WIP:far from done

[FilmGeek913]

Just got done with a huge move,haven't been able to build anything for the past 8 months.Now I finally got enough room cleared from the bench to start something.This is my first real attempt at a knife.iv made a few others from old chainsaw bars,but finally gonna take my time and use known steel.steel is 1095,OAL about 9.5 inches,3/16 thickness,handle is bacote,will use brass pins.dont mind my crappy mock up lines and the misplaced pin locations.any critiques are greatly appreciated.thanks.
http://i1361.photobucket.com/albums...3-cb03-4fca-9355-bbb97c731ac4_zps339e5c8d.jpg

 

[Frank Niro]

Is the 9.5" overall length or just the blade? Your proportions tell me it's overall. 3/16" on say a 5" blade? Are you going to tie this on to the end of a pole and use it as a spear? I'm suggesting if you are going to do a hand job on this you should go to 1/8" steel; 5/32 if you have a belt grinder, . Your blade will need to be ground from bottom to top to establish some reasonable bevels for the primary angles. No spear or axe angle will work near good with 3/16" stock. Frank

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Well, other than the thickness issue that Frank mentioned, a rounded choil would have been better than the "V" notch. If you stay with this blank, file a complete distal taper into the blade from ricasso to tip first, then file the bevels.
The pins will be far more pleasing if they aren't in some funny pattern. Following the center of the handle is best for beginners.

Overall shape looks good. I might suggest you drop the top of the butt a bit to make the handle less fat in the butt and more comfortable to hold.

Future knives suggestion - draw the proposed shape on the bar and ask about changes before you cut it out. A wipe with acetone can remove these lines to be re-drawn....but once cut out the options for change get severely reduced.