Will convexing help prevent this...

Don't doubt INFI. Just remember it's best known for it's increased toughness. This means it's less likely to chip out but it will deform if you beat it enough. If you treat your INFI like it should be treated, you will eventually want to learn how to realign your edge. Cheers!
 
From your edge pictures what you have is a secondary bevel which was done on the NMFBM CG models....this means that the blade has a convex shape but the final edge is a V grind which as close as you can get is in alignment with the convex primary grind. I had the same on my NMFBM....all you need to do is use a heavy rounded screw driver like a butcher's steel...or spend the money on an Eze Lap Model "M" diamond steel which is portable and heavy duty and can be used to shape the rolls in the blade back into place.

This Eze Lap steel comes with a brass cover tube and screws apart or together whichever way you look at it.....and is ideal for in the field use with Infi "chopping" knives.

To check the roll is back in alignment I carry a SAK with a magnifying lens...I think mine is the "Champ" model and just use that to check the edge...

Once the edge is back in alignment I use a Spyderco "white" or fine ceramic rod to bring the edge back to shaving sharp....again you can carry these in the field and just put both in a belt pouch for a lock knife...or whatever is similar and works...

To ensure you use the steel and the rod at the right consistant angle get a pipe cleaner and fit the ceramic rod into a Spyderco sharp maker....if you have'nt got one of these buy one....it is the best touch up sharpener on the market IMO...bend the pipe cleaner into a "L" shape so that when held vertically the top of the L contacts the rod and so does the bottom right end. That then gives you a reference device as to the correct angle to hold the Eze Lap or Rod at when using them. The pipe cleaner easily folds up and goes into the same pouch. You simply open it up to a right angle and place it on a log or whatever you use to rest the rod or sharpener on at the base before commencing to steel the edge and afterwards sharpen the edge.

I usually use a couple of thick sticks and carve myself a simple rest for both...it only takes a minute if you use the ground to stick the twigs in...

Then do a few strokes each side...it will soon be back on song:thumbup:

When I was a novice at sharpening and worried a lot about the wrong angle etc...this gave me confidence...you can carry a magic marker if need be and colour the edge to enable you to see how the steel is being removed from it...the SAK magnifying glass works a treat here...

After time...it all comes easy...but these steps enable you to know you are doing it right...

What you don't want to do is use these restoration techniques to re-profile an edge...that's what takes forever...and a belt sander does not invalidate a warranty...at least not with a Busse and not if used right...hell...there are guys who have chopped through lamp-posts and coins with these things and still been able to use the warranty...using a belt sander to re-profile an edge is a whole new topic and covered many times before...but again it is a great technique to master...and I would definately recommend it.:thumbup:

I will post some pic's of the stuff I use and how to use them in the field if this is'nt easily followed but it is dark over here now and will need to be tomorrow.
 
The WE is a bit expensive and it only gives you a flat grind edge....not convex which you would get with the pad and paper....check out Horn Dog's edges using a belt sander with fine finishing belts...they to have a nice mirror finish...and they are convex...but you need to remember that a few minutes working with the edge and it is'nt a mirror finish any more...and it takes a lot of extra time to do this...at the end of the day...sharp is sharp...
 
MustardMan said:
I played with a wicked edge setup at BLADE atlanta, and it worked fine on a full flat grind blade.

That said, it's WAY overpriced for what it is. For the simplicity of the system, it ought to cost about 50 bucks IMHO.


If you have absolutely no skill at sharpening, the wicked edge thing might help you, but there are a lot of cheaper systems that will work with some practice.
Click to expand...

Personally I like the Edge Pro. :D

I use that and my Sharpmaker these days, although I still have my Japanese water stones I have had forever. :)
 
Hey Stump Buster,

I have an edgepro apex that I have not used for a while now. If you are interested in this system send me an email @ krg2484@yahoo.com. It is just taking up space.

Kevin
 
Stump Buster said:
This is the post from the Yard Forum that caused me to look at the wicked edge.

http://www.scrapyardknives.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=326251&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

I almost cut my eyes just looking at the results. If you guys think the WE is too expensive, I'll keep working on the paper and pad technique.

Thanks Again,

Stump
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I think the Edge Pro is a better tool, easier to set up and more confortable to use.

The results on that Scrap are good but not perfect, the angle at the tip is too small, the secondary bevel is wider at the tip and narrower in the rest of the blade

The smooth part of a drill bit (part near the base) should work fine to realign the edge
 
richstag said:
I think that video is comical.

I would just sharpen it on sandpaper. It is fairly difficult to screw up.
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it is very easy to screw up. I've done it many times :p

The video is pretty funny, and was worth watching as most of the problems presented were ones I'd probably notice if I used it. My biggest problem with the apex is the 120grit stones composition could be tighter, they wear down pretty fast. but only the 120's, all the other ones are used to fine out the previous grits scratches so they don't take any of the brunt work. it can't take larger work like axes, but the stones work great as file replacements, and I you run into issues with convex edges and small knives since they need to rest flat and project from the table.

But even with those problems it's still awesome and worth every penny. even without the table, the stones themselves are immensely valuable, I bought a 220 stone and a 600 to carry around on camping trips. It would suck to see them ever stop producing them.
 
BlackDiamond said:
The results on that Scrap are good but not perfect, the angle at the tip is too small, the secondary bevel is wider at the tip and narrower in the rest of the blade
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You can't judge the angle by the bevel width. Most of the hard use knives I've seen from Busse, Bark River and Rat Cutlery actually get thicker towards the tip and for good reason. Thus the bevel will be wider there even though the angle is the same.
 
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