Will bad thing happen if I try to use this as a contact wheel (pic) on a DIY grinder?

scotchleaf

scotchleaf

Joined
Oct 23, 2006
Messages
2,232
its a solid rubber wheel

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-x-2-1-2-half-inch-solid-rubber-tire-35459.html

image_17498.jpg
 
I'd be worried about the quality of the bearing and the supporting metal. Harbor Freight isn't known for quality parts.

You'd also have to true up the wheel and make sure it's balanced.
 
I looked at a lot of wheels like this when I was building my grinder, but even the best ones I found still had too much slop in the bearings and were too out of round and out of balance to spend the time trying to salvage one.
 
Dan, aren't you supposed to get a 10-12 inch wheel to convex a blade?

Stone: what is the diameter of that wheel? Also, my understanding is that the wheel should be flat rather than rounded.
 
Scotch, contact wheels come in an assortment of sizes depending on what you need to accomplish. Generally speaking, the last place you want to go cheap is the part of the grinder that spins fast and touches your knife. If you skimp everywhere else, don't skimp here!
 
Dan, your work is incredibly nice - how long have you been making knives? I normally just look at the production knives because of cost issues. I particularly like your handles.
 
DanGraves said:
VaughnT is correct "the last place you want to go cheap is the part of the grinder that spins fast and touches your knife. If you skimp everywhere else, don't skimp here!" Here is a wheel that is 8" at a good price. http://www.trick-tools.com/8_inch_Contact_Wheel_for_Multitool_8CW_MTCTWL_8CW_1168#.Ukl85D8lIdV Or you can have sunray build one for you. I flat grind mostly on the platen. Yes a wheel should be flat and you would want a serrated contact wheel IMHO.
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Would the issue be actual danger, or just reduced quality of grinds? I am using a treadmill as the motor, so I'll have variable speed. I'm asking since I could go ahead and start grinding for practice with the cheapo wheel, then get a quality wheel when my budget permits - but I don't want to do this if it could result in medical bills.
 
I have seen people use wheels similar to that, but my concern is that they as not made for the high rpm. A 10 inch wheel at 4000 sfpm is running over 1000 rpm. Also if a piece of the tread comes off; keep in mind it would be travelling fast enough to cause some serious damage or injury.
 
Learning to grind on a machine with wheels that don't run true and won't track a belt would be like trying to drive a car down a race track with a bent axle.
 
Contact wheels are used to concave (hollow grind) blades, not convex grind.
 
When you respond like this it tells me that you are leaning towards the cheapo route. Nothing in knifemaking is cheap. If you cheap out you are going to be buying the piece of crap wheel you have shown and then you will end up buying the quality wheel as well. so in fact you will be buying two wheels. Take the advice given. It is good sound advice.


scotchleaf said:
Would the issue be actual danger, or just reduced quality of grinds? I am using a treadmill as the motor, so I'll have variable speed. I'm asking since I could go ahead and start grinding for practice with the cheapo wheel, then get a quality wheel when my budget permits - but I don't want to do this if it could result in medical bills.
Click to expand...
 
Marko3 said:
When you respond like this it tells me that you are leaning towards the cheapo route. Nothing in knifemaking is cheap. If you cheap out you are going to be buying the piece of crap wheel you have shown and then you will end up buying the quality wheel as well. so in fact you will be buying two wheels. Take the advice given. It is good sound advice.
Click to expand...

Yep Buy once and cry once.
 
The grizzly 10" wheel with machined pockets for bearings will likely cost you about $120 all done. That is a good wheel according to reviews of some on the forum. Go with a wheel that is proven. I second the buy once snd cry once, but with mentality get a BMW 10" and don't look back.
 
There is something to be said about trust , performance and the satisfaction with use of proper equipment. With proper equipment you can see your mistakes and hone in your skills. With questionable equipment, it can be difficult to solve any grinding difficulty you may have- asking yourself- is it the wheel or is it me.- Marekz
 
The other way to go is, you can cut a curved platen of rock maple to go over your flat platen. You can make them in any radius you desire and they do actually last quite a while with or without the graphite platen pads if you are not a full time maker. That way, you can use whatever size drive/contact wheel you find available.
 
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