Will this mineral oil work?

CrazzyAzzy said:
So either straight and simple wax or a petroleum based stick if I want something solid? The whole oily rag thing really bothers me because I'm a neat freak and oils and I do not mix well.
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If I were choosing, I think the petroleum-based would likely do better at staying on the steel. A big part of the selling point of so-called 'rust preventers' and other protectants is how it gets into every pore of the steel, and therefore does a better job setting up a barrier against moisture. Most all of them are mineral oil-based anyway, and I think there's good reason for that.

Some pure (hard) waxes may not work into the steel's pores in the same way, and may also not hold as well (as I see it).


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
If I were choosing, I think the petroleum-based would likely do better at staying on the steel. A big part of the selling point of so-called 'rust preventers' and other protectants is how it gets into every pore of the steel, and therefore does a better job setting up a barrier against moisture. Most all of them are mineral oil-based anyway, and I think there's good reason for that.

Some pure (hard) waxes may not work into the steel's pores in the same way, and may also not hold as well (as I see it).


David
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I see. Well I guess I'm just gonna throw one of my chapsticks in the sheath. Thanks for all your input guys!
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
If I were choosing, I think the petroleum-based would likely do better at staying on the steel. A big part of the selling point of so-called 'rust preventers' and other protectants is how it gets into every pore of the steel, and therefore does a better job setting up a barrier against moisture. Most all of them are mineral oil-based anyway, and I think there's good reason for that.

Some pure (hard) waxes may not work into the steel's pores in the same way, and may also not hold as well (as I see it).


David
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This thread got me thinking about grabbing one of those bars of wax that they sell at Walmart for caning. I agree though, I can't see that working well without a lot of effort.

I've got a couple of very nice Fiddleback Forge knives coming so I'll need to figure out something to protect the o1. I like a patina, but these are too expensive to risk rust and I plan to use them. May have to dig up that rust protection product review thread. ;)
 
Renaissance Wax is the stuff I've used on blades for years. It is a bit more expensive than Johnson's paste wax, but makes a really hard durable thin coating that is great for rust prevention.

TedP
 
CrazzyAzzy said:
No chance of softening the wax with a little heat to get it more malleable?
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I'm sure you could. But, considering how much effort you'd go through to coat the blade in the first place, it seems to me it'd just be simpler to give the blade a quick wipe with some Chapstick on a fingertip, or mineral oil, and probably get at least the same benefit in the end, if not more.

If the knife is going to get used frequently, whatever is applied to the blade is going to come off pretty quickly anyway, via abrasion/scrubbing off, or cleaning. In this context, it would make sense to me to use something that's handy & quickly applied with little hassle.


David
 
phillipsted said:
Renaissance Wax is the stuff I've used on blades for years. It is a bit more expensive than Johnson's paste wax, but makes a really hard durable thin coating that is great for rust prevention.

TedP
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I also buy Mineral oil at the drug store or market. Very low coat.
As Ted mentioned, Ren wax or Johnson's and canning wax will work as well, You can use a candlestick for that matter. Animal, Mineral or plant in origin, once its refined. Its wax and will coat and protect the blade.
 
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