WIP-handle thickness

R

RALPH B

Joined
Sep 17, 2012
Messages
30
What is the best handle thickness?
Should your handles be 1.5 X thickness of the blade. Is there some type of equation, or is it as simple as what ever is comfortable.
 
I've been going with whatever is comfortable for the end user (I'm a big guy, so I have others try it out...)
 
Comfort and purpose. If I'm making a gentleman's EDC, I'll typically go for a thinner handle scale for elegance and to decrease bulk. If I'm making a chopper/heavy use knife, handle retention is more important, so it will be thicker with more shape. I've even had customers ask specifically for thicker handles on my EDC when ordering knowing that they have big hands.

--nathan
 
One sign of a new maker is making extra thick brick like handles. I know because I still have some of my early knives and the handles are too thick and brick like! I like to thin things down and contour them more now. Even some of my bigger choppers will have thin handles in the grip area, with a flare out at the butt to help retention. It will be thicker than my smaller knives, but still not a chunk or brick.
 
Cardboard cutout and play dough is your friend. Seriously, don't waste your time making handles until you've tried this. You'll probably find yourself designing handle shapes a little differently too.
 
I'm a big fan of balsa wood mock ups. You can buy balsa in different thicknesses just like handle material. Stick it onto your wood blade template or even a steel blade using double sided tape. It's super easy/fast to shape so you can try different thicknesses and contouring. It also gives you experience in how exactly you go about shaping a handle.

Handle thickness just depends on the size of the knife, what the knife is designed for, and the end user. It also depends on the amount of contouring you put into it. If it's fully contoured then you need to start off with thicker stock (3/8" or so); if all you're going to do is round off the corners then thick stock won't be comfortable so you might want to start with 1/4" stock. Something to keep in mind is thicker handles limit wrist movement. If you're building a machete it's temping to make the handle bigger to match but that ends up creating a slower feeling, less maneuverable tool.
 
Last edited:
fumbler said:
I'm a big fan of balsa wood mock ups. You can buy balsa in different thicknesses just like handle material. Stick it onto your wood blade template or even a steel blade using double sided tape. It's super easy/fast to shape so you can try different thicknesses and contouring. It also gives you experience in how exactly you go about shaping a handle.

Handle thickness just depends on the size of the knife, what the knife is designed for, and the end user. It also depends on the amount of contouring you put into it. If it's fully contoured then you need to start off with thicker stock (3/8" or so); if all you're going to do is round off the corners then thick stock won't be comfortable so you might want to start with 1/4" stock. Something to keep in mind is thicker handles limit wrist movement. If you're building a machete it's temping to make the handle bigger to match but that ends up creating a slower feeling, less maneuverable tool.
Click to expand...

Paint sticks are also a free option. Paint stick knife below. One small and two large sticks.

EEE_0778_zps73eba52d.jpg
 
ERIK KNIVES said:
Paint sticks are also a free option. Paint stick knife below. One small and two large sticks.

EEE_0778_zps73eba52d.jpg
Click to expand...

I used to do that when I got bored sans the scales... it's a really good way to go get to know what you'll be making... I hadn't thought about doing the same with scales... I think the next time I do this I'll add some scales (throw some spare stain on there for good measure lol)
 
Thinner scales are more refined, usually. It's always a balance with width and design though. Thinner scales make it much easier to make a leather sheath. I think why I'm good at sheaths is cause I struggled with thick handles for a long time. Thin handes are much simpler.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top