why the hatred for S.S. blades

I've been thinking about this thread and reading the replies and trying to find the best way to put my thoughts down here. I want to address Ed's first post because I think it has driven a lot of the discussion since. I'm not going to come on here and tell anyone that I've made more knives than X or that I'm better than Y, it's most likely that I haven't and I'm not. I do, however, want to offer a counter position. Take it as you will, I recommend taking it with a grain of salt like all other internet posts.

As to the toughness of carbon steels over stainless, I do agree that they are going to be tougher, but they will be tougher with a fully hardened blade as well. That being said, stainless steels can be heat treated such that they will bend and take a set, as well as take a fine edge. Most of the stainless knives I had in years past would bend rather than break. That being said, I don't believe that I knife should be purpose built to do so, I do honestly believe that you're using the wrong tool if you need to put enough force on a knife to put a set in it and I would not warranty such use nor expect it in a "life or death" situation.

On the subject of edge geometry, let me give some anecdotal experience: I've seen many a stainless knife filet paper and massacre arm hairs by the hundreds. Although I do not protest that a carbon steel may be able to take a finer edge, I simply ask does it need to be finer than what can be achieved with stainless steels? I sharpen my kitchen knives on a sharp maker, I don't even bother using the ceramic stick, I just put them on the steel and cut away - the flesh doesn't seem to know the difference. What level of precision cutting do we need that we can't reach with these steels?

I can't speak for Karl on the sharpening aspect, but I will say that I offer to sharpen all of my knives (even the carbon steel ones ) for life. It's my opinion that some clients just can't get the same kind of edge that we can and they would rather have the maker do it. I do agree that many stainless knives are more difficult to sharpen if a client does not maintain the knife, but I tell them up front that my knives are likely to be more difficult to sharpen than the factory knives they are used to, even the carbon steel ones. If a person properly maintains their edge, I don't feel that they will be terribly inconvenienced, no matter what steel they use.

As far as the geometry of the grind is concerned, there is no reason that a maker can't grind their stainless knives thinner, I have ground many quick and thin stainless knives without a hitch. I do not believe in "purpose" grinding knives that aren't commissioned or designed for a specific task because you just don't know what the end user will do with it. I hollow grind some knives and flat grind others, if you decided to ask me why, I'd probably tell you because that's what the knife asked me to do. At the end of last year I sent out a 3/16" 1084 hunter that was ground on an 8" wheel - the knife has been used by the fellow who I made for as well as several of his buddies. To the best of my knowledge, it's been used on over a dozen animals thus far and has had nothing but rave reviews from all who have used it. Would it be more popular if I'd flat ground it? Or maybe if I'd used a 14" wheel? Perhaps a 4"? I don't know, I don't even know for sure what he's going to do with the knife, I only know that it's a "hunting knife". Once the knife leaves my shop, I have no control over what it cuts or how it is used to cut. I also have no control over edge geometry. I could send the knife with a hollow ground edge and the customer could stone it to a convex. I could send it with a convex edge and find out he's sharpening on one of those wet sharpening stone machines or that he's putting a flatter edge on it with a sharp maker. Instead of worrying about that, I simply make the knife the way it tells me it would like to be made and if it doesn't work out then I make a different one.

For what it's worth, he asked me how he should sharpen it and I told him sharpen it however you sharpen your other knives, that's what you know works best. I also told him that he can send it back to me any time for sharpening if he was so inclined.

We can all go on and on about what we know and like, but at the end of the day it's a choice that's made by the maker, the customer and the knife. That's how I see it anyway.
 
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Well put AcridSaint. Sometimes, we, as makers tend to over complicate things that really don't have to be.
 
I guess I'll call you AcridSaint
Very well said and I also had some thoughts on some of what was said . Glad this thread got you thinking , it has me also .

I do love what you said though about the knife talking to you and how it wants to be ground . I will draw them and profile them and when they come back from the H.T. things change .

Also the wife laughs at me when I will place a knife on the table and lay out all the different woods I have and try and see what wood would look best on that design .

That is part of the challenge of it all for some of us .
Thanks for your thoughts and time to post them .
 
I don't know if this is just laziness on the part of manufacturers, bad heat treat or just the nature of the big carbides in some stainless steels, but I have seen a lot of factory stainless knives that when they put an edge on them, the microbevel looks like a mini washboard. They are beyond "toothy." More like they were sharpened with an 80 grit belt.
 
As for the saw-tooth edge, I've seen the same thing from certain manufacturers. It's a shame that they make a well built knife but skimp on what actually makes it a knife. That type of edge is solely the result of poor process/methods. Why cut costs on the most critical part of a knife? At least grind it smooth. You don't have to polish it up from the factory, but dayum!

--nathan
 
A change of topic . Micro tooth edge VS. polished edge . I once asked a customer if he would like a micro tooth edge and his answer , " If I want a saw , I'll carry a saw "
So be the topic of edge resistance and pressure needed to cut or slice .
This is good , it is all related . It all seems to return to the desired purpose and use of the knife , how well it will function and what is expected of it .
 
Hi Jack - my name is Cap and you're welcome to call me by it if you like. I don't put it on here mostly because I don't have a paid membership.
 
Micro-tooth versus polished edges.....my input:

I use both methods for applying the final edge, depending on the particular knife, and its intended use. To explain, if I have a client who is more or less a collector, and knowing that he/she is going to "show off" their new knife to all their friends, I will put a polished, hair popping edge on the knife. I do this with a worn out 400 grit belt at very slow speed, then hit the edge with pink no-scratch on the buffer to knocked off the wire edge....thats all it takes.

When a knife is headed for field use, I change tactics and apply the final edge with a Norton fine india stone (no stropping or buffing afterward). This produces that "micro-tooth" edge, which actually holds up better and is longer lasting under field conditions that a polished edge. In either case I seek to create the smallest edge bevels possible. My goal when finish grinding a knife is for the edge to be sharp when it comes off the final belt grit.....both that, and the minimal edge bevel go back to what I spoke about on another thread concerning cutting resistance. Are you starting to see a pattern? Creating a knife is not simply a series of seperate steps/parts, its a matter of each element/step, complimenting the next, all the way through the process, to create what I call "The Overall Package".
 
just saw analysis of becut... bohler678 has almost 2% vanadium and .8% carbon among the other stuff
 
BTW, I think JDM and I are talking about something a little more than a micro-tooth edge. I received a small pocket knife from a reputable manufacturer the other day as a gift, and you could visibly see the washboard effect that JDM was referring to on the sharpened bevel. It was almost as if the sharpened bevel contained miniature serrations. Almost as if it was ground by a very finely grooved sharpening stone. I've never seen that type of edge before, and the cutting performance was less than spectacular. I guess if I was cutting heavy rope (with a small little pocket knife??), it would be beneficial. Other than that, the way this blade was sharpened hinders the performance in almost all other cutting.

I'm a big fan of both true micro-toothy edges as well as polished edges depending on the application.

--nathan
 
Ok, diferent elements makes the steel:

Chromium - increases stain resistant, but makes the knives brittle.
Molybdenum - increases wear resistant
Vanadium - increases mechanical quality of alloys. Prevents enlagement of the grain structure............

But what element contents gives what kind of edge? Grain structure also makes big diferent. I am realy a newbie with an empty head, and I have a lot of questions.
Steel with "grainy" structure like I heard of D2 (1.2379) does it gives a brittle or bad blade? No, D2 is one of most trusted steels. :confused: When "grainy" means good thing, because large grains gives shity blades as far as I know.

P.S. Sorry if my spelling is bad, people.
 
well, since Cliff Stamp is apparently banned, I'll speak up about the carbide volume and grain size....

Stainless usually has big grains. That causes problems in thin edges. If you must have a thin edge, with acute edge angles, use a fine grained steel. That excludes most stainless. If you can tolerate a thicker edge and obtuse sharpening angles stainless can be very serviceable. I've been getting some worn out stainless blades from an industrial meat processing machine... they wouldn't use stainless if it didn't work... then again it is a pretty fancy alloy...

First off, Cliff didn't post on this forum much. He did better staying away from people who knew what was going on, and pontificated to the masses in other forums.

Stainless doesn't have to be coarse grained, it depends on the chemistry and the heat treatment. Even notably coarse (carbide) grained steel like D2 can be polished to a fine edge. It will get coarser as it starts to dull, losing grains from the edge. SS types with V, W and Mo like 154CM and the various powder metal versions may not be coarse grained at all.

It is just a matter of personal preference. If a maker wants to use stainless and does his homework, the product will be every bit as good as any other.
 
Ok, diferent elements makes the steel:

Chromium - increases stain resistant, but makes the knives brittle.
Molybdenum - increases wear resistant
Vanadium - increases mechanical quality of alloys. Prevents enlagement of the grain structure............

But what element contents gives what kind of edge? Grain structure also makes big diferent. I am realy a newbie with an empty head, and I have a lot of questions.
Steel with "grainy" structure like I heard of D2 (1.2379) does it gives a brittle or bad blade? No, D2 is one of most trusted steels. :confused: When "grainy" means good thing, because large grains gives shity blades as far as I know.

P.S. Sorry if my spelling is bad, people.

I think it's the Carborundum that gives the "microserration" saw toothed factory edge, they give it a quick hit on a belt, then a quick pass on the polisher and put it in a blister pak

-Page
 
First off, Cliff didn't post on this forum much. He did better staying away from people who knew what was going on, and pontificated to the masses in other forums.

Stainless doesn't have to be coarse grained, it depends on the chemistry and the heat treatment. Even notably coarse (carbide) grained steel like D2 can be polished to a fine edge. It will get coarser as it starts to dull, losing grains from the edge. SS types with V, W and Mo like 154CM and the various powder metal versions may not be coarse grained at all.

It is just a matter of personal preference. If a maker wants to use stainless and does his homework, the product will be every bit as good as any other.

points taken, but like you said, it depends on the chemistry... that's why so many stainless alloys have coarse grain structure, or coarser than they would if they had lower carbide volume

I use d2 a lot, made at least 50 knives out of it at RC62, and have a hard time getting a really fine edge with it (less than 15 degrees TOTAL) with a thin edge. Same (but to a lesser degree) with 440c and ats34, tho @RC58 the 440c is easier to get sharp. Low alloy blades i have taken to 7 degrees total (omg bled a lot when i started doing this) no problem.

M2, hard to get the fine edge to last also, but A8mod is easy, and i speculate it's the grain size. Coarse grains work fine at normal sharpening angles and edge thicknesses, but when yer looking at some extremes you might want finer grain structure.

If you can correct my thinking in layterms i'm open and grateful
 
I don't use a lot of stainless, however, I will share a quick story.....

My neighbor, who will spend thousands on hunting rifles and scopes (read...... $3,200.00 for a deer rifle and scope), not to mention several thousand each year for "hunting club" memberships, but refuses to spend over $60-70 on a hunting knife.

Only stainless will suit his needs. He quizzed me on the best stainless available, and I told him that S-30V or 154CM were good steels if properly heat treated.

He found a deal on an S-30V from Ca**las ($60.00 on sale). He called me raising hell because I had told him that S-30V was a good stainless. He said that after cleaning two deer, the edge looked like a "saw-blade". It was so chipped that he couldn't use it again.

I invited him over for a demonstration. I took one of my shop knives made from S-30V and chopped through an antler, then cut slivers from the antler. I then shaved hair from my arm. He had a somewhat "WTF" look on his face.

I simply told him that you get what you pay for. My CPM S-30V was heat treated by Paul Bos.

Again......... You get what you pay for.

Robert

This describes some of my family members to a T. My dad buys nice varmint rifles, and deer rifles, and elk rifles. As he gets older he is spending more and more on trigger jobs, and better equipment. But he craps a brick when I mention spending money on a quality knife. Thousands on a rifle and $30 max on his knife (except one custom from my uncle who is now deceased).
A lot of my friends are like this too. They will spend 5k plus on their car stereo, or on wheels and rims, but just shake their head in disbelief at spending a couple of hundred on a quality knife.
 
points taken, but like you said, it depends on the chemistry... that's why so many stainless alloys have coarse grain structure, or coarser than they would if they had lower carbide volume

I use d2 a lot, made at least 50 knives out of it at RC62, and have a hard time getting a really fine edge with it (less than 15 degrees TOTAL) with a thin edge. Same (but to a lesser degree) with 440c and ats34, tho @RC58 the 440c is easier to get sharp. Low alloy blades i have taken to 7 degrees total (omg bled a lot when i started doing this) no problem.

M2, hard to get the fine edge to last also, but A8mod is easy, and i speculate it's the grain size. Coarse grains work fine at normal sharpening angles and edge thicknesses, but when yer looking at some extremes you might want finer grain structure.

If you can correct my thinking in layterms i'm open and grateful

We're talking about large grains under a microscope, when you grind your ats down to a 7 degree bevel, are you seeing the large grains? I speculate that the difficulty you have with M2 is just that it's got incredible wear resistance.
 
BTW, I think JDM and I are talking about something a little more than a micro-tooth edge. I received a small pocket knife from a reputable manufacturer the other day as a gift, and you could visibly see the washboard effect that JDM was referring to on the sharpened bevel. It was almost as if the sharpened bevel contained miniature serrations. Almost as if it was ground by a very finely grooved sharpening stone. I've never seen that type of edge before, and the cutting performance was less than spectacular. I guess if I was cutting heavy rope (with a small little pocket knife??), it would be beneficial. Other than that, the way this blade was sharpened hinders the performance in almost all other cutting.

I'm a big fan of both true micro-toothy edges as well as polished edges depending on the application.

--nathan
Yep, that is what I was talking about. I have never been sure whether it was the sharpening method or the grain/carbide size of the steel itself. I don't recall seeing it even on reasonably priced carbon steel factory knives like classic KaBars, etc.
 
I have never been sure whether it was the sharpening method or the grain/carbide size of the steel itself.

Manufacturing/sharpening methods, I'm 99% sure. I have a Frost's SS Mora that looked like that from the factory. After proper sharpening, the edge looks fine and cuts quite well.

To hazard a guess, if you can actually see the grain/carbide size of a polished edge with the naked eye, something's very wrong. I could be wrong, of course.
 
I have no hatred for Stainless steel blades. In fact, I really like CPM154. The reason that most of my knives are carbon steel is because I have a love of forged knives, and not many smiths forge stainless. My collection is starting to include more stock removal knives and also more stainless steel.
 
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