Will a Steeper Bevel Allow Thinner Edge Before Heat Treat?

[redsquid2]

I am doing a scandi grind knife. If I am successful, it will be my first true scandi. The bevel is 11 degrees per side, 22 degrees inclusive. It looks really steep. I think of how much easier it would be to put the edge on, if it were thinner before H.T.

On other knives, I have gone down to .013" before H.T. No problems so far; I have not gotten the "ripple" effect that I have read about. I look at how steep this scandi is, and I wonder if I could go thinner.

Here is a picture. Steel is 1/8" thick A2.

What do y'all think?

Any feedback appreciated.

Andy

 

[David Stifle]

I guess it depends on it's purpose, but I see no reason to not bring your grind up. I'd probably raise it until it's about 1/3 the width of the blade. I usually leave my edge about the thickness of a dime, and haven't had any problems. Just Ht your blade with the edge up. But, that's just my opinion.
There's also no reason you can't leave it as is, and refine the edge/bevels as you wish after it's heat treated. Just be sure to keep it cool by frequently dipping the blade in water.

 

[redsquid2]

I made this narrow bevel based on youtube videos. I searched for videos of people making bushcraft knives. Seems like a lot of them did 11 degrees/side bevels.

I looked at pictures of Yuro Puronvarsi, Pekka tuominen and old style Mora knives, and I combined design elements to come up with this profile. It is experimental. I was hoping to create a versatile woodcarving tool.

 

[chavez556]

That is a good looking grind squid! I might have missed it. But are you going for a scandi grind on this knife?

 

[redsquid2]

That is a good looking grind squid! I might have missed it. But are you going for a scandi grind on this knife?

Thanks, chavez. Yes, I am going for a scandi. I guess after I get it back from h.t., I will sand it down to zero, by hand, with sanding block and sandpaper. I would not dare try to reach zero using my 2X42 grinder.

 

[daizee]

A2 is really stable in heat-treat. Slap it on some aluminum plates or cut the air.
In my limited experience, the waviness is often a product of waving the hot blade side-to-side during an oil quench.

 

[Drew Riley]

Are you asking if you would be able to grind to (or almost to) zero before heat treat, or if you would be able to grind less than 11 degrees per side?

I just made my first scandi knife, and I just heat treated the rough blank and did all my grinding after heat treat. I ended up taking it down to 10 degrees per side (20 inclusive), and didn't really have any problems.

If I were going to hand grind the final bevel, I'd want it as close as I could get it.

Like daizee said, A2 is pretty stable. As long as your bevels are fairly even, you shouldn't have much problem taking down to about .005 to .010 or so. Maybe even less?

 

[redsquid2]

Are you asking if you would be able to grind to (or almost to) zero before heat treat, or if you would be able to grind less than 11 degrees per side?

I just made my first scandi knife, and I just heat treated the rough blank and did all my grinding after heat treat. I ended up taking it down to 10 degrees per side (20 inclusive), and didn't really have any problems.

If I were going to hand grind the final bevel, I'd want it as close as I could get it.

Like daizee said, A2 is pretty stable. As long as your bevels are fairly even, you shouldn't have much problem taking down to about .005 to .010 or so. Maybe even less?

Thanks, knife. I am happy to have your input. I was referring to taking it down as close to zero as possible before H.T. I do all of my final bevels by hand.