Wicked Edge problems

C

Crimsonhooch

Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
11
I have had the same problem with each of my cold steel knives. I think I am screwing up my blades. I have sharpened 3 blades now and the same happens on each. The first side I sharpen is the right side. I will pick my angle, put marker on the blade, and sharpen until the marker is gone and I can feel a bevel on the left side. I then repeat the same step on the left side. Typically the left side can take as little as a few strokes until I feel the bevel along the right and then move up in grit. However, when I originally do the right side it can take hours of sharpening until I am able to get rid of all the marker. Yes, the degrees are set equally for each side. Also, if you will notice the new edge becomes increasingly wider as I get to the point of the blade. You will notice in the pictures the right side (the side without the marker) is wider than the left. Please let me know what is going on so I stop ruining my blades.
photo3.jpg
photo2.jpg
photo1-1.jpg
 
change the position that you blade is in between the clamps,they had a demo at a gun show locally and the guy kept playing with the position seemed to work
 
You should check out the MTE subforum for sharpening stuff. Lots of good info in there.
Leeble611 said:
ive had the same problem with certain steels
Click to expand...

It has nothing to do with the steel. It can happen on Edge Pro sharpeners as well. The problem for some people is that they are in a mad rush to get a mirror edge and they use more force on one side (usually with the dominant hand).
 
Is your bevel the same width on both sides of the blade? If you start off taking everything off just one side until you get to a burr, you're going to end up with an off-centered edge, which will be wider on one side.

One of the advantages of the WE is that it lets you easily take metal off both sides in tandem. It's easy to keep a centered edge that way.

If it's taking a lot longer to remove the marker off one side, the angle on that side is larger than your sharpening angle. So, if you're sharpening at 15 degrees and one side of the edge is 15 degrees and the other is 20 degrees, it's going to take a lot longer to raise a burr on the 20-degree side.

It's normal for the edge to get wider near the tip because the angle geometry changes.
 
Couple tips. I seem to have my wicked edge issues licked after quite a trial and error period.

1) your are supposed to clamp the blade in the exact middle. I have found for blades with a large upsweep that I clamp them slightly forward of the middle.

2). The knife you have pictured has a decent amount of recurve. You will need the rounded wicked edge stones to have great success with recurve blades.

3) in Clay's videos he says he doesn't count strokes. I have not found a way to evenly re-profile an edge without using the marker trick and counting strokes.
 
If you stay on one side till you get a burr you HAVE TO stay on the opposite side until the edge is centered not just get the burr off, hope this makes sense.
 
PeteG said:
If you stay on one side till you get a burr you HAVE TO stay on the opposite side until the edge is centered not just get the burr off, hope this makes sense.
Click to expand...

This was what I was going to say. If you are reprofiling all on one side until you get a burr, then you will end up with an offcenter blade, one side appearing wider than the other.

In increades edge width at the tip is normal on an WE, at least for me.
 
I was thinking this same thing. However, it really doesn't make sense to me. So I drew some pictures. Please bear with the drawings. Figure 1 left side angle is the same as Fig. 2. Now the red line represents the 100 grit stone, the green line represents the center of the blade (I forgot Fig. 1 green line just imagine:D), and the circle represents the space between the stone and the crest where the burr forms. Now, I assume the distance in both yellow circles is equal to one another. So I don't understand how Fig. 2 stone touches the burr sooner and why it does not look the same. Please correct my thinking. :confused:
Knifesharpeningimage.jpg
 
Crimsonhooch said:
I was thinking this same thing. However, it really doesn't make sense to me. So I drew some pictures. Please bear with the drawings. Figure 1 left side angle is the same as Fig. 2. Now the red line represents the 100 grit stone, the green line represents the center of the blade (I forgot Fig. 1 green line just imagine:D), and the circle represents the space between the stone and the crest where the burr forms. Now, I assume the distance in both yellow circles is equal to one another. So I don't understand how Fig. 2 stone touches the burr sooner and why it does not look the same. Please correct my thinking. :confused:
Knifesharpeningimage.jpg
Click to expand...

If I understand correctly, I believe what your problem is is that your blade is tilted to one side or the other in the vise, and therefore the angles are off no matter how much you sharpen. I have had a problem with my vises... I have bent 2 of them now. This causes the edge to be able to rock to one side or the other, causing an uneven grind. I have found that an angle cube fixes this problem.

You can pick up one at most hardware stores for $30.

I have a fabrication shop making me a vise out of a2 tool steel :-)
 
Last edited:
razor-edge-knives said:
If I understand correctly, I believe what your problem is is that your blade is tilted to one side or the other in the vise, and therefore the angles are off no matter how much you sharpen. I have had a problem with my vises... I have bent 2 of them now. This causes the edge to be able to rock to one side or the other, causing an uneven grind. I have found that an angle cube fixes this problem.

You can pick up one at most hardware stores for $30.

I have a fabrication shop making me a vise out of a2 tool steel :-)
Click to expand...

I agree that the blade may be tilted in the vise. The left side of the vise is vertical and stationary while the right side clamps. This can cause a ffg blade to be off vertical. I use an angle cube to ensure the angles line up.
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/424-0128/new_products

Also here is Clay's blog that covers many issues. http://sharpeningtechniques.blogspot.com/
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top