Wiring my Controller - finally. HELP

O

oldwolf

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Dec 29, 2002
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Controllerinfo.jpg
I'm finally building my heat treat oven. Got all the wiring for the controller figured out except one thing. the shematic sent to me by a nice guy named Tim ( it's been 2 years or so ) shows a switch between terminals 7,8 & 9. it says it controls the relay, but I'm not sure what that means as I thought the controller controlled the relay???? Anybody recognize these controller connections, or know who Tim is?
 
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If using a typical PID controller and an SSR (a solid state relay, as opposed to the electro-mechanical variety), w/o powering anything up just yet:

1) wire power wires to PID controller. Most use _any_ voltage, including 120V or 240V AC.

Some (very few) require dedicated 12V. Check your model

2) run 2 wires from your K-type-thermocouple to the TC input of your pid controller

3) run 2 SSR control wires from the PID controller to your SSR control input (2 terminals)

4) wire one leg of the spiral to the neutral leg of power circuit if using 120V or any of the 2 hot legs if using 240V

5) wire other leg of the power circuit to one of of the 2 power leads on the SSR

6) connect other end of the spiral to the second (remaining) power lead on the SSR

7) make sure to ground the exterior of the oven

Now turn on the power to the SSR. You'd need to run initial setup: set F or C, tell it you have an SSR, tell it you're using K-type thermocouple. Ideally, run a training cycle - it will learn the thermal dynamics of your oven. Follow your manual
 
rashid11 said:
If using a typical PID controller and an SSR (a solid state relay, as opposed to the electro-mechanical variety), w/o powering anything up just yet:

1) wire power wires to PID controller. Most use _any_ voltage, including 120V or 240V AC.

Some (very few) require dedicated 12V. Check your model

2) run 2 wires from your K-type-thermocouple to the TC input of your pid controller

3) run 2 SSR control wires from the PID controller to your SSR control input (2 terminals)

4) wire one leg of the spiral to the neutral leg of power circuit if using 120V or any of the 2 hot legs if using 240V

5) wire other leg of the power circuit to one of of the 2 power leads on the SSR

6) connect other end of the spiral to the second (remaining) power lead on the SSR

7) make sure to ground the exterior of the oven

Now turn on the power to the SSR. You'd need to run initial setup: set F or C, tell it you have an SSR, tell it you're using K-type thermocouple. Ideally, run a training cycle - it will learn the thermal dynamics of your oven. Follow your manual
Click to expand...
Hi Rashid11,
I'm using a electro-mechanical relay and 220vac.
Have 2 wires from type K thermocouple to #1 terminal.
Have 2 wires from pid to mechanical relay.
Basically I'm wired as shown on the picture shown, just not sure what the dpst switch does.
I didn't get much of a manual with the pid. Part of the problem, I guess.
 
It is a switch to kill the legs of 220 power to the PID and ssr. It takes the 220 inputs and and shuts them off and on. I did this. I also added a push button sw to one of the wires to the relay coil ( I actually used a SSR) Then set it up so when I opened the door it killed the power to the elements. You could do it with a simple spst toggle also. If you hit a blade to a live element you might not like it.

Btw do you mean you have the wires from the thermocouple to terminal #1 and #2?
 
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ib2v4u said:
It is a switch to kill the legs of 220 power to the PID and ssr. It takes the 220 inputs and and shuts them off and on. I did this. I also added a push button sw to one of the wires to the relay coil ( I actually used a SSR) Then set it up so when I opened the door it killed the power to the elements. You could do it with a simple spst toggle also. If you hit a blade to a live element you might not like it.

Btw do you mean you have the wires from the thermocouple to terminal #1 and #2?
Click to expand...
ib2v4u, Ah thanks,:D that answers my question. Yes, the thermocouple wires are on #1 & #2. Typo. That switch to the door sounds like a great addition. I'll do it. Sure will be nice to get this Oven working. I procrastinated for more than 2 years with most of the parts just sitting there.
 
spring for an SSR and ditch that mechanical relay. few bux well spent.
The power switch - be careful with it. You don't want it to power up the
oven the second you flip it on or have it shutdown live oven. Problem being -
the switch will have to establish or break quite a few amps of current and
will burn out before you know it.

Do install a switch that senses when the door is open.

This way, when u are about to HT stuff, with everything disconnected
and turned off:

- open the door (kills the coil)
- hookup the power
- establish (key in) the temp you want on the SSR
- the coil will go live when you close that door
 
The door switch has little power across it as it only turns on the relay coil or the SSR, Will last forever. The dpst sw across the power legs needs to be a 220v 30 amp switch. I Turn mine on when I am ready to go as with door open it powers up only the pid. When I close the door and the door switch closes the element is then powered. But my power switch is heavy enough I could flip it with elements powered up no problem. I agree that an SSR is far supperior to a relay and will last longer, never have the contacts weld shut, and you will have better control. Jim
 
I plan on replacing the mechanical relay as soon as possible.

ib2v4u , Do you have a diagram for the ssr door switch? I know I'm lazy and it's been about 20 years since I was active in electronics.

Ken
 
Well you have 2 wires going to the SSR control. Either one of those can have the push swithch. On your diagram the line from PID terminal 9 would do it or the line from the power at terminal 12 to SSR terminal A2 (hard to read). You just need to break the voltage path that turns the SSR on. My SSR only breaks one line of the voltage to the elements. My element power goes from one leg ofthe sw to an element. then the other leg of the 220 switch goes to a power lug on the SSR and then the other lug of the scr goes to the opposite end of the element.

See here
http://www.auberins.com/SSR Series-RS1A.pdf
 
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