Kohai999
Second Degree Cutter
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2003
- Messages
- 12,554
I started the Burt Foster thread to show Burt's knives, and how cool they are. Burt was a unique find, because nobody had mentioned his name, nor had his website been checked out before I went to Reno. Starting fresh, as you were. His knives are mindblowing.
Tinkering with custom knives started for me when, being the anal retentive mofo that is, I noticed some rough edges on the handle of a custom knife that I had purchased. This was when I had a retail knife shop in Seattle in 1994, and access to equipment, and some people like Butch and Shawn Vallotton, and Rod Chappel to show me some basics. Smoothing out the edges went easy. My business partner and I then went to work fixing production knives that customers would bring in for repair. Things like a broken tip, or scales. Then we started springing Boker Top Locks for a distributor, and figuring out how to drill through hardened steel, and make our own springs. It is not that we HAD to figure it out all ourselves, we just did not know who or how to ask, we thought it was slightly embarrassing, not knowing how to make a small hole in hardened steel, it seems so simple(Answer, for us, with a 1/16" carbide twist bit, slow speed, lots of cutting fluid).
It really came to a head about 6 years ago, when a well carried custom knife was being retired. I arranged with the maker to refurbish the knife, and sent it to him. He had it for close to 6 months, and sent it back with a note saying that he couldn't do anything with it (I had asked for a new set of scales, really thin, from G-10, and a "refreshing" of the hollow grinds), to his credit, he did offer me a reduction in price for the next knife that I purchased, but still, it did not make up for the loss of time.
If it bothers me, I go into my garage, turn on my grinder or do it by hand, and it is fixed. I know my limitations. If it is to be a complete regrinding of the blade, I can, but am not confident in the results, so if it does not go back to THE maker; it goes back to A maker.
For instance; I have a Tommy Lee Persian Fighter in satin ATS-34 that got a pit in it for a stupid reason. I could not get it out with hand sanding, and Tommy retired years ago, so I was sort of stuck. Bob Crowder reground the pit out, and did it so well, the knife looks untouched. He saved my bacon.
Now, if the handle proportions are out of whack to me, which happens occasionally, I Garssonize it. That is reshape it to suit my needs. MOST collectors would be hard pressed to know that anything was done to it, but occasionally, and I mean, VERY occasionally, a maker will notice a difference. This is not something that I make a big deal of BTW, but I am not keeping any secrets about it either. The knives in my permanent collection will stay there for at least the next 30 years or so, until I get dementia or die. Some will be worth more than they are now, some will be worth less.
When I was talking to Burt yesterday, he VERY favorably made a comparison between Porsche automobiles, and Ruf, a customization house, and the work that I do. The point was that it made the knife different, not necessarily better, but that might be a desirable thing to me, or someone else. I'm not stamping the knives that I work on, or even the ones in my collection with my individual mark, although it has been said in some collecting circles that this can add value to the object. I provide a sheet of paper with all specifics of the knife, and all corroborating documents with a sold or traded knife.
A nihonto(japanese sword) collector can buy a good sword in bad polish(which they frequently are) and do a number of things. They can leave it alone, but will never know its' true beauty, they can send it to a bad polisher and destroy it, or they can send it to a good (and frighteningly expensive) polisher and bring out the "soul" of the blade.
Like I said in my other post, I look for reasons NOT to mess with a knife, but if they are there, so be it.
Best Regards,
STeven Garsson
Tinkering with custom knives started for me when, being the anal retentive mofo that is, I noticed some rough edges on the handle of a custom knife that I had purchased. This was when I had a retail knife shop in Seattle in 1994, and access to equipment, and some people like Butch and Shawn Vallotton, and Rod Chappel to show me some basics. Smoothing out the edges went easy. My business partner and I then went to work fixing production knives that customers would bring in for repair. Things like a broken tip, or scales. Then we started springing Boker Top Locks for a distributor, and figuring out how to drill through hardened steel, and make our own springs. It is not that we HAD to figure it out all ourselves, we just did not know who or how to ask, we thought it was slightly embarrassing, not knowing how to make a small hole in hardened steel, it seems so simple(Answer, for us, with a 1/16" carbide twist bit, slow speed, lots of cutting fluid).
It really came to a head about 6 years ago, when a well carried custom knife was being retired. I arranged with the maker to refurbish the knife, and sent it to him. He had it for close to 6 months, and sent it back with a note saying that he couldn't do anything with it (I had asked for a new set of scales, really thin, from G-10, and a "refreshing" of the hollow grinds), to his credit, he did offer me a reduction in price for the next knife that I purchased, but still, it did not make up for the loss of time.
If it bothers me, I go into my garage, turn on my grinder or do it by hand, and it is fixed. I know my limitations. If it is to be a complete regrinding of the blade, I can, but am not confident in the results, so if it does not go back to THE maker; it goes back to A maker.
For instance; I have a Tommy Lee Persian Fighter in satin ATS-34 that got a pit in it for a stupid reason. I could not get it out with hand sanding, and Tommy retired years ago, so I was sort of stuck. Bob Crowder reground the pit out, and did it so well, the knife looks untouched. He saved my bacon.
Now, if the handle proportions are out of whack to me, which happens occasionally, I Garssonize it. That is reshape it to suit my needs. MOST collectors would be hard pressed to know that anything was done to it, but occasionally, and I mean, VERY occasionally, a maker will notice a difference. This is not something that I make a big deal of BTW, but I am not keeping any secrets about it either. The knives in my permanent collection will stay there for at least the next 30 years or so, until I get dementia or die. Some will be worth more than they are now, some will be worth less.
When I was talking to Burt yesterday, he VERY favorably made a comparison between Porsche automobiles, and Ruf, a customization house, and the work that I do. The point was that it made the knife different, not necessarily better, but that might be a desirable thing to me, or someone else. I'm not stamping the knives that I work on, or even the ones in my collection with my individual mark, although it has been said in some collecting circles that this can add value to the object. I provide a sheet of paper with all specifics of the knife, and all corroborating documents with a sold or traded knife.
A nihonto(japanese sword) collector can buy a good sword in bad polish(which they frequently are) and do a number of things. They can leave it alone, but will never know its' true beauty, they can send it to a bad polisher and destroy it, or they can send it to a good (and frighteningly expensive) polisher and bring out the "soul" of the blade.
Like I said in my other post, I look for reasons NOT to mess with a knife, but if they are there, so be it.
Best Regards,
STeven Garsson