WIP: Diving knife mod (handle and sheath)

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Sep 19, 2007
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Hi,

Been a long time since I posted anything here (used to, but not lately).

After seen what I did with a diving knife for my personal use, a friend of mine from a spearfishing forum showed some interest about getting something done in a knife of his. Giving he is an electronic engineer by trade and had been modifying spearfishing lights for years now, we worked out a trade. I would modify his knife and he would modify (update to LED emmiter with constant current circuits and such) my ancient Omer Moonlight. Win win.


This is the knife. I think it is from SEATEC


01-Original_01_zpsrfjpncf4.jpg



Hadn't been used in a while. It doesn't have any kind of guard and the smallish handle didn't allow to exert much force with it without slipping. Sheath is also kind of crappy since it didn't allow for a quick draw and requires three hands to operate.

First the rubber rings re removed. Even beeing stainless, rust stains all over the place.

02-Original_02_zpshz9m7cno.jpg



The litthe tabs meant for retaining the rubber O rings in place are already gone and I have scketched some finger notches to aid in the retention.


03-Mod%20Layout_zpsb9jlrw5r.jpg



Knife handle are ground (die grinder with carbide burr). It will also get two stainless pins. On the back side there was an existing hole (3mm or so) but in the front it didn't have any. It is hardened stainless. Usually, if I can center punch it, I can drill it... but this time I tried to center punch it and I just blunted my center punch... ohhhhh crap. Recently I bought a set of 10 2mm solid carbide drill bits online and they DO work. However, I didn't place any backing on the exit side and I broke the drill bit when it was comming out. Other than that, they work great. Something like $15 per set. Carbide is brittle and in this diameter, quite delicate. I don't have a mill. I was using it in a drill press.

04-GroundANDdrilled_zpsbannzfnn.jpg


Handle material. Home brew micarta. Original handle is small, so it is time to extend it a bit on the back side (even though it will not have metal to support it.

Blade thickness is 4mm, so I routed (I will I could mill it!) a 2mm relieve on the back half of the handle using my table router (I built it for speargun making).

05-HandleMaterialMilling_zpsnmsqfm7b.jpg


Handles traced on the micarta block.

06-HandleMaterialLayout_zpsi1pqujh2.jpg


Handle slabs cut with the jigsaw.

07-HandlesCut_zpsgjuvkhos.jpg



Drilling for pins. You know how it goes.

08-HandlesDrilled_zps2suzbhfg.jpg


It is going to have a lanyard tube (aluminium 6mm od, 4mm id). Sandwitch ready for glueing. Even though it is meant to be symetric, I marked both sides to be sure not to exchange them.


09-HandlesPinnedANDmarked_zpsuw1cvm4n.jpg



Front edge of the scales finished.

10-FrontOfScalesFinished_zps4goe71w9.jpg


Epoxy to the rescue

11-ReadyForGlue_zpsdwunsbym.jpg


Degreased with acetone, expoxy mixed, off we go to smear one side and put the pins through

12-GlueingHandleSlabs_zps9wsiofdb.jpg


Now the other side. And left undisturbed for 12 hours at least. I let it sit for three days, since I didn't have time to work on it

13-Glued_zpsfpoy35jx.jpg
 
Back in bussiness. Handle squared and ground all the way to the metal with the belt grinder. Finger grooves with the die grinder and abrasive barrel

14-Shaping01_zpsel6a0txz.jpg


The edge looks like this. Quite plieased that the glue line almost doesn't show up

15-Shaping02_zpstfleobhe.jpg


Yes, I am ugly. But safety first. Grinding this crap is no good for your lungs (polyester resin)

16-DuhhhPicture_zpsvho45opc.jpg


I tapered it a little bit on the back side. Both in width and thickness.

17-Shaping03_zpsccrjfhnm.jpg


18-Shaping04_zpspp3wuv1w.jpg


And now the corners are rounded. First with the belt grinder and then by hand. I left it at 320 or so, no need to polish it any more, it could make it too slippery (is going to be used underwater with gloves). Lanyard tube is countersunk and polished with one of those felt cones in the Dremmel and polishig compound.

19-Contouring01_zpsvyiszart.jpg


And so far, this is the result

20-Contouring02_zpsf2pspguu.jpg


21-Contouring03_zpshrewscvp.jpg


22-Contouring04_zpskexqbp0i.jpg


I need to put together the seath (kydex). I will be using stainless chicago screws, since the rivets I found locally are all steel (instead of brass) and in a previous sheath I made for my diving knife, they are rusting quite fast. I need to order some from Knifekits.com, but the shipping charges are quite step for a small order.

Wil update once I get the chance to work on the sheath.

Thanks for watching! I hope it helps anyone out there thinking about doing the same.
 
That looks infinitely more useful than the original. Nice work.
 
Thanks Kuraki, I certainly expect it to be used as a knife now! In its original form it was an accident waiting to happen (fingers cut I mean).
 
Wow, that original was certainly an... Interesting knife-like object. Very functional improvements!
 
Yes that looks about a billion times better. The original design had me like "what the hell?"

You certainly did that thing justice.
 
a local shoe repair shop might be a source for brass rivets or eyelets to use on the kydex sheath
 
Wow, that original was certainly an... Interesting knife-like object. Very functional improvements!
Yes that looks about a billion times better. The original design had me like "what the hell?"
You certainly did that thing justice.
Well, the cut out in the blade area is there for a reason. The roundish end of the cutout slides over the end of a shaft and then you slide it sideways to get the rear notch of the shaft (the one that locks in the speargun mechanishms) to allow you to twist or pull a shaft... in the event you get it stuck in the reef or something. The blade is not a bad design for us, but the handle was not very usefull.

nice job !
I have just realised that they sell stainless steel daggers (Scubastore, under the diving knives category) which are not too expensive. I may get one of those and put a nice dagger together. But first I need to practice some more with Kydex.

a local shoe repair shop might be a source for brass rivets or eyelets to use on the kydex sheath
Yes, I happen to have a leatherworking supply company a few minutes away driving. Problem is that all the rivets they have, regardless of the material, are split on the non riveted side. THey are not smooth like the ones sold in Knifekits. And they look like crap on sheaths.

Mikel
 
Use brass or copper tubing and flare the two sides. You could even use solid brass or copper stock and make them as solid rivets. If you want, a head spinner or cup burr will make them perfect domes after peening them.
 
As others have said that looks way more useable.
Thanks!

Use brass or copper tubing and flare the two sides. You could even use solid brass or copper stock and make them as solid rivets. If you want, a head spinner or cup burr will make them perfect domes after peening them.
Makes perfect sense. Thanks for the tip. If my stainless chicago screws approach fails, I will surely look into this.

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
What's a good source for cup burrs?
+1
 
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