Wicked Edge problems

Thanks guys. Its weird because the 2 shorter screws were in a plastic bag with the washers taped to the base. But they dont seem long enough. and the 2 longer screws were in the box with the vise and stones? Plus the screws are tapered under the head and the base does not have the 45 degree tapper drilled out. Plus the washers are not flat they are bowed. Guess I'll wait till after the holidays and give em a call.
Thanks to all for your responses.
 
Thread the rubber washers on the long screws first, the rubber washers kind of act like a lock washer. Then thread the metal washers on the long screws so that they countersink into the bottom hole (you are correct, the holes don't have a countersunk area) on top of the rubber washers. If you put the metal washers on the wrong way, the screws won't be long enough to reach into the bottom of the vise and they are a PIA to get back off and turn them the correct way. Thread one screw at a time through the base and into the vise, snug em down but don't strip the holes in the aluminum vise. The two small screws go through the sides of the vise to clamp on the blade, barely start them until you are ready to insert a blade. Put a small thin piece of cloth / leather / fiber board stiffener between the vise and the blade when tightening or you will mar the blade. The instructions aren't very clear on assembly.

Until I get the edge reprofiled all the way to the tip, I move the stones up and down rather than just away like in the video, its much faster when reprofiling. After I get to the 1000 grit stones, I put a couple pieces of 3000 grit sandpaper over two of the stones and secure them with rubber bands, then use them in the same way as the video shows, up and away. Once that makes a mirror I strop using pink jeweler's buffing rouge. The strop paste that WE sells is too expensive IMO, I bought a half a bar of pink jeweler's rouge for 5 bux at a recent gun show and got enough to last for years. Pink is finer than white. I'm sure the diamond paste is wonderful, but for the price I'll stick with pink rouge. As others have mentioned, get a loupe. I got a lighted one for 8 bux at the same gun show and now I can see exactly what the edge looks like, kind of amazing how rough factory edges are, kind of like mini serrations. These mini serrations feel sharp, but are actually tearing as much as slicing. The shallower the angle (lower number in degrees), the sharper the edge, but the more delicate the edge too. I use 20 degrees for my pocket knives but I like em wicked sharp (pun intended). Practice on a cheap knife, I bought a Case CV Sodbuster Jr to learn on. It's thin hollow grind and carbon steel takes a great edge, noticably sharper than I can achieve with Case SS. Also practiced on some used X-Acto blades and learned what hair whittlin' sharp really means.
 
Crimsonhooch said:
I watched his videos and he only does 5-6 swipes with each stone. Is it odd that I need to do so many passes to get a burr?
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Already answered, but sharpening angle will make a big difference. If the angle match is not there, it can take seemingly forever to get the initial bevel. This is the mistake most people make is moving on before they get both bevels to touch each other.

You end up with a nicely polished butter knife.
 
Never Dull said:
I suggest "painting" the edge with a black marker and then try again and see if you are removing the marker to the edge.
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This is what I do too. For me, it's by far the best way to tell if I've actually gotten all the way to the edge. You will likely be surprised by how long it can take to remove a couple millimeters of marker once you are at the point where you have to thin down a significant amount of edge backing it.

First time thinning out an edge, even on a pocketknife with a thinner blade and more acute grind will take literally hundreds of strokes on each side with the hundred grit before you get the new angle set. Sides usually aren't quite even and grinds may be a touch wavy, even on higher end knives. If I'm starting with a new fixed blade knife and putting a 15-20 degree edge on it, it takes me an hour plus. I don't know how on earth people reprofile with a Sharpmaker - must take days of work. Once the new bevel is established and you are just resharpening, it only takes a few strokes per side since you aren't removing much metal at all.
 
Along with what Burke said, a Sharpie edge (I use 3 tick marks) is what works for me to ensure I am removing the material to the apex. Not too much BUT critical to remove material to the apex. I simply have not always been able to detect the "Burr" (easier on a kitchen knife than on something like a Hinderer or Acies) .
Other than that I will say the most common mistake(s) are:
- Strokes too fast
- Moving to next grit too soon. Burr has not been raised thus apex not reached.
- Wire edge not removed in final stages.
- As edge geometry, steel types, sharpening technique "discussions" opinions as mileage will vary, your results will too.
 
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