why strop?

http://www.handamerican.com/lhone.html

The above post is interesting, in that it describes a method for determining the correct strop angle for any blade, regardless of included-angle edge grind.

I quite agree that the Lee Valley package is an excellent value.

"What leather to use?" is another interesting topic, particularly for stropping without using any added abrasive. Per Keith at HandAmerican, leathers differ in the amount of natural 'silicate' inclusions. More silicate content = more naturally abrasive leather. His claim - not mine.
 
Gollnick said:
Exactly. I recently saw an interesting demonstration in which a stropped knive was able to perform several impressive bits of cutting, but had great difficulty with manila rope.
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Stropping compounds come in as wide a range of grits as hones, from about 80 grit (very coarse) to < 1 micron (~8000 grit very fine). Pick the one suitable for the particular cutting task. Of course if you pick one which isn't suitable the knife won't perform well, same as for any sharpening method.

The benefits of stropping, meaning edge trailing sharpening, irrespective of the grit used, are :

1) are simpler, just need some grit, the backing material can be anything handy

2) can be easier for the inexperienced on convex edges than flat hones

3) can sometimes be useful for removing a burr, though in general there are much better ways of doing so

4) is somewhat traditional on many types of blades.

The only downsides are that in general it is much more prone to burr formation, and it is somewhat slower than edge-into sharpening. It is also a lot less precise than using guides and jigs of course, but then again you could jig stropping if you wanted to. The edge-pro's tapes are essentially that type of setup.

Many of the above comments such as, removing less metal and so on, are particular to the grit used and have nothing inherently to do with stropping. The same would apply to honing on a fine benchstone, or using a Sharpmaker with fine rods. Of course if you only hone until the blade is sharp, you always remove the minimal amount of metal, irregardless of the type of abrasive.

-Cliff
 
Hi. Although I posted this question on another thread I'll ask it here as well. Could you strop a serrated edge? Would it do any good?
 
It depends on the type of serrations - I hate serrations but I have a serrated bread knife which I steel and strop the flat side to remove any burrs. As the flat side is completely flat I lay the steel flat on the non-serrated side and stroke it away from me with a strop I do the reverse and lay the non-serrated side on the strop and pull it towards me. As far as the serrated side is concerned I sharpen it with a diamond rod and then remove the burrs as above. I don't think it would do anygood to strop the serrated side as it could rip up your strop.
 
metallicat said:
Could you strop a serrated edge?
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Yes, just rub some buffing compound on a wooden dowel. However you would be better off with edge-into sharpening using the same dowel wrapped with sandpaper.

-Cliff
 
Thanks for the info regarding stropping a serrated edge. Guess I'll try the dowel/sandpaper. Haven't been that overwhelmed with the sharpmaker. No magic bullet for serrations
 
metallicat said:
Thanks for the info regarding stropping a serrated edge. Guess I'll try the dowel/sandpaper. Haven't been that overwhelmed with the sharpmaker. No magic bullet for serrations
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Wait, are you saying that you're displeased with the sharpmaker sharpening your serrated edges??

It works great on every serrated knife I had in the past... Could it be that your technique is off? (Not trying to infer you can't sharpen, I'm just curious as to why it didn't work well for you.)
-Kevin
 
I hate stropping!! :mad:

I got my leevalley package today and time after time I'd get my beautiful blades scary sharp only to ruin them on the cursed thing. :( I almost tossed it it the woodstove.
 
trains, my friend....please explain to use what's going on. I'm sure we can help you get it right.

Stropping does take a special touch, but it's easy to pick it up. The first few times I did it, I was just like you - ready to toss the thing out the window. But, once you figure it out, it's like printing your own money. :cool:
 
Hi Morgoth412. No offense taken. It may well be my technique. I got the sharpmaker specifically for my serrated blades. ( I use arkansas stones for my PE or I did until recently I got the Edge Pro). I really like my knives sharp and was never satisfied with the sharpmaker edges. I use a tapered cylindrical hone on the individual serrations and this seems to give a better edge. Maybe I didn't stick with the Sharpmaker long enough? Anyway until I got the Edge Pro with the polish tapes I wasn't too interested in polishing the edges. Preferred the unpolished edges for slicing cuts. But after having tried the polishing tapes - wow - I stropped the edges on some old pieces of leather - wow wow. So I was just wondering if stropping would help with the serrations.
 
Really great thread guys.., good conversation! :)

As mentioned by several..., convex type profiles are just so simple to maintain with sound fundamental stropping skills, that no argument needs to be made there at all (IMO). I have a couple of blades of this type I've actually never touched with anything but a strop impregnated with medium grit rouge.

Of course if you "ding" the edge (as in a small chip, etc).., then it's off the to bench stones, but I wouldn't recommend that for someone that hasn't tried it with convex profiles. Get a pro to do it if you love the knife.., and experiment if you don't... :)

I also strop flat ground profiles, but have usually used a tight sew buffing wheel if I want some sort of screamin' mirrored edge on hollow ground blades (which I normally have no use for).

As Mr. Stamp mentions.., the varied abrasiveness of the multitude of stropping compounds results in a myriad of possibilities depending on skill level, edges dynamics, and the intention of the user. There are "World Class" rope cutters that strop their blades pre-competition, so there's not much doubt stropping has value across many domains.

Bottom line. I think stropping is a terrific addition to any sharpening arsenal. The learning curve can be a little frustrating if one approaches it as if it's "Magic".., but that's true of many jig set-ups, costly benchstones, etc.

It's just about taking the time to learn....

Fun thread.., thanks everyone! :)
 
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