Wilton Grinder is DEAD

T

That Other Guy

Joined
Nov 24, 2005
Messages
77
Hello Everyone,

Its been a while since I've posted and I've let my paid subscription lapse (remedied soon) so I can't search the forums. Has something like this happened to anyone else? I was minding my own business, grinding away on a little hanger/sword for my son and I'm not sure if my Wilton shut off as I flipped the switch off or if it shut off before I switched it off- It was all very close. Anyway, it won't turn back on. Its an old square wheel grinder with a Westinghouse 1hp motor. The only other time something like this happened, was when I needed to replace a capacitor in my air conditioner unit- I really thought it was the capacitor this time, too. I checked the capacitor with the IT Guy's multimeter, thought it was bad, took it to work with me, IT Guy tested it, said it was good, after the Hardware store Guy tested it and said it was good- their readings were different from mine. But they all seemed to agree that it sounded like the capacitor before testing it. Now they all suggest that it is the switch. One of the wires inside the switch box is a little frayed and one of the strands looked like it was touching another wire. I'm not at all confident about the readings I got with the multimeter on the switch or the plug on the other end of the wire. I'm probably going to just replace the switch and make fresh connections...if that doesn't work, what else would you suggest?
Thanks!
Elias
 
First make sure it didn't trip a breaker, so test the outlet. Second, if you have iffy wiring replace it if you are capable. Third, check any built in protection circuits or fuses on the motor. Check for burnt/damaged connections.

Easy way to check the switch is unplug the motor short out the switch, then use an external switch or just plug it in and see if it runs.

Also, if on a GFCI protected circuit a short to ground could cause the GFCI to trip even if it is only on the order of a few milliamps. Make sure that isn't tripped if it is on the circuit.

Best of luck, also on the capacitor, doesn't hurt to replace it, imo they are fickle devices.
 
I have an Olympic, purchased in 1976/77. I have had two switches go out, but nothing else so far.
 
Mine has an a I guess heat overload switch under the motor. I have gotten it too hot and it will stop then when it cools down then you can push it to reset. Blew out the motor all the fines and has not happened since.
 
My Square wheel has been in use since "73....as said the switches do
go out, mostly because they face upward and dust (etc) gets inside...
I've replaced mine several times. But....when the switch goes, It's
usually intermitent for a while first.
The other thing, is the built in breaker...on mine it's a small button on
the back of the motor, and trips routinely when I'm flat grinding due
to the added friction between the belt and platten.
It takes 20 minutes (or more) for the motor to cool enough to reset.
 
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I agree with the other posts. Check the breaker, then the thermal overload switch on the motor. If those are OK, you can pretty much bet its the switch. My Square Wheel has been in use for 25+ years now, and has gone through about 6-8 switches. I just pull the old one, take it with me to the local electrical supply store and get a new one....around $12 the last time I purchased one.
 
Switch, I"ve replaced one in my 1977 square wheel, and 2 in a 1 horse baldor buffer
same vintage.
Ken.
 
the good news is the Wilton is okay, you may need a new motor. If it isn't the Cap, or the switch, then make sure the vent holes if any are clear of dust and dirt. Spin the spindle by hand and check for binding. If it binds through all rotation, a bad bearing my be the culprit. Does your motor have replaceable brushes?

If there is a electric motor rebuilder in your area, see how much it will cost. Or maybe a local place you can find a farm duty 1 horse motor to swap in.

Good luck
 
If the switches are susceptible to failure, then I would consider upgrading the replacement to a higher capacity.
 
mine lasted 16 years before needing replaced take the switch and have it matched up at the elec. supply store wilton wants nearly a hundred for a $6.00 switch
 
Guys,

Thanks for the replies! In no particular order: This is an old wilton I picked up from ebay 3-4 years ago for a song because it was listed by motor, not by grinder/brand. The drive wheel spins freely. I can't find any switches on the exterior of the motor except for the power switch- is the thermal switch inside the motor casing? I can't find any diagrams on the net for the motor.

I drew a diagram of what the dmm read when I tested various wire combos for continuity on the switch- IT Guy looked at it and said the switch seems bad. For what it is worth, the inside of the switch box is kinda filthy. On Friday I will be replacing the switch using fresh wiring and possibly replacing the power cord or at least cutting it back and making new contacts. I also have a new, possibly identical capacitor waiting on me courtesy of an AC repair buddy.

I am usually not intimidated by tearing stuff apart, like guns, lawn mowers or saws...but this grinder is different somehow...and it plugs into the sparky stuff that comes from the powerlines.

Thanks for all the support here- keep it coming.
 
Everyone,

I replaced the switch and power cord and the grinder came back to life!!! I left the capacitor alone. I had 2 problems: none of the local stores carry a spade contact switch- I had to use one with screws, which will be more tedious to replace next time; and the helpful hardware guy at Ace couldn't understand why I wanted the 300v rated js 14/3 cord and a plug instead of a 125v rated appliance cord. I showed him the old cord (300v js js 14/3) and still had to get another guy to help me. I couldn't find any closed cell foam sheets, so I sealed the capacitor cover and switch box with liquid electrical tape and put on a rubber toggle switch boot since there was some dust buildup before.

I sort of had a backup plan if the Wilton was really dead until a rebuild- there was a Wysong 166" grinder on ebay the other day for a buy it now price of $100.00 plus $600.00 shipping. I only live about 4hrs from the seller, but I dragged my feet asking about pickup (turns out he wouldn't charge for pickup and I should have hit the buy it now button) and while I was at work, some joker snagged it for $26.00...plus shipping. Talk about disappointment- I can only hope someone here got it.

Back to the Wilton, I was sitting there waiting for the electrical tape to dry, thinking about how I had no lower grit belts, except some junky, thin ones off ebay that rip... and a recent post about belts and BarbKat kept coming to mind. I looked up at some old shipping boxes, noticed one from BarbKat, looked inside and found a bunch of 60, 80 and 120 grit belts!!! I'll be in the garage all weekend!!

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions!
 
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