Wicked Edge problems

C

Crimsonhooch

Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
11
So I just got my WE after only months and months of waiting. My first knife I have tried is my Cold Steel SR-K. I took it in the woods so it was pretty dull. I purchased the 100-1000 grits stones. I set up the WE properly and got to work. This is my first time ever sharpening a knife. I started with the 100 grits at 22 degrees. I did about 30+ strokes on each side. I did the cotton ball test that the instructions say but no good. It did not snag. So I used the stone a little more.

I slowly moved the stones for about 30-40 strokes with each grit until I reached 1000 grit. After this I tested the knife. The edge looks much prettier but really isnt that sharp. It wont cut paper or hair. I still tears paper.

I don't know what I did wrong or did not do. All I have read is raving reviews about the WE so I don't doubt that it can do its job well. Please let me know what I can do to get the wicked sharp edge that I paid $300 to get this sharpener for. How do I get my knife sharp with the WE?
 
I suggest "painting" the edge with a black marker and then try again and see if you are removing the marker to the edge. You have to create a burr as Clay states in his videos. I have been using the WE for almost 2 yrs with great success. Also to really get the super polished edge and hair shaving sharpness I suggest the 5/3.5 leather strops.
 
Try the 100 grits stone until you feel the burr then you move to the next stone, if no burr yet, keep on going with the same stone.
 
I watched his videos and he only does 5-6 swipes with each stone. Is it odd that I need to do so many passes to get a burr?
 
If your sharpening at 22 degrees, but the factory edge is 25 or 27 degrees, than you will certainly have to make more then a few strokes. I agree with Never Dull, paint your edge to see exactly where the stones are hitting.
 
120 grit sandpaper over a hard leather backing and lay the blade almost flat. You can do back and forth, circular, or edge trailing strokes. Do each side until you raise a burr. It takes the shoulders off and thins out your edge. Then take it to the WE at the desired angle. Usually works for me when I need to reprofile a new blade w/ an obtuse angle.
 
monk3yfist said:
120 grit sandpaper over a hard leather backing and lay the blade almost flat. You can do back and forth, circular, or edge trailing strokes. Do each side until you raise a burr. It takes the shoulders off and thins out your edge. Then take it to the WE at the desired angle. Usually works for me when I need to reprofile a new blade w/ an obtuse angle.
Click to expand...

Just a caveat though, doing this might scratch the blade above the bevel.
 
That's true about the scratches. Most of my blades are users so I generally dont stress over it. You can go through the process very carefully to avoid scratches or use a belt sander for more consistent results.
 
Sounds like you need more time w/ the 100 grit stone. The first time sharpening a knife with an obtuse edge angle will take some time as you need to grind away a decent amount of steel to get to bevel to the desired angle all the way to the edge. After the bevel is set to the angle you want then sharpening should be quick and painless. You will just have to mark the edge and grind away until the marker is gone all the way to the apex of the edge and a burr is formed down the entire length of the edge.

If you dont have the patience to reset the bevel angle then you can always increase the sharpening angle to match the factory angle but in my experience most knives come from the factory w/ too obtuse an edge angle and benefit from from reprofiling.
 
That Cold Steel SRK has a pretty thick hollow ground blade. Like others have said, keep trying with the lowest grit stone until you raise a burr from heel to tip of the blade. I have an old CS Carbon V Trail Master that I sharpenned on my Edgepro at 23 degrees on both sides and it did take awhile to raise a burr. Now it can shave with the tip of the blade.
 
Yup, takes a while to do the first profiling, even with the hundred-grit plates. You HAVE to raise that first burr, it's the most important part of the job, IMO. For removing material quickly, I usually "scrub" in circles on the side of the blade, about half-inch forward-and-back, coupled with vertical movement as much as I can on the paddle. It removes material quite a lot faster than stroking heel-to-tip, or straight vertical scrubbing. Once I can feel the burr, I use a few more passes with a heel-to-tip stroke to smooth out the scratch pattern before moving on to the 200s.
 
Komitadjie is correct.

Remember, the first sharpening/re-bevelling is the most difficult by far. You are establishing an edge angle, not maintaining one. Acquire a good "burr" on both sides of the blade at 100, before advancing to 200. It's really a bit of pain the first time, but after that, if you haven't destroyed the edge, you can usually skip the 100 and 200 and go straight to the 400 or 600 to resharpen.

Once you've established a proper edge bevel on your knife, and become comfortable with the use of the machine, a whole new world of sharpness will open itself up to you. :thumbup:
 
I had the same problem when I received mine. The video made it look much easier lol. The angle your attempting to sharpen onto your blade is likely a different degree than the blade came with from the factory. You have to grind in the angle degree that you now want the knife to have (reprofile), and make sure you don't forget that new degree for future sharpenings of that blade. You'll get the burr that you're looking for once you completely grind down the factory edge into the new desired angle. This is easiest to do with a low grit stone (use your 100 grit, or easier still, if you pick up the 50/80 grit stones). I have noticed, however, that to get that air-bleeding sharpness, I've had to go beyond the 800/1000 grit stones, and use the ceramics, finished with a diamond-pasted strop. IMO although the manufacturer advises forward and elevating strokes, it's easier to initially reprofile an edge if you grind the steel in a circular up and down motion.. then use the recommended up and away stroke when you get into higher grits (600, 800, 1000+). I hope this information proves helpful bud!
 
I will just jump on the bandwagon of burr creation. I own the Wicked Edge and the Edge pro, as well as some bench stones. Without creating a burr along the whole edge, from both sides it doesn't matter how much you spend, or how perfect you or your system hold the knife, you can't get a good edge without creating a burr to confirm you are reaching the Apex, and then taking off the burr as you progress through the grits.
 
Sorry don't mean to highjack your thread. I just recieved my sharpener with the paperstone base. It came with 2 screws and 2 washers. The washers have rubber on one side and the screws have a tapered head. Not sure what goes where. There were also 2 longer screws in the box? I checked Wicked edge website, Youtube and facebook with no luck. Any help will be appreciated. TIA.
 
It's a bit difficult without pictures, but I will try. Two long screws and washers secure the knife sharpener base to the paperstone base.

If the clamp is not already secured to the knife sharpener base, the other two screws are for that purpose.

If you still have a problem, the telephone number is on the back of the manual. (877-616-9911) Call them during normal business hours and Clay or Bob will be more than happy to help you out.

Good luck with your WEPS. I think you will be well pleased with it.
 
Im not sure what the two washers with the rubber feet are for either. The two long screws are to mount the paper stone base to the wicked edge vise/base. The two shorter screws are
for the two triangle pieces that make up the vise. You can use the hex key that slides into the wicked edge base to tighten all screws.
 
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