coatings chip off. It’s not hard to keep a blade from rusting. The edge isn’t coated so you have to keep it from rusting anyway.

Usually I find coatings hide poorly finished blades. Manufacturers know they can skip surface finishing. I try to avoid coated blades.

 

[ShaiHulud]

Avoid coated blades if you dont like them and go for more permanent finished like stonewash or satin. I dont like bead blasted due to the higher tendency to collect moisture in the divots caused by the blades and a stainless knife can/will start "chicken poxing"
If thats the knife you want and it has a finish, unless you know what youre doing I wouldn't, also make sure the knife comes from a maker with integrity so you won't have to worry about concealed poor blade finishes as mentioned above. Just my .02

 

[David Mary]

I call it “truck bed coating”. Because that’s where it belongs. In my opinion.

 

[ferider]

also make sure the knife comes from a maker with integrity so you won't have to worry about concealed poor blade finishes as mentioned above. Just my .02

As long as the maker tells you what to expect and prices accordingly, there is no issue with integrity.

And, as per AntDog , instant sexiness

 

[knarfeng]

I tend to thin and refine my blades, so the coating would have to be removed first. Plus most coatings chip off. It’s not hard to keep a blade from rusting. The edge isn’t coated so you have to keep it from rusting anyway.

Usually I find coatings hide poorly finished blades. Manufacturers know they can skip surface finishing. I try to avoid coated blades.

A rougher surface beneath paint is more than just cost cutting. The rougher surface serves to increase paint adhesion. Just like you scuff-sand a metal down spout before painting it with house paint. It increases the surface area and provides nooks and crannies the coating can mechanically lock into. Organic coatings do not have a great affinity for metals, so you need to give them all the help you can.

 

[eveled]

True enough, but I’ve seen some first hand that were way beyond scuffed. With really thick coating filling in gouges and voids.

Like 2” of bondo on a 68 Charger.

 

[Mk-211]

True enough, but I’ve seen some first hand that were way beyond scuffed. With really thick coating filling in gouges and voids.

Like 2” of bondo on a 68 Charger.

 

[Danke42]

Good patina there