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Winkler knives II Combat Axe

WKIICombat.jpg


Daniel, is this available in S7 steel?

Pardon me but i just have this stupid thought that S7 might be a better steel than 5160 when it comes to breaching.

Having said that i've got an S7 chopper from Jeremy Horton which i love a lot~

Thanks

Jay
 
DWinkler said:
My WK II Combat Axe is made from 3/8" thick 5160. It has a skeletonized full tapered tang just like the Sayoc models. The weight is about 1.5 lbs with the Maple handle and a bit more with Micarta or rubber. The length is 14". I also like the straighter handle; it makes the spike end more effective for breaching type operations. This axe is also a good bit less expensive than the Sayoc Hawks. Same quality, just less production time and no royalties.

Daniel
QUOTE]

Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
At 3/8", I would think that 5160 would be just about unbreakable. I don't think human strength could damage it too bad.
The only S7 hawk I am aware of is from GGG, the Battle Hawk. It's also 3/8" thick, or .400" thick.
I own it, and at 44 oz, it's a bit slow. The edge is pretty wide, so chopping wood is out, but man it delivers a punch. I got mine shipped for $200.
 
I use S-7 for Breeching and Rescue axes. I could make a WK II Combat with S-7 but the 5160 has good shock resistant properties and a little better edge holding for a design that won’t be doing a lot of chopping materials harder than wood. The S-7 seems to dull quicker but no matter what I hit there has been no deformation. Cinder blocks, sheet metal, glass and heavy gage steel have all been used as test subjects. Sheet metal is a breeze with either. Auto Glass seems to break before any deformation with both. I have gotten some edge damage on the 5160 on blocks and thick metal but that could be due to the thinner grind on a combat axe compared to a breeching axe.

Wood cuts better and faster with the Combat Axe (5160) than the Rescue Axe (S-7) but again I feel it has more to do with the grind than the steel. Another thing I have noticed is I get a more powerful cut with a lighter weight axe. When the weight balance is mostly in the head as I get with the tapered or milled tang I seem to get more power in the hit. I guess it is the same as when I am forging. I hit harder with a 2lb hammer than I do with a 4 lb hammer. More speed I guess.

Daniel
 
The edge geometry is as important of a factor than the steel, it seems anyway.
Great looking tools Daniel. I'll get one someday, for sure a combat axe.
 
I could make a WK II Combat with S-7 but the 5160 has good shock resistant properties and a little better edge holding for a design that won’t be doing a lot of chopping materials harder than wood. The S-7 seems to dull quicker but no matter what I hit there has been no deformation. Cinder blocks, sheet metal, glass and heavy gage steel have all been used as test subjects. Sheet metal is a breeze with either. Auto Glass seems to break before any deformation with both. I have gotten some edge damage on the 5160 on blocks and thick metal but that could be due to the thinner grind on a combat axe compared to a breeching axe.
Click to expand...

Daniel,

I believed WKII combat Axe is possible with S7 steel since it's built for breaching. Sayoc hawk with spike would be excellent (no, it's an understatement, it crazy rocks!) for CQC and the story of Etwood whacking through the kevlar with it really put the hammer down.

If you could do the combo of WKII combat Axe with S7 steel, as it's so darn tough, could the grind be maintained so BOTH breaching and chopping wood is possible? I'm considering this combo as multi-tool and durable enough for breaching. Only if i have an challenging job like Etwood i would get the Sayoc as well!

For some reason S7 dulls really quick. I have to strop again and again.

On handle wise, would you recommend wood or micarta for durability issue?

Thanks Dan!

Jay
 
JayGoliath,

I could alter the grind with either the WK II Combat axe or the Sayoc/Winkler RnD Hawk to make them more suitable for breeching. It is a trade off and you will have to give a little to get a little. I also believe it would take a side by side test to tell the difference in the S-7 and the 5160. The S-7 axe will cost a little more, around $50. I have also been talking to a metallurgist about trying one of the H series steels. H 14 I think. It may have some promise.

It seems the wear resistance for the S-7 is not really high so you have to sharpen more often but it sharpens easily, another trade off to get high shock resistance.

Micarta is going to be the tougher handle material but most of the Military guy's I work with get wood. I have been told the beauty is a little reminder of home and each scratch and ding is a lead into a story.

Daniel
 
I have also been talking to a metallurgist about trying one of the H series steels. H 14 I think. It may have some promise.
Click to expand...

Daniel,

I tried look up at wikipedia and found this :
H-grade tool steels were developed for strength and hardness during prolonged exposure to elevated temperatures. All of these tool steels use a substantial amount of carbide forming alloys. H1 to H19 are based on a chromium content of 5%; H20 to H39 are based on a tungsten content of 9%-18% and a chromium content of 3%–4%; H40 to H59 are molybdenum based.

http://www.precisionheattreat.com/toolsteels.html:
"HOT WORK DIE STEELS "H', series
These are designed for hot working applications such as forging and also for dies in the die casting of zinc and some copper alloys. The low carbon content (about .35%) and high alloy content principally chromium, tungsten or molybdenum gives a combination of deep hardening , resistance to scaling and resistance to heat cracking. They are also among the toughest of the tool steels when used at normal temperatures. Common grade H13. "

Is there a reason why you select H14? For rust resistant purposes without compromising the strength?

Thanks again Dan!

Jay:)
 
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How is this axe for camping/wood working? I really like the design but have little need to breach a door. :D
 
Shotgun said:
How is this axe for camping/wood working? I really like the design but have little need to breach a door. :D
Click to expand...

Its a hell of a chopper, but if you want more of a worker you might want to look at Mr Winklers hunters axe.
 
Ed, hows the Combat Axe working out for you? What are your takes now after a week? Especially on the grip and balance compared to the Sayoc we both own?

I have always had in my training a blunt force hit with file edge, this Combat Axe looks perfect for that.
 
Hi Mr.Winkler,

I sent you an email about this axe.

Kindly get back whenever you can.

Thanks

Jay
 
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