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Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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WIP Rehandling a boyscout Hawk
- Thread starter KYenglish
- Start date
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- Nov 26, 2010
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- 7,567
Stop hurrying me, I make enough mistakes as it is 
just kidding, I have one side about rounded but I still have to do the other side and maybe contouring, see how it goes, the woods coming up a nice deep rich shade though, I'll try and finish her up today, see how it goes.
just kidding, I have one side about rounded but I still have to do the other side and maybe contouring, see how it goes, the woods coming up a nice deep rich shade though, I'll try and finish her up today, see how it goes.
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2010
- Messages
- 7,567
okay so getting it done this weekend didn't work out but I'm hopful that by tomorrow it may well be finished, for now some more handle prep finds and pictures
flash was a bit off on sunday, anyway, got the back pretty much ready, playign with some contouring at the top
I've found a mixture of wide and thin stripped of tape backed sand paper works well, the narrower bands move wood quicker (might just be fevered imagination after a while of sanding but seems to make sens to me, same pressure over smaller area and all that)
The wide belts get more of the handle at once of course, but is slower, I use the narrower strips whent heres more wood to work in one area and also I let them get bigger the higher up the grit level i go
how much sand paper?
maybe a band saw is a good idea, lol, but the process is actually kind of enjoyable, like mediation when you get a rhythm going
knife for the day
flash was a bit off on sunday, anyway, got the back pretty much ready, playign with some contouring at the top
I've found a mixture of wide and thin stripped of tape backed sand paper works well, the narrower bands move wood quicker (might just be fevered imagination after a while of sanding but seems to make sens to me, same pressure over smaller area and all that)
The wide belts get more of the handle at once of course, but is slower, I use the narrower strips whent heres more wood to work in one area and also I let them get bigger the higher up the grit level i go
how much sand paper?
maybe a band saw is a good idea, lol, but the process is actually kind of enjoyable, like mediation when you get a rhythm going
knife for the day
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2010
- Messages
- 7,567
yes, sir, believe it or not he just posted it in the exchange one day and i was the lucky caller, I think he was just "playing around" while he waited for other things (like heat treats" to finish. Amazing what some people can do very well idly that would take me years to do badly.
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- Feb 14, 2012
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yes, sir, believe it or not he just posted it in the exchange one day and i was the lucky caller, I think he was just "playing around" while he waited for other things (like heat treats" to finish. Amazing what some people can do very well idly that would take me years to do badly.
lol. you and me both buddy.
back as soon as possible
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2010
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Rather than the shoe shine method, try using hard sanding blocks to take the corners down then shape with the paper as you were. When I shape a handle I start off by faceting the handle slabs, its easier for me to keep things even that way, then I blend it all together.
-Xander
-Xander
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- Nov 26, 2010
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ta daaa, or something like that
It's not perfect, but not as bad as I would have feared some slight separation at the edges because I didn't clamp well enough during the gluing stage, but it's more an esthetic problem now I smoothed it out with some wood dust and epoxy, the fit is good, the handle firm, I've put it through a few pieces of wood with no trouble.
It's not perfect, but not as bad as I would have feared some slight separation at the edges because I didn't clamp well enough during the gluing stage, but it's more an esthetic problem now I smoothed it out with some wood dust and epoxy, the fit is good, the handle firm, I've put it through a few pieces of wood with no trouble.
Square_peg
Gold Member
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- Feb 1, 2012
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Love it. The dark color fits with the vintage look of the hatchet very well. And you fitted the handles expertly.
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- Nov 26, 2010
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Thanks very much for the kind words, I appreciate it, I have a thing for walnut (as well as a few dozen others) but I think your right it does go well with the vintage look, it has a coat of linseed oil on it that died long before the picture 9fiished it last night, waited till morning to take a picture)
it's also been sanding form 60 to 100 to 150 to 220 to 320 to 400 grit, I find 400 is a nice smooth but not slippy finishing point
it's also been sanding form 60 to 100 to 150 to 220 to 320 to 400 grit, I find 400 is a nice smooth but not slippy finishing point
Love it. The dark color fits with the vintage look of the hatchet very well. And you fitted the handles expertly.
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2003
- Messages
- 20,207
Looks nice.
You are dealing with the first of several efforts by BSA to get a "Scoutproof" hand axe. I have seen broken examples of each type.
Yours appeared from 1934 to early 1941 and again from 1946-1948. So it is at least fifty-four years old and maybe fourteen years older than that.
Are you going to fire off the mushrooming of the pole?
You are dealing with the first of several efforts by BSA to get a "Scoutproof" hand axe. I have seen broken examples of each type.
Yours appeared from 1934 to early 1941 and again from 1946-1948. So it is at least fifty-four years old and maybe fourteen years older than that.
Are you going to fire off the mushrooming of the pole?