WIP Rehandling a boyscout Hawk

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Nov 26, 2010
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Hello all,

I was going to save this till i had it finished, or leave it if it didn't work out, but a friend of mine on here wants to see it , so...hope I'm in the right forum.

I have had this Boyscout hatchet for a while now, bought it at Court Day last year as a possible re handle project because one of the scales was broken. I used it in the JK Viktim Passaround some time back as well.
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I've been trying to learn how to re-handle knives since John of JK Knives started offering blade blanks, I've done two so far a JK LRK and a BK16, both worked out well enough and were good learning experiences. With some extra time (or need for distraction more like) at the moment I decided to go ahead and start on this hatchet.

Anyhow my "method," such as it is, and my tools are "works in progress," so far this is what I have:

1. Hands..clumsy but they're here
2. Small wood files (might use them this time)
3. Sand paper from 60-400 grit
4. A Dremel (I've been using it to rough cut the scales out but I'm thinking of moving over to a coping saw)
5. Drill press, small, cheap and for light work only
6. pen
7. WD40

so, here we go,

Step one: Cleaning
The first thing to note is that this thread might take a while, I cut the heads of the handle pins about 3 months ago and only got around to doing anything else to it over the Thanksgiving weekend. Just FYI.

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I scrubbed it down with some sandpaper to clean it up a little until it looked like this.
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I also washed it with soapy water and then gave it a vinegar bath because I had read that this can help to halt and prevent rust.
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Boy scout logo
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I thought about moving up the sandpaper grit and making it all shiny but decided I liked it better this way.

I did give it a good rub down with a cloth and some WD40 before I called it ready though.

One last thing, when you spend a good few hours over a couple of days sanding off the grime on a hatchet head, then wash it in the sink, be aware that you may have inadvertently brought it to a razors edge, and that metal gets slippery when wet
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It doesn't look that bad, and it's not, but it's worse then it looks. It's one of those fine cuts that bleeds everywhere when you try to use the thumb, ho hum.

2. Planning out the scales
I chose walnut and brass because I like it, unfortunately it seemed hard to get much bigger then 6.5 inches of wood...ha ha ha, I'll let that sit with you for a while...so my original plan of having a full length handle went out the window. I did toy with the idea of using two pieces for each scale, but decided I'd better get good before I start making things complicated.
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My first issue is that even at 6.5" the wood doesn't get over the top of the last hole.
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So after some consideration I decided I needed a lanyard hole at the bottom of the hatchet, Might grind off the extra lip in the "railing," not sure yet, which brings me to the next "issue".
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The handle, unlike the blade blanks I've worked with, has a "railing" I suppose I can call it. After some heart searching - and turkey - I decided I'd made life too easy on myself so far and that I needed to mark out not only the handle contour but the railing as well.
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I made the mistake of laying the first one in the middle of the wood and not at the end (more cutting!) but since I'm stubborn I didn't change it but cut it out this way anyhow.
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My plan is to cut a rough scale that fits over the whole handle, then sand a groove into the edges so the wood sinks down into it.

This, I think, will also make it easier on my hands because a hollow handle, might, vibrate more...that's my story and I'm probably going to stick to it as long as it takes someone to correct me (at which time I will probably have known that all along...or something)

Anyway, I've cut out the scales and the are ready to be "grooved"?, but I haven't take any more pictures yet. After that I'll drill out the pin holes, glue in the brass and start sanding, so long as I've made it that far.

Thanks for checking out the thread, hope it's not too bad


Hope to be back soon,
 
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Boy, sure am glad that friend asked you post this. :rolleyes: :)

really looking forward to seeing how this gets finished up. thanks for sharing Peter.
 
Good work thus far! My question is how do you plan to secure the scales to the haft? Are you going to epoxy? I like the walnut, I would have chosen it as well.


-Xander
 
Yep, a suggestion I was given during the JK re-handle LRK thread was Gorilla glue, worked on both knives a treat, the pins get some to :)
 
Previous two attempts, thought I'd post them as well

BK16 English walnut and brass
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JK LRK walnut burl and brass (misjudged the position of the screw :confused: but otherwise It came out okay, love the grain of this wood to)
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Great thread! Very ambitious re-handle. I applaud you.

One question, the grips look a little short. Won't they cover the whole swell?
 
they don't, they are about 1/2 an inch short, i'm going to raise them up and leave a little showing, make it a lanyard hole,

i wanted to make it a full length handle, just don't have wood that length right now and I'm impatient :p

thanks for the comments!
 
A little tip, try drilling your holes first. Mark and drill one hole through both slabs, then put your pin through the hatchet and slabs to keep them aligned, then use the hatchet handle as an exact guide for the second hole in the handle slabs. No more misaligned holes that way. Also alows you to align the scales when finishing the ends before gluing.


-Xander
 
A little tip, try drilling your holes first. Mark and drill one hole through both slabs, then put your pin through the hatchet and slabs to keep them aligned, then use the hatchet handle as an exact guide for the second hole in the handle slabs. No more misaligned holes that way. Also alows you to align the scales when finishing the ends before gluing.


-Xander

good call, lucky I wasn't far enough along I couldn't back up, thanks
 
3. preparing the scales
Okay so I've found that a lamp in the barn and waiting for the wife to be engrossed in some reality show or another can net me an hour or so work work time, yay! So I'm working my hands till they go numb int he cold, for you guys, I'm a dang hero I know.
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rough cut scales
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holes
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"Landyard hole"
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grooves (1 scale done, 1 half way done it's...well it's a nasty little job free hand but I've found files over sandpaper works better)
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rounding the ends

Next I finish up the second scale and epoxy it all together, then cut of the rest of the pins and start shaping the handle...getting that far though, that's going to take a lot more night time file work.
 
Looks good. The grooves must have been a PITA to cut in. I would probably end up with a block of brass or different shade of wood for the very end of the handle.
 
Looks good. The grooves must have been a PITA to cut in. I would probably end up with a block of brass or different shade of wood for the very end of the handle.

interesting idea with the brass...ummm..for now I'm trying to keep it simple, I mess up more then enough as it is ;)
 
I would probably end up with a block of brass or different shade of wood for the very end of the handle.

I think that the handle will be uncomfortable to use if the scales aren't full length. If you want a lanyard hole (a good idea) then just drill it through the full length scales. I don't mean to be critical but I hate to see you put a lot of effort into something that you may not like when it's finished. However if you're experienced with using hatchets then maybe you already know that this style won't be a problem for you.

In any case I applaud your efforts. BTW, A dremel with a carbide burr might be useful in shaping the grooves in your scales.
 
no worries, like i said in the op though, i don't have wood long enough and the landyard hole it's just to "cover" - as it were "not cover" - the missing length.

I'm just eager to work on a project and practice the process, the original handle was also half height though, so i didn't it think of it being uncomfortable.

thanks for the thoughts though, I may have to think about it more.
 
Maybe too late now, but I would find a nice contrasting wood, like ebony or rose wood and put a spacer in the middle of the handle. On a diagonal I think it would look nice, probably the same angle as the butt of the handle. You can also take a plain wood and ebonize it with dye or india ink.

Either way, its still practice for a usable skill. Next I expect you to be searching out the Old Hickory knives at the flea market then rehandling and reshaping. That's an assignment, not a request! Lol! Everyone has to do it at least once!

-Xander
 
gottcha covered :)
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Anyway, I'm on fire this morning, you know how ti is, your not happy with the knives you have, you want seven others but you know it's trouble because you can't say for sure which one more then the rest, so I've been out at the barn trying to keep myself occupied, and I've been forgetting the camera as well, sorry for that.

As of now the scales cut, "grooved", epoxied (the cold plays merry hell with that by the way, I'd advise doing it indoors it was like trying to apply maple syrup) and now we are...

4. Shaping the Scales
i got the advice to rough up the inside of the scales a while back and it seems to work for me, I use the files more then anything to creaet 'pockets for the epoxy and scars to it to cling onto.
Shoeshine method
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A new tip from todd,, TPVT, who just did a handle mod on a BK17, I'm trying out the tape on the back of a the sandpaper trick, seems to work well
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I still think a vice is the next tool I'll put in the budget, although I'm starting to see the wisdom of a band saw as well, anyway, might be here a while, have to decide on shape, contours and things, I may play around with some other ideas to, but for now it's getting the handle into a nice decent shape, I'm starting with 80 grit sandpaper, and 120 as I get closer, then I'll move up the grits till I feel it's nice and smooth enough or I'm tired :)

At least it's warm :)
 
A new tip from todd,, TPVT, who just did a handle mod on a BK17, I'm trying out the tape on the back of a the sandpaper trick, seems to work well

awww shucks peter. am i blushing?? :o

i have an extra bench vice i think "out back." i can take a look and see if it is functional. and look into whether it is worth trying to send it to you (it's heavy). i'll shoot you an email.

keep the pics coming buddy. looking good. :thumbup:
 
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A new tip from todd,, TPVT, who just did a handle mod on a BK17, I'm trying out the tape on the back of a the sandpaper trick, seems to work well

Thanks for the tip. I have a roll of adhesive-backed neoprene from McMaster-Carr, 3/16" thick by 4" wide. It makes the most amazing sanding pads. They last almost forever. I just made up 10 new pads last week.
 
awww shucks peter. am i blushing?? :o
i have an extra bench vice i think "out back." i can take a look and see if it is functional. and look into whether it is worth trying to send it to you (it's heavy). i'll shoot you an email.
keep the pics coming buddy. looking good. :thumbup:
thanks Todd, but no worries, I couldn't see it be cheap enough to ship plus one of the reasons i haven't picked one up is that i mentioned it to my wife and realized with Christmas around the corner I might not want to pick one up in case i spoil a gift, thanks though!

Thanks for the tip. I have a roll of adhesive-backed neoprene from McMaster-Carr, 3/16" thick by 4" wide. It makes the most amazing sanding pads. They last almost forever. I just made up 10 new pads last week.
they sound awesome!
I like the idea of leaving that little bit of metal sticking out. Its a pommel and a lanyard loop!
yay, no i don't feel as crazy :) thanks
 
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