Why the ATC-VTAC excells

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Feb 7, 2013
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I made a few responses to Freewheelings thread about the VTAC, so I thought I would make a thread explaining alittle about its design and why it works so well.

Im new to the site, but I covered a little of my background on how Ive come to these conclusions in the previous thread mentioned. I want to preface this before I start to say I dont consider myself an expert in tomahawks and have not had first hand experience with all the makes on the market, but I own and have used many of them extensively.

The design of the VTAC has been proven time and time again with over 40 years of service. This alone speaks plenty of its abilitys. I wont go into the whole mlitary issued serial number because I can see both sides of the story on how it dosent really "prove" anything, however it is a credential none the less. At any rate, as I mentioned before, Peter Lagana spent many years of careful study of design and function before deciding on this blueprint for a tomahawk. It was revamped several years back to be ever so slightly smaller and a vast improvement in the handle. Again, I dont claim the VTAC does everything better than any other tomahawk on the market but as for being a 'one peice of equipment does it all' design, I believe its about as good as it gets.

The drop forged 1060 is an excellent compromise for impact durability vs. edge retention. The grind on the 5 edges is is set at a degree which makes any form of chipping, rolling or denting virtually impossible, all the while keeping a "sharper than it needs to be edge". This is a Godsend when it comes to ripping through metal, glass and concrete, which it does beautifully. I have chopped and sliced through 1/4 inch steel on countless occasions with absolutely no damage to the edges what so ever. Ive penetrated and chopped through concrete with rebar internally with no damage. Smashed and sliced through heavy gauge locks and steel compressed cylinders with no damage at all. Believe it or not Ive also hit a 10 pound solid steel olympic weight plate with the spike end at probably 75 percent full force just to see what happens, and guess what?.........no damage AT ALL. This head will hold up to as far as im concerned, ANYTHING.

Most of your tomahawks use a sweep style blade as opposed to the straight Vietnam style. I believe this is the number one down fall for a multi purpose tomahawk. On the VTAC, place the blade on a flat surface and you will see how the top of the main blade is actually ahead of the bottom of the blade by the way the handle does not form a straight line with the blade. Its that one single feature alone that allows this design to penetrate soft tissue, clothing, or metals much more effectlivey than a curved blade. Take your tomahawk and slowly mimic a swing. Notice where the blade would make contact with the target. Its that tip that starts the cut which allows the rest of the blade to follow the opening with the least amount of resistance. A curved blade will need to cut and then push its body through the target where a straight blade will inherently penetrate much deeper with less effort than a similar sized tomahawk with a curved blade. A straight blade will also tend to "hold onto" its intended target where a curved edge will have an inclination to slide off a less than perfect strike. This is huge when it comes to dealing with hard targets.

I believe a close second in terms of effectiveness in blade style, is the design of the VTACS beard. The majority of bearded hawks on the market use a reverse sweep such as a K5 or Benchmade. I certainly see why they use this style when it comes to the provebial "can opener" effect, but having opened plently of cans myself, I can tell you the VTAC's beard design works just as well, maybe even better. If you look at the VTAC's beard you can see how it slighty curves upward towards the main edge. This is paramount. When used for hooking an opponent, the last thing in the world I need is for my weapon to get stuck in the enemy where I have to focus on ripping it out or letting go because its caught up on bone or tough tendon. If he's not dead, he now has my weapon and is probably a little more upset than he was a few moments ago. Same goes for trying to pry or rip through metals. Go you tube some of the big name tomahawks out there where the video them cutting up cars or steel drums. Anyone ever comment on how they always get their hawks hung up in the material? That costs valuable moments, and in a life or death situation, those moments are everything! The up curved beard on the VTAC lends itself perfectly to slice and slide out from the material its lodged in. This is especially true when it comes to soft body tissue like when I mentioned getting hung up on bone or tendon. With the beard being up swept in nature along with 4+ inches of steel in front of the handle, this gives you all the room in the world to grab ahold of an opponent, take control of the desired limb or neck, and slice out at your discretion. Again, if your hook is not an instant kill, trying to pry that hawk out of your opponent while he is moving all over the place will be something you will wish you thought of before you chose that style hawk.

The spike end of the VTAC uses the same logic when it comes to its straight design and beard.

Because of the straight lines or geometery of the VTAC, it is a joy to throw. I know throwing your weapon is generally a no no, its kinda like splitting 10's in blackjack, but there is a time and place for it. If throwing for fun, not too many hawks out there do as well as the VTAC due to the straight lines and light handle. Because the spike is not curved, it sticks and removes from the target very well.

Finally the handle. Many people think a two peice design is inferior.........not true. As Im sure youve all read before, its virtually indestructable. I can tell you straight up, Ive lodged the VTAC's head between two immovable surfaces and literally put all my strength and weight onto the handle to try an break it. No deals. Ive taken the top bolt out of the handle and tried to rip the head off..........no deals. The handle is machine pressed into the head, so even if the internal bolt were to break, which is extremely unlikey, the head will remain on the shaft.

As you can tell, I enjoy my VTAC's. Actually getting another one custom ground from Fehrman here soon.
 
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I'm a big fan of the straight edge of the VTAC design too - the top corner triangle of the heads drives into soft targets and creates a opening, whereas curved edges want to slip out.

The original Lagana with the wooden handles from ATC were very lively. Much more than the synthetic VTac which also has a smaller head by 10%.

Either way, love the pattern!!
 
Thanks...I found this very helpful in deciding what tomahawk to purchase.

Your welcome. I'm certain you will be more than happy with it. Make sure not to hold anything back when you get around to testing it out............it can take it!
 
I was actually about to start a thread on opinions on the VTAC, I'm so glad I found this one though!

I am looking for my first tomahawk. I really have no use for a tomahawk other than to have some fun with it like throwing it at wood targets and maybe chopping some firewood once in a while. I realize that tomahawks aren't specifically designed for chopping wood/bushcraft but let's be realistic here. Regular axes/hatchets are boring and lame. A tomahawk is just much cooler to use.

Anyways I have been thinking of the SOG Tactical Tomahawk or the ATC Lagana VTAC. I can get the SOG for 28 shipped on Amazon and the VTAC for $96.00 shipped on another website. They are both 2 piece constructed with nylon handles. However it seems that the SOG has a reputation for the handles breaking frequently from regular use, and I don't think I have ever heard of someone breaking their VTAC.

What do you guys think? Is the VTAC worth all that extra money? I am a bit reluctant to buy it just because it's a 2 piece constructed tomahawk and I'd probably prefer a full tang hawk. Will the head loosen up from throwing and chopping? How is ATC's customer service? Also, has anyone managed to ever break their VTAC? Is it true that many of our soldiers currently deployed throughout the Middle East use this specific hawk? If it's good for them then I would imagine it would be more than good for me right?
 
You asked about the SOG tomahawks.............for an entry level hawk, they are actually pretty good. I have both the fast hawk and the full size fusion. I've tested them along with what I've put the VTAC through. There is no comparison. I have had to send them back to SOG to be replaced. They have great customer service and will gladly replace your tomahawk if you manage to break it. Like I said though, they are not in the same class as the VTAC by a long shot. Pay the extra 60 or 70 bucks and get the real deal that will hold up to anything!
 
I've had both. SOG Hawk is heavier and longer and it is fine unless you do a lot of throwing / destructive work.
VTAC is tougher and worth it if you have the cash.

I do find the VTAC a little short but some users prefer that. I like a 16-18 inch handle.
 
I've got a VTAC and I'm actually considering buying ANOTHER one to do some mods to and make it more of a "woods" hawk (remove the powder coating from the blade, reprofile the blade geometry, maybe remove the spike, some leather wrapping, etc..) instead of a tactical one. It's a great tomahawk. Could I buy a cheap Cold Steel Vietnam tomahawk to do this to? Sure, but it wouldn't be the same quality that the [real] American Tomahawk Co. one is.
 
Can you do it to a cold steel version? Sure. In fact, your better off modding a cold steel Vietnam tomahawk as opposed to the ATC because the entire design of the VTAC is integrated to accommodate each of its own functions. Cold Steels Vietnam model is not. Sound complicated?.............After breaching, throwing, breaking and raking, chopping, digging, slicing, hooking and even thrusting through steel, glass, concrete, terra firma and wood, I can say first hand.............VTAC does what its made for. The cold steel's version is just that..............a version.
 
I also have a VTAC, but the slick handle becomes a problem when my hands
are sweaty. Can anyone recommend the best type of tape to wrap the
handle?
 
I personally use squash racket tape... thin, and not too tacky but absorbs sweat. You can get more cushy padded tennis tape too if you like. Plus lanyard.
Some guys like the friction tape used by skateboarders but I've never tried it.
 
I also have a VTAC, but the slick handle becomes a problem when my hands
are sweaty.

I agree, I love the VTAC but the slippery handle is a major flaw in it. I would love to see Andy Prisco from ATC come out with a new version of the VTAC that is longer and that has better grip.
 
Use a heat stipple. Good compromise between a smooth release for throwing while giving the handle a little more grip
 
I agree, I love the VTAC but the slippery handle is a major flaw in it. I would love to see Andy Prisco from ATC come out with a new version of the VTAC that is longer and that has better grip.
I've asked Fehrman to make longer handles for the VTAC and Emerson but they said it isn't in the works. I personally have 0 use for these short handle hawks so it is disappointing.
 
Thanks, Snakebreaker, for your thoughtful post. Your comments on the VTAC's design are quite thorough, and indicate that you've considered many varied aspects of both design and construction.

I am, however, having a really hard time with some of your comments regarding the performance of the 1060 blade.

The drop forged 1060 is an excellent compromise for impact durability vs. edge retention. The grind on the 5 edges is is set at a degree which makes any form of chipping, rolling or denting virtually impossible, all the while keeping a "sharper than it needs to be edge". This is a Godsend when it comes to ripping through metal, glass and concrete, which it does beautifully. I have chopped and sliced through 1/4 inch steel on countless occasions with absolutely no damage to the edges what so ever. Ive penetrated and chopped through concrete with rebar internally with no damage. Smashed and sliced through heavy gauge locks and steel compressed cylinders with no damage at all. Believe it or not Ive also hit a 10 pound solid steel olympic weight plate with the spike end at probably 75 percent full force just to see what happens, and guess what?.........no damage AT ALL. This head will hold up to as far as im concerned, ANYTHING.

I've never seen or heard of any blade - regardless of alloy, heat treatment, or blade geometry - hold up to repeated chopping of steel and concrete without sustaining at least some minor damage to the edge. And this is 1060 we're talking about here.

I own and sometimes use an ATC Rogers Rangers spike hawk, which I'm pretty sure has a cutting edge of 5160 steel. 5160 has a similar carbon content as 1060 but has a bit of chromium and silicon added, which actually gives it improved toughness over 1060. Well after I read your post on the VTAC I just had to take out the Rogers Rangers hawk and take a few whacks at a cinder block out behind my shop, and after just a few light chops the entire edge was riddled with large dents, chips and rolls. Even my own handmade S7 axe, which is a far tougher and more impact resistant steel than 1060, suffered some minor edge wear when I hacked through a cinder block with it.

Indeed, based on my own years of experience as both a user and a maker of knives and axes, I'm finding it very difficult to believe that this VTAC performs as well as you claim.

I myself am continually trying to improve the performance of my own knives and axes wherever I can, and I take my performance testing VERY seriously. I've used a lot of different steels, I've experimented with different heat treatments and edge geometries, and I've been able to achieve some superb results. But I have to say, if there truly is a type of steel that can be heat treated and ground in such a way as to make "any form of chipping, rolling or denting virtually impossible," I have yet to see it.
 
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I can appreciate your concern on my claims of the edge retention Wulf. As you know the grind is set at a very obtuse angle, which allows it to sustain heavy impacts while minimizing damage. I suppose I could have been a little more exact in my verbiage as opposed to leaving second guesses by using the words "any form of.....". At a second look, I can see how that may be deceiving. The VTAC's in question that I've used retained very small indentations that could be felt by running a finger along the edge. However, this did nothing to slow the cutting abilities this tomahawk was designed for. Would it have cut paper, or even cleanly sliced fresh limbs? No........but it wouldn't have been able to do that before going through the steel or concrete either. Will the VTAC be able to go through the same steel and concrete as easily as it did on the first cut as it will after numerous following cuts, since the edge has now received the initial marring and light indentations?.............I know for a fact it will. At any rate wulf........point still taken. No steel or heat treat as of this writing will satisfy the seeker of the legendary "super steel". I still say the VTAC comes pretty close! ;-)
 
Thanks for the clarification, Snakebreaker. Again, great review, and there's no doubt in my mind that the VTAC is an extremely well designed, well built tool.
 
"The edge bevel is ground to resist deformation under extreme use. It will retain its edge, even after insane levels of abuse. It is extremely sharp for its included angle. However, it will not shave hair from your arm."

Just thought I would add this statement that was written under the VTAC's description directly from The American Tomahawk Company.
 
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