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Wildertools S-Curve Review (PIC HEAVY)

kgd

Joined
Feb 28, 2007
Messages
9,786
I was planning on doing this over the weekend, but it was such a nice day that I ended up taking the afternoon off and visiting my favorite park with a group of knives to review my new S-Curve by Rick Marchand of Wildertools in more detail.

For those of you who haven't caught the sneak peek thread and are unfamiliar with his work, Rick goes by the handle Magnessen here on BF is very active in his participation in W&SS. Rick also makes a habit of showcasing his work in the Maker's Area under the Knife Makers Gallery. So a quick search of his name will bring up many examples of his work. His website is: www.wildertools.com.

Knife model: S-Curve
This is the same knife that Rick submitted to the Camp Knife challenge held by W&SS as organized by Pitdog and testing/reviews conducted by Brian Andrews. For those of you who didn't read this amazing thread, grab a bowl of popcorn and visit this thread first. There is just no way I can begin to approach the depth of review Brian gave all the contest knives: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=687445

Specs:

Blade length: 7"
Blade thickness: 3/16", tapered at handle and towards tip
Blade steel: 1080, full tang
Handle: Walnut (from Heirloom furniture from my wife's family)
Brass pins, peened for mechanical strength + epoxy glued to tang
Wrap - hemp cord covered in epoxy

Sheath: Leather with unique change over carry system.

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Okay, onto the review. First, thing I want to talk about is Rick's sheaths. Its hard to fully explain Rick's sheath. Think of leather armor plating and you will get an idea of what they are like. Rick fully impregnates his sheaths in bees wax resulting in a formfitting, stiff and water repellent sheath. You can knock on the sheath with your fingers and its almost like knocking on wood. Mind you there is still some flex to this sheath, but it is really tough stuff.

All of the sewing is done by hand, but on mine, you would be hard pressed to tell because each stick is perfectly straight and they are nicely spaced. The stitching is also inset into the leather so that abrasion at the surface of the sheath does not wear the threading. Rick always places a metal (in the case copper) rivet off centered of the tip at the cutting edge. This is a safety feature to prevent the blade from cutting through the sheath. If it does cut through the leather, it will get hung up on the rivet.

The knife as I said is form fitted. It slides in effortlessly and in the last inch you press down and it literally clicks into place. You can hold the sheath upside and shake it and it will not lose the knife. Finally, there is no exposed stitching on the inside of the sheath. On other leather sheaths I have commonly cut through the threads holding the belt loop during insertion of the knife resulting in the loop opening up. This can't happen with Rick's sheaths.

Every one of Rick's sheaths have a lot of artistic merit to them. He goes to great lengths to achieve random patterns of staining and texture giving it a natural and aged look. Rick is one of those maker who spends as much time, if not more time on his sheaths as he does on the knives.

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When I ordered this knife I asked if Rick could make my sheath a dangler. He asked me if there was anything else I'd like. I made an offhand comment that I'd like to be able to use it with a baldric rig also. When I said this, I simply figured that a dangler and baldric could use the same system just having the belt clip to the ring holding the dangler. Instead of going an easy or cheap route, Rick actually designed an incredibly novel sheath system concept.

So here is how it works. The sheath has a locking flap that accepts accessory modules. In its simplest form, you just use the locking flap like you would a clip, and stick the knife through your belt with the locking flap over top of the belt.

The modules offer the flexibility of different carry options. They are basically a ring of leather that slides up the sheath and locks into the locking flap. The first one I'll show is the dangler module.

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The dangler does a great job of keeping the knife centered while walking and keeps the sheath out of the way of waist straps from back packs.

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more coming....
 
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Unfortunately I don't have as nice a belt as his sheath and I still haven't gotten good clips, but here is the baldric rick. Note the different carbiners are my lack of pretty clips not what Rick provided. For the baldric module, the rings are spaced at about 45 degree angles and keep the knife hanging nice and even. The baldric carry is perfect for winter, wearing the belt over your coat so you don't have to fish under your coat to find your knife!

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Onto my review of the knife. Well, as mentioned above, I decided to truck myself and my blades to a little piece of wilderness.

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Unexpectedly, I had a few guests drop in to see what a wildertools blade is all about.

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Wildertools sheaths don't taste very good, despite them smelling like honey...

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Okay, a shot of the S-curve in vertical profile. You can see the tapering of that tang both towards the tip and also at the handle. The handle itself is also aggressively tapered such that the top of the wrap is almost flush with the blade. The blade is dropped relative to the handle and is radiussed outward. All the edges along the drop edge are smoothened. This gives a very secure and comfortable grip when choking up on the blade.

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more coming....
 
As I mentioned before, grabbing the blade right at the top of the handle gives you a lot of fine control of the knife. But it also lends itself to faster hand fatique. To avoid the hand fatique it seems better to grip the blade at the wider part of the taper towards the back of the blade.

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Some contrast shots between the S-Curve, Ratcutlery RC-6, Scrapyard SOD and Camillus BK-7.

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A shot in profile, the SOD and S-Curve.

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A few observations. The S-Curve has a longer sharpened edge than both the RC-6 and SOD and is similar to the BK-7. The S-Curve is considerably lighter than all of the other knives. Actually, when I weight up the S-Curve (without sheath) it was 8 oz right on the money. The RC-4 (yes 4, not the 6) weights 7.25 oz. The RC-6 is 11.65, BK-7 is 12.0 and the SOD is 15.05 oz.

I'm still impressed with the numbers behind the RC-4 and S-Curve comparison. Rick's knife is 43% longefr, wider by about 10%, both are 3/16" thick and yet the S-curve only weighs 10% more than the RC-4. These differences are due to the tapers in the tang and lighter handle materials (walnut compared to micarta). Truly, here is one real advantage that forging has to offer!

I decided to move on and found myself being observed by two new on-lookers. Now if only I were a hunter :) We have a buck that chased a squirrel up a small tree. Too bad I happened to be in a preserve and without a firearm :D

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more coming....
 
At some point the buck deduced my thoughts and bounded off, I panned with him using the camera and love the dynamism of this shot! (sorry, I'm hijacking Rick's review!)..

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Here are some of the buck's rubbings and the S-curve on display.

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A little bit of fuzzies. Rick's knife is a pleasure to fuzz.

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I managed to pick my way out of all the brambles and found a nice tree stand to test the knives some more and to make some coffee. Also as per Doc Canada's suggestion, I harvested some milkweed stems for natural cordage.

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Okay, a few more comparison shots between the different 6-7.5" knives I own.

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more coming......
 
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I little bit of chopping. I didn't go crazy or anything, but compared the S-Curve to the SOD which my past test showed was my best chopper (it even beat out the RD-9).

10 chops.

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On this piece of wood, the SOD and S-curve were pretty equal, with the SOD getting a slight edge in depth and also in comfort. Its hard to beat that wide res-C handle for comfort. However, the S-curve wasn't very hard on the hand. I was holding it at the fat end of the handle and sort of snap cutting with my wrist rather than heavy momentum chopping as I was doing with the SOD. Basically, accuracy and an acute edge really helped the S-curve keep up with the brute force and momentum of the SOD.

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Snap cuts with S-curve allowed me to cleanly chop pieces that were the size of my thumbnail. However, not enough weight to chop through pieces the width of my thumb. The latter were no problem for the SOD. SOD winds on this exercise.

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Phew...Sweating...Time for a coffee!

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As I was enjoying my coffee, I stripped the fibers of the milkweed stems. I'm not sure I was going about it right, so hopefully Doc Canada will complete his tutorial on this. I did end up with a pile of fibres which I'm drying and will do revers twist after my finger heals.

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still more coming......
 
Time for some fuzzies. In this one I compared the S-curve against the RC-6 and my Koyote Mill's pattern Skinner.

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Okay, I'm going to give the 5" x 3/32" thick koyote the win here, but really the koyote and S-curve were really close in terms of producing thin, curly, curls. Contrast that with the thicker slices of the RC-6 which decidedly lost this round.

The Koyote and Magnussen do make a cute couple though!

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The S-curve did quite nicely carving sticks and stakes and sharpening points. I didn't really compare knives on this excercise, but the S-curve is a pleasure to use on these common whittling tasks.

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Now, just so you don't go and think I'm all too swooning over Rick, there was a bit of bad news in this. A careful inspection of the blade did show some mild edge damage.

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These are about 0.3 mm folds or chips. I tried steeling the edge on a large screw driver shank but they didn't come out so I think they might by micro-chips at the edge. Hey, it isn't super steel. I have to qualify that thus far I've put chips like this in all of my blades at one time or another. This includes the SOD, my RD-9, my RC-6 and my big Koyote leuku. Also to be fair to Rick, it could have happened when I cut my finger with his blade the other day (see Sneak peak of S-curve thread) and I may have dropped the blade on the cement floor. Honestly, I don't think I dropped the blade, but at the time I was extracting the knife from half way through my left index finger I wasn't being too careful of where I put it. Okay, enough of that. It will be very easy to removes those tiny weeny little marks. I just didn't want Rick to think his steel was indestructible.

Overall the S-curve is a fantastic package from versatile sheath system to a great all round blade. Personally I think I'd still like to pair the S-curve with a small 3" cutter for whittling (and bowdrill wedges). One day in the future I'll have to try to convince Rick to make a new sheath module that doubles as a dangler and also piggy backs a small 3" cutting blade to the rig. I think that will be just perfect!

The S-curve is the most expensive knife I ever bought. Is it worth it? To me it is. It is a blade that embodies almost all the best characteristics of my individual knives while making compromises in activities that seem less important to me. It does all of this and looks great too. The S-Curve is the closest I've ever come to saying, this is the one knife for me. Of course, I'm wise enough that there are likely a few more new knives in my life yet to come. The S-Curve will be the standard on which all of these are compared against.

There is also the fact that I consider Rick a good friend, a mentor in outdoorsy things, an all all round great participant in the on-going conversation that is W&SS and a local knife maker in my community. It is a great pleasure knowing that I can help support him and his craft in some measure through my patronage.
 
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Great review and she looks like a great woods tool! I really like the the grip... We have an old black walnut on our property, sometime I'll have take a little wood off of her....
 
Incredible knife! Great review! Thanks for sharing with us! S-curve has a special place in my mind now. I'll be adding it to "The List". As for me, I like one knife under 6 inches and one over 9. Two knives are better than one :D I can use one for finer tasks and one for brutish tasks.
 
Nice knife.
Where'd you go that there were deer at?

Hey Mark, I was at Ojibway. The deer and prancing around like crazy now. Also, got to handle that kewl karambit at the Wildertool shop. Thats going to be a neat one!

Thanks for your comments Mneedham and Iboshi. I need to go through and correct a bunch of my spelling mistakes on my posts. Trying to type with a bandaged finger is challenging!
 
Ok. I officially hate you. Just kidding. The knife is everything I imagined it to be. I can't afford one, but I like it! AND I WANT ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Great review, love the woods pics, makes me want to quit work and hang out in the woods, now for a pic of the finger, yes?
 
I am loving that knife, but thos are some outstanding photos of those bucks Ken!

Nice job
 
Awesome pictures, brother! That S curve is a sweet blade. It's not often you see a maker with outstanding skills making knives AND sheaths. That's a complete package.
 
Great review Ken. I liked this knife in Brian's Camp Knife challenge review, and I'm likin' it here too. That blade shouts character. Congratulations on a heck of a nice knife and thanks for the porn. Actually that knife is too nice to be called porn...dare I call it art?
 
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