WIP: 52100 240mm Wa-Handle Gyuto

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Präzision

Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Messages
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Hello all,

In the coming months, I'll be building the below specified knife. I'm creating a WIP thread to document the progress......good, bad, or otherwise.

Type: 240mm (9.5") Gyuto
Steel: Aldo's 52100
Hardness: TBD......most likely 61rc. However I may push it to 63rc.
Handle: Japanese wa handle. Epicurean Edge has some nice replacement handles I'll probably use.

This pic shows the tagboard blade profile pattern. The tang design hasn't been finalized, however the blade profile has been.

Sorry about the crappy photo....my camera sucks.
IMG_3771.jpg
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I've ordered the steel from Aldo, and the grinding belts from Supergrit. It will likely be a few weeks until I have the material and time to do the stock removal, the profiling, and the bevel grinding.

I'll keep this thread up-to-date with the progress.
 
Präzision;13042302 said:
I've ordered the steel from Aldo, and the grinding belts from Supergrit. It will likely be a few weeks until I have the material and time to do the stock removal, the profiling, and the bevel grinding.

I'll keep this thread up-to-date with the progress.
Click to expand...

I'd make the spine curve longer and smoother and add a little length on the tang.

I make my tangs as long as I can then cut them down when done because I like having the long handle to hold while grinding.
 
Looks pretty good! Depending on whom it is for there may be one problem, if the intended user prefers the "rocking" method. About and inch and change from the heel there is a harsh angle translation from the cutting edge, if someone is coming back from a a chop or mince, that is usually the point in the stroke where they rest and reset for the next stroke. Having a pivot point there would lead to many possible unstable situations. Other than that looks like a fair variation on a classic gyto, have fun!
 
I'd make the spine curve longer and smoother and add a little length on the tang.

I make my tangs as long as I can then cut them down when done because I like having the long handle to hold while grinding.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it.

The tang design hasn't been finalized yet, so I essentially left it "blank". I'm planning on installing a Japanese wa-handle.........and am still researching how the tang needs to be designed in order to properly retain said wa-handle.

Also, as Midwinter mentioned above, I'm going for a classic Gyuto design which has a straight spine until close to the tip.
 
Looks pretty good! Depending on whom it is for there may be one problem, if the intended user prefers the "rocking" method. About and inch and change from the heel there is a harsh angle translation from the cutting edge, if someone is coming back from a a chop or mince, that is usually the point in the stroke where they rest and reset for the next stroke. Having a pivot point there would lead to many possible unstable situations. Other than that looks like a fair variation on a classic gyto, have fun!
Click to expand...

I see what you're saying about the pivot point on the blade you're referring to. However, there actually isn't a pivot point there.....it's just a bad photo that doesn't do a good job of fully showing the blade profile.

Thanks for the feedback!
 
Okay......

Got my grinding belts in from Supergrit. The steel is still on it's way from Aldo...........

My planned grinding progression is detailed as follows (unless anyone has any better suggestions). I've used this progression in the past with decent success.

1) 60grit Bora7 Purple for hoggin (well....as best as I can with my craftsman 2x42)
2) 120grit Bora7 Purple for removing the 60grit scratches, and finalizing the flat-grind bevel
3) 240grit gatorback for removing the 120grit scratches
4) 400grit gatorback for removing the 240grit scratches
5) Fine Scotchbrite belt to leave a nice machine finish

I also purchased 400, 600, and 800grit cork belts to try out as well. I want to take the finish down from 400grit to 800grit, and am interested in what these cork belts are capable of. I am aware of the break-in procedure for cork belts, and plan on properly carrying it out.
 
Just noticed you aren't far from my neck of the woods. I've been to Epicurean Edge a few tims myself. Used to buy my damascus there.

Good luck on the build. If you change your mind and decide to make your own handle let me know and I'll give you a piece or two of stabilized wood to use.
 
On a pre-made wa handle, you do one of two things.
1) If the hole is pretty close to the tang thickness - fill the hole with black epoxy and push in the tang. Wipe off all run-out and clean off well with acetone. Let dry ( tip upward) and then clean again with acetone and lightly sand the handle.
2) If the handle has a large hole - using wood that matches the handle ferule, make two 2-3" long thin wedges that will fill the space on both sides of the tang. They should fit with about 1/2" extra sticking out when pushed in snug. Put epoxy in the hole, set in the tang, put in the wedges, and tap them down snug. Wipe up the handle as best you can and let dry as above. When dry, carefully trim the extra wood even with the handle front (razor saw or sharp knife works best) and lightly sand as needed.
 
On a pre-made wa handle, you do one of two things.
1) If the hole is pretty close to the tang thickness - fill the hole with black epoxy and push in the tang. Wipe off all run-out and clean off well with acetone. Let dry ( tip upward) and then clean again with acetone and lightly sand the handle.
2) If the handle has a large hole - using wood that matches the handle ferule, make two 2-3" long thin wedges that will fill the space on both sides of the tang. They should fit with about 1/2" extra sticking out when pushed in snug. Put epoxy in the hole, set in the tang, put in the wedges, and tap them down snug. Wipe up the handle as best you can and let dry as above. When dry, carefully trim the extra wood even with the handle front (razor saw or sharp knife works best) and lightly sand as needed.
Click to expand...

This is great information.....thanks for posting.

Epicurean Edge installs wa handles for $25, and I plan on outsourcing that work to them this time around. Besides, Daniel O'Malley gave me some great key design pointers......and I'd like to kick some money their way. Also, I am designing the tang dimensions to fit perfectly with the wa handles that Epicurean Edge has in their inventory.....so fit won't be an issue.
 
Traditionally a Japanese knife has a tapered tang sort of like that on a file but longer and tapered in both dimensions. The tang is heated and burned into the handle hitting the butt of the handle with a wooden mallet while holding
the blade straight up in the air to drive the 2 parts together.
 
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